ParadiseMJ

Yes. Park works. Goes in, comes out. I can shift it through all the gears (just nothing happens). But I thought it looked out of place inside the bell housing. If I root around in there a bit more I'd likely find more pieces. The actual sound that was going on just before it stopped was indeed like running a piece of steel along a spring. I was grasping at straws and hoping to not have to pull the tranny at all...weekend coming. Thanks. If there are anymore ideas out there, feasible or not, I'm up for hearing them.

Bump for pic. Above

Good point. I found the snap ring that fell out the bell housing. It's about 1/2" diam. I'd send a picture, but I'm on my phone...at a concert, my wife is giving me "put the phone down" look. Here's a picture of the ring. Anyone got an idea of where this could have come from...within the bell housing area??

I'm betting you're right. I could have sworn I worked through the gears to see if I was getting anything...but I AM kind of an old geezer...so I'll check it again. Doesn't matter if it's running in gear or not...it ain't goin' nowhere. ...and hornbrod, I watched that video. How the hell does that guy keep track of all the parts and pieces, that would make me crazy, I'd lose a bolt or come out with leftovers. I'm a little more meticulous than that (and MUCH slower).

I would not think it overheated (I don't have a trans temp gauge on this one) since as I said, the fluid all came out looking brand new and in no way smelled burnt. The filter was not clogged and I made as sure as I could that there were no obstructions in the lines. So who can tell me/show me where the trans pump is, and if it's fixable...by me ? I've removed and swapped trannys before, but never gotten inside. Also, usually when I do a drain & fill I only get 4 qts out. Maybe a little less actually. This time I got 6 qts. (??). None of it is coolant either since the tranny lines don't go through the radiator.

My truck has had a stroke I think. I have it up on jack stands, nothing is moving, spinning, clunking or making strange noises. No shafts spinning, no 4wd, no rwd. T-case is in 2 wd. Engine starts right up, runs strong, gear shift works flawlessly, no binding, clunking etc. The tranny is a 92 AW4. The front wheels don't work either. The CAD is locked over, checked and rechecked, locked over. Yes, I suppose so, although I don't know why they would strip out. So, today I pulled the hose to the trans cooler, wondering if my pump was working. started it up, thinking I'd have to turn it right off or suffer a huge spurt of trans fluid...never happened. Then I started it up and let it run for awhile...no fluid out the hose, not even a drip. I pulled the trans pan expecting a pile of metal, or at least metal shavings, or a clogged line...fluid, pan, magnets, tranny lines, nothing. I disconnected all the lines, dipstick tube, cooler and blew them out with compressed air. I pulled the inspection cover on the bell housing and it was spotless...except for two halves of a metal "o-ring" about 1/4". Other than that everything looks brand new. The t-case and tranny fluid looks new. The filter isn't clogged, there are no big chunks (or even small chunks) of metal anywhere inside the 2 boxes. Can anyone tell me what my next step should be in troubleshooting this thing?? I'm suspecting the trans fluid pump...since no fluid is moving through it...I could use a "how to" on replacing the pump. Anyone think otherwise??

I've drained the t-case, checked the fluid and chain (to some extent). Fluid, cherry red, chain seems tight and continuous, Drained the trans., Fluid is pink, not burned or smelly. No chunks...pulling the filter tomorrow and checking the pump function. Read up on the Torque Converter. Looks like a possibility, since it feels like the TC isn't working. The troubleshooting section (for what it's worth) says a "spinning or whining sound" is one symptom of a failing TC or scored gears. Anyone know how the gears (spline) could even GET stripped or scored as the clearance is pretty tight there. They just spin together normally. Any input welcome. As I said, I drove it, parked it, went to leave from work, 2 hours later and got NO engagement. I also recant my testimony that it rolls in ALL gears...all but Park. Thanks

Did you take out the flashers? Are there flashers in your fuse block? The round relays... swap the emergency flasher with the turn signal flasher and see if that solves the problem.

I suppose it could be anything at this point, I have not had a minute of daylight to look at anything. It's my "ON" week. My OFF week starts on Friday. Then I'll have lots of time to climb into and under it. # 1 is to look into the trans (inspection plate) and the t-case (thru the fill hole #2 Drain the boxes and see if there is a bunch of metal in there. Yes, I'll have it up on stands this weekend. I can find a donor AW4 easily enough...I would just rather not do all that goddam work The font on my end is showing up tiny.

I haven't looked at that yet, I will. The front does not pull either in any 4WD position. The CAD's been locked over since the first week I got it (if that matters) 5+ yrs ago.

IF...the t-case chain broke...or came off, would the truck just essentially be in Neutral. I ask, because that is exactly what it feels like...and sounded like. It rolls in all gears. Even Park. I am looking for a welcome surprise.

No leaks, dry on the outside, Full on the inside. I've had a tranny line blow off on my XJ and I drove it, unknowingly, for a good couple miles. I filled it up and all was good, still is. 300K on that one. I have yet to pull the inspection plate...wondering if my flex plate is intact.

Good Morning, Drove my truck to work today, 25 miles, no problems. Around noon I went across town to pick up some stuff, about 6 miles round trip. Just before I got back to work, there was a "whirrrrr" sound, kind of like a spool of wire, under tension, unwinding quickly. The next 1/4 mile pulling in to work the truck was bucking, like slipping in and out of gear (Aw4). Then it was fine, so I went in to work. Come out to go home, truck starts right up, runs smooth, put it in reverse and ... nuthin'. Won't move, except to coast out of the parking spot. Put it in drive, nuthin'...won't move at all. Feeling like I had the t-case in neutral. I checked the t-case linkage, good. I removed the t-case linkage, shifted it by hand, all good. Checked the tranny fluid, full and cherry red, good. Checked all the drive line u-joints, all tight. The dang truck just wouldn't move. So I rode the "flatbed of shame" (AAA) home and had him slide it off at my shop. There it sits. Any ideas??

I never did really measure anything, I just traced the door jamb, and trimmed the template, and fit it, and trimmed again. BUT since you asked, I went out and measured it. So the top is 1 3/4" The bottom is 2 1/4" The measurement from top to bottom is 5 1/2". The little jog towards the top just follows the contour of the door jamb, so it takes some cutting & grinding to get it just right. An angle grinder with a cut off wheel, and another with a flap wheel really made it about a 15 minute job after I made the cardboard template. The hole in the middle is 1", A hole saw with a metal blade (aka hack saw) comes in handy too. Deciding on rivets over sheet metal screws took about 4 hours :hmm:

One day I tried to close my door...it wouldn't close or latch. So I started investigating, and found this: So, after thinking about welding, taking it to a body shop, etc. etc. I decided on this. After I fished the striker out of the body B-pillar panel, I made a template out of cardstock, then cut out a piece of 16 ga. sheet metal. I marked the striker position and drilled a large hole...about 1" IIRC...with a hole saw ( I thought there needed to be a big hole so I could move the striker around, to adjust it). I flattened out the area where the striker goes and fitted up the sheet metal piece. Then I drilled some holes for pop rivets, you could use sheet metal screws too, but I had 2 sizes of rivets and 2 rivet guns, this is how it looked then. So then I slid the striker in there, and adjusted it to the door latch. See the wiggle room in this shot: So then I got it adjusted, touched up the paint and it's been like this for 2+ years I was really surprised how easy it was to fix. I was very concerned that I'd need to spend a buttload of $$. But it worked out fine, and nobody can see it, nobody knows it's there but me (and all of you now) Good luck however you decide to go.

Try lowering it a little...I know it sounds counter-intuitive...but sometimes it works.

I swapped in an AW4 for a BA/10, I had to get the whole wiring harness from the donor...I had two wires that I could not find a home for. They turned out being sensor grounds which are packed into the harness with a crimp and some kind of weird factory glue/paste. I was getting no spark and a very minimal reading at the CPS. I did the "sensor ground upgrade" mentioned in Cruisers tips. BAM, fired right up (after literally MONTHS of messing with it).

You can: 1. On my XJ I used a piece of plastic hose and epoxied it in the vacant hole...six years ago...still there, still passing smog, in California. 2. Jump on ebay and search "Jeep XJ airbox". 3. If smog inspections are not a big deal where you are, you can just tack on a Spectra style intake on there for about $30. Looks cool too. The cold air intakes might solve your problem but won't add much in the performance area...so, IMHO not worth the money when you could solve it by getting a little creative and repairing the existing box.

If the noise was coming from my right rear axle, I'd be looking around the entire right rear area. What's there. Your brakes, your drive shaft (and slip yoke) u-joints, and your exhaust pipe. I've had my exhaust pipe rubbing on my cross member before, it made a weird vibration and clunking sound. When I fixed the tranny mount and hangers, it went away. The pipe is now at least an inch away from contacting any other parts. I've had a bad u-joint, all it did was clunk when I took off or when slowing down. Looked OK at first, but when I got down there and gave it a workout with a small pry bar. It was obvious. Your throwout (bearing?) or carrier. To me that sounds unlikely. Then again the sound could be coming from your tranny or t-case. But if you're convinced it's in the right rear, give those things a look.

Well, I got it figured out. The bumper bracket indeed fits nicely on the inside (inboared) of the hitch. I was trying to fit the bumper inboard too. But the bumper mounting holes go out board of the bracket, then it just slides on. I was trying to fight it on there with the "L" on the inside. All I had to do is push the bracket asisde so the bumper bracing went to the outside withe "L" facing to the outside. Now all I have to do is get down in the mud and bolt it up. I just had to sleep on it. Thanks.

At first I thought I could do it by just swapping sides, if I mounted the brackets on the outboard sides, but unless I missed something, it wouldn't have fit the Fey mounting holes, without maybe a spacer or a long bolt, or both. The actual problem is not so much the inside/outside part, but more the clearance of the hitch side plates, and the way they angle down to the cross member of the hitch...it seems that if I cut a slot in the bottom of the bumper to accommodate bumper to slide into position. The other option I see is to leave the center bolt in the mount, with all the others out, pivot the mount up, attach the bumper and then pivot the mount back down and secure it. The bumper mounts and the hitch are very solid otherwise.

Hey Mattman6, I'm having the same kind of problem. I only decided to cut off about 1/2 of the "L" off, I got the hitch on through the shackle bolt and the three mounting bolts. I installed the bumper brackets INSIDE the hitch, because the mounts on the bumper are 45" at the outside, if I put the bumper mounts on the OUTSIDE of the hitch, the mounts on the bumper are 46".+. ??!! So, how did you make it work to get the bumper on??

The plastic nipples deteriorate with exposure to fuel and time. Also, the valves are a two piece design...so once you stick it in, and then try to pull it out, the bottom pops off and falls into the tank...at least mine did. So if you're searching junkyards for pristine valves, be real careful when you're trying to pull it out of the tank.

When I swapped in my AW4 my rear shaft was 1.75" too long. I had the local drive line shop shorten it, check it for balance and put in my new u-joints for $45...they even painted it. Took a day. YMMV. I thought that was pretty quick and easy

The rollover/vent valves are just a ball in a cylinder, They're there to vent the fumes into the EVAP can ... and ...if the truck goes upside down fuel doesn't pour out the vents. Mine were toast, because the plastic tops/nipples had disintegrated. I got the whole valve(s) at the Jeep dealer with grommets included for $25 a pop. Put them in and install the vacuum lines while the tank is out...I found this out the hard way. :doh: