btipsword1

92 4.0 AW4 lifted 7" on 35s. Factory 3:55 gearing gives me about 5-8 mpg :) - I should note, I literally got on here this morning to look at gearing info and came across this thread first

Thanks Pete, appreciate the response!

I'm in the process of SOA and am running an 8.25 rear end. I have weld on shock mounts for the axle, seems pretty straight forward.. What is the reasoning for everyone wanting to relocate the upper factory shock mount? It looks to me like I could just weld the new ones on the backside of the axle and both shocks to the factory upper mounts without any issues.. Just curious what the reasoning for everyone moving them is.. ?

Thanks dude, looks good!

What did you do for the front driveshaft?

I'd be interested in any of the above as long as it's not the cheap material that shrinks after the first time I wear it and the sleeves never fit anymore, dammit!

My garage still smells like penetrating oil from how much I used for disassembly for my lift 3-4 weeks ago! haha

Method double standard. 15x8 3.5" backspacing

Looks hilarious with no lift in the rear

Got a bit done on the manche. Replaced the shot driveshaft u-joints, replaced basically everything in the front end, and got most of the front end lift done.

OTC kit came in today, had it out under under 5 minutes and it was pretty rusted I'm sure you can tell from the photos. Thanks for the help guys

Thanks guys, I ended up getting the OTC kit for $70 or so. Hoping it does the job, I'll report back when I get to it.

Thanks 87 warrior but the uppers are no problem. The passenger lower is the issue, and it gets pressed down

I'm redoing basically the whole front end, first time doing ball joints. Uppers came out as they were supposed to. When I got I the passenger side lower though I came across this... Have you guys run into the same problem? I'm considering cutting a square out of my ball joint press adapter cup but I'm worried it will greatly compromise the cup's strength and may not do the job... thoughts?

Eagle, That's the best I've heard it described. I looked through several articles and it never really clicked, but after reading that I completely understand their purpose now. Simply put, I'm lifting it because I want to. Thanks again Eagle and everyone else for the help, I appreciate it

Thanks for the replies guys, please enlighten me on bumpstops. I am under the impression the factory "bump stop" is the dried up piece of crap where the top of the springs sit? Assuming the purpose of this is to contact the lower spring seat when fully compressed for several reasons, but why would you need hockey puck, or any other method at the lower spring seat as well as the upper? I plan on just getting the daystar upper replacement, but don't want to make any big mistakes. Like i posted earlier, I will likely not be taking this offroad often or on anything difficult, I live in Illinois it's hard to even find a damn hill! If i put an extended stop on the upper spring seat area, won't this make it more difficult to shoehorn my 4.5" coils in there as well?

Hey guys, so I am in the process of rebuilding the front end on my 89, and also adding a 4.5" lift and staying SUA in rear. I have several questions... 1. Is there a trick to getting the lower ball joints out? I got the tops out no problem. I got the driver's side lower to move about 1/8th of an inch but then seized up again, and I cannot seem to find a cup adapter to fit the passenger lower, there seems to be a flange that sticks out just enough to not be able to get a cup between the ball joint base and that flange on the bottom side, I'm guessing this has been seen before? Maybe I'm missing something, this is my first time at ball joints, and I'm using an el cheapo Harbor Freight press 2. I had only planned on doing a minimal amount of replacements parts up front (track bar, Lower control arms, steering stabilizer, and extended quick disconnects) but after I got under there and started wrenching, I decided it would be wise to just replace most of the remaining components. So as of now, I am looking for the drag link and tie rod, complete with the steering adjuster sleeve and tie rod ends where needed. My question is 1. Do I need to go beefy with the replacements I purchase? In all reality this will be a very mild off roader, if any at all. and 2. Do these items typically come with hardware? In a quick search I found a moog tie rod and drag link for around $130 or so for the pair. - not sure if these come with tie rod ends or not. 3. Since I'm basically gutting the suspension components I went ahead and removed both lower control arms, sway bar links, everything but the track bar. When I did the axle moved rearward and down obviously. I took this opportunity to remove stock coil springs as they almost fell out anyway. I went to test fit the Passenger side lift spring, and realized how far off the axle is now. I tried to then jack the passenger side axle upward to make room on the drivers side for the new lift spring as well, but didn't have much luck. I didn't try at this very long, it was toward the end of the day, but it got me wondering if it would be best to just remove the trackbar and upper control arms and reposition the axle where it needs to be, then easily install my drivers lift spring and the rest of the components and jack the axle up into place? The only other alternatives I could think of were to use a ratchet strap to get my axle back forward to where it needs to be, then use a floor jack on the passenger side again to try and make room on the drivers side for the spring, or do some variation of that, and buy a coil spring compressor for that side? I'm sure I'm missing something, and I apologize if this is worded terribly. My first go around at any suspension work, but I would like to do it myself.

I would bedline first... If you bedline it, then decide to paint and tape off the bedliner for a "line" and the adhesive from said tape takes some off with it, you're not out much.. the other way around.. you could be out a lot.. I painted cars for years and this has happened to me :doh:

Hahaha that's good

Hey guys, figured I'd introduce my MJ to everyone. My first truck was an 86 LWB 2.5 2x4 that I loved. Sold that truck while I was in college and have regretted it ever since. I recently picked up an 89 LWB 4.0 4x4 5 spd. Had it shipped from East Tennessee all the way to central Illinois! The body is rust free, underside is pretty good as well, I couldn't pass up on it. I work a lot of long hours, and my wife and I are also remodeling our home, so this build will not be going anywhere fast, but where there's a will there's a way. As of now, plans are: 4.5" lift (zone possibly?) probably staying SUA 32s possibly 33s 8.25 Replacing the stereo system completely (nothing works) - done Added new 4x6 kicker in rear, 5 1/4 kicker up front, clarion HU and a Bazooka 6.5" amplified sub (fits perfect behind my bench seat all the way back, and is way too loud for me!) JCR Rear bumper A lot of random maintenance Realized I had rear blinkers, but nothing up front. - No power to front signal sockets, replaced sockets, voila! - don't let the pictures fool you, the clear is peeling off of the paint basically everywhere. - I used to paint cars for a living so this may or may not get addressed soon (my wife really, really wants me to paint it now, I think she's a bit embarassed, haha) -My photos seem to be HUGE on the screen, apologies, I will get better at this! Pictures from the seller the day before purchase Safe and sound at home in her resting place The mighty D35 (haha) Repainted the front trim- grill, headlight buckets, bumper etc. before after

Brave soul to drive that XJ an hour to your house!

What's up with the paint over the JEEP logo on the tailgate? did I miss something in this thread?

I like it, this reminds me a lot of my truck. What is the max height on the jack stands everyone is using? I just ordered an extra set, not paying much attention and they only go to about 17".. haven't tried them yet, but seems short to me.. Post more pictures, I love seeing new comanche projects on here!

Really like your build, good work!