Green Mesa XJ

It's a southern thing, you wouldn't understand. ;)Was going to say something about the southern thing :) But then I saw you've got a earth mover now I'm jealous! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

It's a 2 wheel drive transmission if your other MJ is as well then it will work. Curious parking ... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I've done the 8.8 swap on my 85 XJ, I used the original proportioning valve, just removed a o-ring from it, since then people seem to say leave the o-ring alone and it works fine. Not sure what the wisdom on this is now, I did my swap in 2004. If your trying to keep some of the original MJ features (load sensing, leveling?) I'd leave the original proportioning valve as it is. But I'm no expert on it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Sounds like that transmission is done. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Yes, ask them to disconnect not cut the lines. I've got a WJ booster and lines to convert one of my jeeps (whichever needs it first) , the WJ has a flexible line, but I think it needs the flare fitting swapped. Last time I made brake lines it sucked so I haven't been in a rush to tackle this job. Cruiser54 did you have to bend the lip on the firewall? Some say they didn't have to and some say they did, I know bending that lip out would bug me . Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

For the booster upgrade you'll need the master cylinder and booster from any WJ 99-04, getting them pulled together gets gets you the bolts and spacers if they are there. If they pull it for you ask to get all the bolts, understandably the guy pulling the parts don't care about saving bolts . IMO the harder parts are making the new brake lines but that's partly because I suck at it. Here's a video in converting a 1989 XJ Here is somebody that did the 95/96 XJ booster upgrade (which might be slightly easier,) http://comancheclub.com/topic/39437-1996-xj-dual-diaphragm-brake-booster-conversion/ Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

There was a Subaru once that made a weird ticking noise, I thought was just the clutch, apparently the transmission was all kinds of broken from what I was told but that's a different kind of transmission too. I definitely would check the clutch and bearings before swapping Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Nice list! I tried looking it up once at the only numbers I found were after Chrysler took over Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Ax4 (4speed) & ax5 (5speed) are the same except for fifth gear, as long as both transmissions are the same, 4 wheel drive or two wheel drive, they should swap no problem. Just use the transfer case and driveshaft in your long bed. (If both have the same transfer case as well only the drive shaft really matters ) The transmissions are the same far as case size and dimensions. Far as ticking it could be the clutch, but I've also seen transmissions make ticking sound like you describe and be broken. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

No bearings in the outer housing just a usually plastic ring meant to (sort of) keep mud and sticks out of the housing . Usually those plastic rings just unclip or slide off the axel shaft. I did have one XJ with metal there instead of plastic. You can get aftermarket seals to put there that are pretty good. BTW if you have grease leaking out of the axel shafts you'll need to fix the seals in the pumpkin housing but that's another job with tons of how to videos Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

95 XJ also. I agree, replace it with the dual diaphragm booster of your choice. Don't just get a stock replacement, now is a good chance to upgrade. The 99-04 WJ booster requires the firewall lip to be bent out of the way (for me a deal breaker) but is easier in other ways. For a 1987 truck, both the 95-96 XJ and 99-04 WJ boosters will need the pushrod modified. There are a number of excellent writeups on swapping both the XJ and WJ boosters. you're right it's 95-95 on the booster master combo. I forget since so much of the 96 is 96 only. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

The Innova 3140 scan tool kit can read OBD I jeeps, comes with an adapter to fit the computer plug in the engine bay. However the 1991 HO light to check the O2 sensor can not be reset by this scan tool. Had to be a Chrysler tool to reset that specific light. Supposedly 92 and later can be reset by hand scanners but no idea if that's true. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Found the timer box in a 1986 XJ 2.8 engine harness I put in my old XJ, the old harness didn't have a "timer" so I thought it was strange. Four wires running to a circuit is all it is, no idea why the 2.8 has a timer because as far as I can tell the 84-86 carbureted federal emission XJ/MJ do not have oxygen sensors . The California emissions 2.8 XJ have a crude computer and oxygen sensors. Found photos of that timer from when I swapped the harness. For what it's worth I had a old VW built right in the beginning of all these federal emissions regulations that had a mileage timer placed in the speedometer line between the cluster and the firewall (also didn't have oxygen sensors since it had no computer, mechanical fuel injection). The counter was on the outside of the firewall and VW made a small speedometer cable from the cluster to the box. Thing is this system sucked, the freaky little counter box broke and the speedometer in the car never read accurately again. No replacement parts cause it was one year only. Only a few VWs imported and converted to met federal regulations had this counter, most I found in junk yards were already broken. For all of AMC & jeeps short coming they were always easier to source parts for than that VW . Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Or a 1996 XJ booster and master (1996 XJ only, 1997 -2001 is different) . WJ is easier to source both parts. Far as the booster you have now you'd better replace it after having brake fluid leak on it. Never had a booster last for long after that. Which is way so many recommend upgrading the booster and master to one that is dual diaphragm like the later year jeeps have. It's a good upgrade, probably the most difficult part for a novice will be making the brake line to mate the the original portioning valve and new master cylinder. Easiest fix is new master booster combo that fits your year. But it's 20 year old parts so your brake lines going to the master may break before they bust lose. If they do You'll have to repair those lines anyway so might as well upgrade the booster. Just depends what you're comfortable with. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

The Aisin manual transmissions are easy to tell by the middle bracket holding the two halves of the case together. Here is a picture somebody else posted on the differences between Peugeot and AX15 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Looks like a cheap kit, doesn't mean it won't work for years. If you old compressor were still working you can convert it, I've worked converting on dozens of cars in the late 90s. If your lines are ok this kit should work. If you've got a leak in the lines or evaporator you'd need to replace it first. BTW There's a $20 off $100 coupon for eBay just being released this afternoon, eBay coupon for the 4th holiday , not sure if automotive parts are exempted or not. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

That was on a 1986 wagoneer limited, 2.8 automatic, select trac , leather seats, plastic wood dash panel, Got a bunch of parts off it. Thinking back I should of tried to buy it off them. It was the last old jeep (84-86 hell 87-93) I've seen in a junk yard and that was around 2004 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Someone told me to access the CPS from the engine bay by removing the air cleaner box and hoses, he said it's easier to access it this way. I've never tried it, always used the socket extension and swivel joint route. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Basically it's just a clock on 99.9% of XJ & MJ. There was one version of the xj that had little lights in that panel for some sort of crude diagnostic computer would flash up a warning light if fluids need changing . Or something like that, I have only ever seen one on a 1986 wagoneer in a junk yard. There was one other clock in the mid 90s that had a place for bulbs like on the side of the instrument cluster where it has 4x4 and low washer fluid indicators, but I've never seen one of those clock actually have any bulbs or things to indicate, but maybe there's a XJ out there with one that does do something. http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoDashClock.htm To me replacing the clock with something useful sounds like a better idea. BTW sometimes the plug for the clock is behind or underneath the cluster so it can be a pain to get at. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

If you're doing that upgrade that would be the time to get ac installed. Those under dash ac should work in almost any application. But if your going to upgrade to 97+ I'd go for factory ac. For years I wanted my 85 XJ to have ac, it's a high altitude jeep from out west with no ac. Just in the past year do to necessity I've up graded the engine and dash harness to one that actually has ac, now I'm thinking why bother. That and the v6 isn't that great robbing it of power probably isn't a good idea. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Um, for these jeep unless somebody has a good kit I don't know about it's a real pain to get ac. You need the HvAC dash box and brackets as mention but also the dash and engine harness too. For whatever reason these jeep were wired ac and non ac, while other upgraded can be plug and play this one is not. Under dash ac can be pretty universal so that may work. Sad thing is wranglers have kits to add ac to them, XJ/mj don't. Mostly because of how the wiring harness is. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Some 84-86 with that weird full time 4x4, don't remember what number it was predates the 242 and had a vacuum switch in the center console to engaged the transfer case front wheel drive. It was a non CAD axel . Anyway that axel on the pic looks right from what I can see but don't know if I'd tell the differences with out a side by side comparison. Edit : it was the early select track option the NP229 transfer case http://comancheclub.com/topic/9198-vacuum-actuator-on-1991-front-axle/ Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

For the carbureted XJ/MJ plunking a carbureted chevy ought to be straight forward once the oil pan and engine mounts are sorted. I believe there is a adapter to fit the ax-15 to chevy small block. I like the idea of a 318 too. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Awesome build! Wish I had thought of it years ago didn't think about 318 or 360 fitting in that engine bay since a 4.0 was difficult. Had a 318 until a few years ago I could of used. Btw for the 2.8 aside from being a fairly weak engine, clogged cats and bad transmissions / clutch can rob any remaining power. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Just thinking here, would there be any benefit to a 2.5 swap? Same bolt pattern for transmission. don't know if I've ever heard of anybody doing this so it's probably not a good idea. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro