wannabeMJ

well its up and running I also ordered my ajustable track bar from motion offroad great place to buy stuff Adam is a nice guy to talk to will post more soon and maybe a video of the engine running .......

now it starts tanks all

well I'm a idiot :doh: what's the main difference between an electrical pump and a mechanical pump the power that goes to it ........... where does the power come from ...... the ECU where does the ECU take the power..... the ignition switch what is the only part that I kept from the comanche ......... the steering column I just bought the cherokee ignition switch and guess what ......I got power :thwak:

just found that on the net http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/ecu-help-1694/ will give it a try and see

how can I tell if I got power to the cpu?

TY eagle will look in to that tommorow but what you said seems right and if my memory isn't f*cking with me that's what it looks like

lolll forgot that part 90 cherokee I did the swap unplug and plug that's it BY the way I just redid my battery wire 1 going to the starter 1 going to the power relay 1 ground to engine mount/frame 1 power relay to alt could that have messed it up? seems all good acording to the HAYNES

ok found them fuze link they are all good anything else?

not sure where it is would that still allow the truck to crank ?

nobody ?? I'm going nuts here trying to find the prob :fs1: I also found out there is a lot more things with no power........ no whipers no heater motor plz I need hints or info :hmm:

http://www.google.ca/images?hl=fr&sourc ... =&gs_rfai= go there youll see just pick one and do your calculation

well I tried to start the truck and I got no power to the fuel pump started checking the wires and they are fine I also check the fuel pump (jumped it) worked fine also then I went to the fuel relay (ceramic thingy on the fender) and it read 1.1 homs as suppose then I check the power to the 2 or/bk that go there and I got nothing I also check many wires at the XJ/MJ connections and I got nothing coming out of there could it be the computer is fried??? 86 MJ 4.0L AX15 I followed the XJ/MJ wirring to the letter I'm sure its fine the battery is good to how can I check the comp..

could it be only an air leak in the line???? (crack line) wouldn't leak much and would create loss of pressure

yeah keep that 35 and if you got a spear for it beat the crap out of it and just change the parts you broke after then you will also know how bad you are wheeling your rig if you don't wheel to hardcore you might not need a much bigger diff and keep swaping 35's there cheap and easy to find lollll until you find the exact diff your looking for instead of having your truck on blocks

I run 2 44 FSJ under my YJ and both are locked dunno about an MJ 44 with a locker I'm sure someone can input on that but many 8.25 or 8.8 came with lockers posi-lock I think or some like that I for myself swears by hydrolock (detroit) and full spool in the front some peps realy like the air lockers for the choice of front or rear or both loked

the main prob with the 44 is the availability its not that its a bad axle most peps do the conversion to the 8.8 for the disc brakes (they still brake when full of mud) and its still ''minor fab'' to get one under your truck if your looking for a 44 from an MJ its like you trying to date megan fox: unlikely to happen espacialy with the right gear ratio if you find one you'll have to change the gearing and then its $$$$ so a lot easyer and cheaper to go for a 8.8

first congrats on the cheap comanche 2nd go see photobucket.com for your pics and the horn shourd be in the midle of the steering wheel where you bash when your pissed at the guy in front of you mouhahahahaha seriously driver side just behind the bumper

I've just put 4.5" on my MJ and mine sits level did you go with the full leaf pack or just the add a leaf?

What do you mean about the clinch-type spring clips? Could you show me a picture? The leaves creek a lot when taking off at any speed because the springs have about an inch before contacting the bolt and clamp. Is this what you are referring to? If so how can I eliminate this creeking? This seems like it would contribute to a ton of axle wrap if any power not unless your are spring over Are you? is put to the ground and thus straining the U-joints due to pinion angle, can this be remided? couldn't go on photobucket from work but does your leafs have some like that on but both sides http://www.truckspring.com/Images/Leaf% ... 50_tab.jpg is that what's squeaking on yours

I went to start the beast up and its a no go the fuel pump don't work well it does cuz I jumped it and it worked so Ill have to go back to check the wirring and the XJ to rear MJ harness post that I just printed out to do

ho yeah and the windshield is going on next week ......

flux is good for no gaz in fact that's what you should use (if no gaz) go to your local hardware store for your welding stuff (here its canadian tire lolll) and just buy a roll of .20 gage flux wire with the tips for the welding machine cuz just a low and high setting doesn't leave you much room of play a smaller wire will also allow you to run more power because .35 gage you will have to be on low setting

update for this weekend: finish the rear brake -95 dakota flex line 41$ finish upgrade fore the cluster change -oil sending unit 30$ -thermostat housing 16$ -new temp sending unit?? still waiting on my new door handle bought on EBAY and cut the damn grass if it stop raining outside that should be it for saturday ........

some of you know that I did the 4.0L swap in my 86 comanche now I just received my thermostat housing with the temp unit hole so I wanna relocate it from the back of the block to eventualy run an electrical fan setup Q's : can I reuse the same temp unit form the block ? if so what do I use to plug that hole? ( just a cut bolt?) if not Ive read that after market sending unit are not the best ........ go with a mopar one? comment and input plz!!!!!

just make sure you use low gage wire on your mig or with gaz that will help to I'm running .35 gage on my mig but its made to weld thick metal ( 3/16" or 1/4") but with gaz still manage to do sheet metal but if you go to .20 wire you should be fine without gaz on it