ParadiseMJ

...and the seal only costs ~$15

Not quite true. If you didn't have intermittent wipers from the factory, you'll also need to change the multifunction switch that the stalk plugs into. It has an extra wire for wiper delay function to the module. And of course you'll need the delay stalk too. So noted, I didn't think of that. But shouldn't the harness itself have the connection to the MFS (if, in fact, it's there)? I didn't really know...but I know the two ends of the harness can be plugged into each other and work as regular wipers. Seems Jeep would have made it available on all models, especially since mine is a pretty base model. It's got wiring for things it doesn't have.

You should be able to just sit in the driver's seat and put both hands behind/under the dash...right under the coulmn. About 3"x3". Like so: Also, just try to see if the connector is there. You may be able to pop a control in there.

Either your rig did not come with the option (if it WAS an option) or your intermittent control is 1.) toast or 2.) missing. It is possible to remove the intermittent control and just plug the two sides of the harness in to each other. If you want to see if that's the case, reach down under the dash, right at the steering column between your knees and look for the little black box. It's velco'd there with a harness plug on each side. If it's there, the control is probably toasted. I got mine used at the JY ($2), I also see them occasionaly on ebay for ~$10-15. Edit: if the 2 plugs are plugged in to each other, you can buy a intermittent control box and *poof* you got intermittent wipers.

Have you taken the driver's side tail light out and checked the rear harness ground that shares the fuel pump? Has that been covered here?

I've seen those and they look feasible (and alot easier) plus they have nice looong perches. If you go that route post up your results and ease (or difficulty) of installation. I was thinking of using these too. It seems like it'd be musch easier to set angles as well.

The pressure in my XJ has always run high, mechanical gauge, stock gauge, say the same. At or just below mid point at idle, halfway twixt half and pegged at 60 mph. My MJ runs lower, both run Castrol Full Synthetic 10w30. Rotella's fine but the synthetic worked so well in the XJ I swapped over all my vehicles. I was told a NAPA Gold is a WIX filter, you're good there. XJ, MJ, Ranger, Camry

Before you spend money on the fix for this, valves, hoses, fittings, consider converting to an open cooling set-up. It's lower maintenence, works better, no special fittings and parts are plentiful and there's no %#$^@$ pressure bottle to replace every 5K miles. Converting your rig to an open system with a new radiator, hoses, cap will cost right about $200. I've done this on both my 90 XJ and my 88 MJ. I've completely deleted the heater valve and 6 or 8 hose connections (leak opportunities) and have no issue with it interfering with the A/C or causing any problems what so ever.

I had a mouse...evidenced by mouse poo AND the insulation, sticks and cardboard bits stuffed in my housing...set a trap...caught the mouse but I have yet to clean out the ducts, blower etc. It was a farm truck before I got it and was sitting in the guys barn. Mice are industrious little buggers.

The donor shifter came apart fairly easy with a vise and a crowbar. Like a pickle fork with more leverage. After I got that one apart, the other one was easier to rig up. I have a different shifter extension to put back on. Good to go.

:grrrr:

I guess my "brute" isn't. Still looking for answers. There has to be a "way", all I wana do is change out the boots.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/how- ... up-652142/

So, my 88 (4.0, BA 10, 231) is endowed with a nice BA10/5 tranny. I also have an AW4 waiting deployment...BUT...until I get the rest of the parts for the AW4 I have to use the Peugot. I know how the shifter goes in and out. My problem is dismantling the shifter ITSELF. The shifter boot is toast, as are the other pieces on the shifter. To remove the old toasted boot and put on the shiny new (junkyard) boot and related parts I need to separate the bottom part of the shifter from the uppr part. It's held in place inside the fat part of the shifter with a rubber piece with what looks like a pressure clip surrounding it. I have searched and Googled, FSM'd, Chilton, Haynes etc. and NOBODY even mentions how to replace the lower boot. It can't slide over from the top or the bottom unless that fat part in the middle is removed. Anyone have a photo or advice on how to get that piece off?? I'm stumped.

It's ~5/16 OR Metric equivalent...square key. Same size as the block coolant drain. You can either find the right size or grind down a hex head to fit.

Do you have spark at the plug? Do you have fuel (at the injector, not the tank)? What does "we were able to get feedback when the ignition from the key" mean?

Sorry, it's already gone

This week I was able to get the tarp off of it and do some little stuff that's been bugging me. Got the bed bolted down, solid. Fixed top vents on fuel tank Finally got the wipers working - everything works there, pump, intermittent etc. all good Headlights, blinkers, tailights & markers now working. Fixed and/or replaced ALL vacuum lines. New (old ones off my XJ) wheels on the BFG's + spacers (1.5") Paperwork to DMV - still NON-OP

Done! I had bolted the piece that attaches the motor to the arms at a complete 180. :dunno: I had to remove the motor assembly with the plug attached, run the wipers, turn off the key to access the nut and flip the little bar around (180). Turn the ignition back on, motor in hand and turn the wipers off at the stalk so they came to the park position, then position the little bar, bolt it up. I seem to remember CWLongshot say something about keeping track of the position when doing the bushing change. :shake: Memory ain't what it used to be.

No. If I just removed the arms and put them in the desired parked position, when I turned them on they would try to rotate downward and jam into the bezel. I'm thinking I have the mechanism (not the motor) installed backwards, ergo the :dunce: . It would not be the first time (or the second) I have done something bonehead like this. I gonna go out and try to fix it right now.

OK, so I finally got these wipers working. I believe it may have been a voltage problem since my battery has just been sitting for weeks. Any hoo, the wipers work BUT they work exactly backwards. In other words, they go back and forth fine, they work on all speeds of the intermittent mode, they work when I just flip it to wash mode on the stick. However, when I turn the wipers OFF at the stalk, they revert to straight up instead of parallel with the bottom of the windshield. I'm assuming that I have the hook-up AT the motor backwards!! :dunce: It looked good when I put it back together but...Any feedback??

Start by climbing underneath (in driveway with engine off) and have an assistant turn the wheel back and forth. Push and pull on steering components, look for looseness, play in steering components. That's a start. I spend long hours under my Jeep(s) just looking around, grabbing parts, and seeing if anything's about to fall off It's the only place I can go where my wife knows not to bug me

Start by climbing underneath (in driveway with engine off) and have an assistant turn the wheel back and forth. Push and pull on steering components, look for looseness, play in steering components. That's a start.

Looking on the shelf at gear lube I notice that some of the containers say LS, for Limited Slip Differentials. Can I trust the pre-mix or should I just buy regular gear lube and add the friction modifier myself? D44 LSD

I painted the flares on my XJ with Fusion...3 years ago. They still look great. Use the satin finish, not the gloss. Follow instructions (old plastic ~ wipe with ammonia, new plastic ~ wipe with mineral spirits.) Can't be beat on plastic IMHO.