cruiser54

Fusible links like these on the solenoid/relay.

There MAY be a little metal cap over that torx screw. If so, remove it by hitting it off center with a punch and hammer. Easy does it. Then unplug the IAC at idle. Slowly turn the screw counter clockwise and bring the idle up.

Okay, now we're going into forbidden territory.

who knows anymore?

Yup. Then the coolant loss would no longer be "unexplained".

Great, and expected. How are your gauges working? differently at all?

distributor needs to be indexed. Tip 13

Got a NAPA?

FYI, I have a copy of the AMC engineer's hand written parts list to put an AMC V8 into an Eagle.

Here's how to keep from dropping the CPS during removal and installation. Electrical tape in the socket.

Remind us which Tips you have completed on my site.

I would begin by going to my website and completing Tips 1 through 5. and Tip 13 for sure. VERY unlikely a burned valve. Likely a sticky lifter. Put a half quart of Marvel Mystery Oil in the crankcase. Also, if you expect a sticky lifter on start up, do this: Shut the engine off for a minute and restart. How does it sound after that? Let us know.

.5 is great. More wouldn't hurt I guess.

Pressurize the system and diagnose the leak.

buy locally.

4WD? Disconnect the front driveshaft at the transfer case to get more room.

Have you tried drilling out one mounting hole to bring the CPS you currently have closer to the flexplate?

I have trailer envy now.

Here's the water pump leak on one of mine years ago. You can hope it's the clamp. Yes, it's sometimes hard to diagnose over the interwebs. How about a cooling system pressure check and a stethoscope for the noise? Are the 2 problems related? Maybe. Maybe not. Could be a loose hose clamp. Water pump leaking. Water pump leaking and noisy. Water pump leaking and harmonic balancer making the noise. Alternator bearings going out and a coolant leak. Idler bearing going out with a coolant leak.

Isn't that what we saw in the photo? The leak? Get a water pump. Once the belt is off to do the replacement, spin $#!& that the belt turns.

Typical water pump leak. Replace it. Pressurize the system at the Mac's tank and check for additional leaks. I surely wouldn't be going down the "compression test" rabbit hole at this time.

The rail bolts are fine. Those are steel bolts in aluminum. There is a chemical reaction between the dissimilar metals. Hence the POP. And just for fun, here's the injector wiring diagram

What else do you need?

I've had the same tool for over 40 years. Mine is Blue Point. I'm sure this one is not. https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-20656A-Flaring-Aluminum-Blow-Molded/dp/B00170SZOK/?tag=drive09e6-20&asc_source=browser&asc_refurl=https://www.thedrive.com/reviews/37992/brake-line-flaring-tool