cruiser54

Gotta love acronyms, eh?

Ditch that POS and do a clean job of wiring the connectors. That resistor was there ONLY because of customer complaints regarding fuel pump noise. That's it.

easily checked.

1/32" will be fine. You want it to have teentsy bit of clearance.

Booster rod was too short. You can measure it yourself.

I learned that lesson the hard way many years ago.

There is a critical measurement between the booster pushrod and the master cylinder. booster rod.pdf

When was the fluid last changed? If you don't know, do a drain and fill. Requires a gallon of Dex/MercIII fluid available at Wally World.

This will help with your overloaded ignition switch circuit. Very common. CRUISER'S MOSTLY RENIX TIPS IMPROVING BLOWER MOTOR PERFORMANCE NOVEMBER 28, 2015 CRUISER54 28 COMMENTS EDIT On 1984 to 1990 MJs and XJs, the blower motor’s factory grounding point is on the driver side inner fender under the sheet metal screw. This ground is shared with windshield wipers, front windshield washers, rear windshield washers, AC clutch relay, fan control relay, fog lamps, fan motor, headlamps, front turn signals, front side markers, and park lamps. So your blower motor has its ground point 10 feet away from where it is located!! What we’re going to do is leave that ground intact and also ground the blower motor on the passenger side inner fender much closer to the blower motor itself. This will also benefit the other components on the factory ground circuit. Take this opportunity to refresh the factory ground as a matter of course. Remove the screw, scrape the surface to bare metal and reinstall the screw securely. Here’s what I do to get the ground much closer to the blower motor and add another ground point to this overloaded ground circuit. Find the blower motor connector on the passenger side. Red and Black two wire connector. Find a location where the black wire can be made to reach the passenger side inner fender, and cut the wire. You may have to do some rerouting of the harness to achieve this. Take both cut pieces of wire and put them together into a yellow eyelet and crimp. Fasten the eyelet to a place on the passenger side inner fender with a sheet metal screw after applying OxGard to the contact surfaces. Be sure to scrape the attaching point on the fender to bare metal first. Your blower motor will now turn faster and last longer, and the other electrical components on the circuit will benefit from a better ground path.

Worth a try for diagnostics anyway.

Yes.

Leave it alone!! You came real close to doing a big job unnecessarily as it is.

Can we now summarize this? Dex/Merc in the AW4. NOT ATF+4!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Dex/Merc in the transfer case. Okay to use synthetic or ATF+4 in it. Why bother with the more expensive +4?

Auto trans? Harmonic balancer failing?

Breather lines for trans and transfer case. Held on by the uppermost trans to engine bolt on passenger side.

too bad you couldn't pick up a used 2.5 and have it rebuilt locally.

I didn't notice a year in your post. Still on my first cup of coffee. If it's a 90 or earlier, check out my website. www.cruiser54.com.

That's the photo I posted right outta the gate!! buy a gallon. Walmart, Napa carry it.

That's a good philosophy. Most transmissions have filters, and it's critical to change them. The AW4 has a metal screen. Nowhere in any factory literature will you find a recommended interval for changing it except at trans overhaul.

Just do a drain and fill with Dex/Merc III. The fluid in that trans is worn out.

stick with non-synthetic.

You're welcome.

The transmission was designed with no "filter". That's a metal screen in there to keep debris out of the valve body in case of catastrophic failure. DO NOT remove the pan. Factory interval was a drain and fill every 30,000 miles under normal service. 15,000 miles for taxi, lots of towing, etc.