cruiser54

Before you tackle the rear main seal, you might replace the valve cover gasket with a good one, if you haven't done so already. A leak in the valve cover can be confused sometimes with a leak of the rear main as the oil runs down the back of the block. Good luck! Absolutely correct. Here is my typical response to suspected rMS leaks: I'd be looking up above first. A leak at the back of the valve cover could produce the same symptoms. Don't jump on the RMS/oil pan gasket bandwagon just yet. Almost any oil leak on your 4.0 is gonna drip from the RMS area for 2 simple reasons. First off, the engine sits nose-up and oil will run back to that area. Secondly, the RMS area is also the lowest point on the engine. Simple physics and the old plumber's adage apply here. "$hit flows downhill". Valve cover gasket, oil pressure sending unit, oil filter adapter seals and distributor gasket have to be eliminated as possibilities first. Revised 3-23-2012

MJCARENA, there's a compilation of almost all my write-ups pertaining to Renix Jeeps at www.jeepseekers.com under the Help and Resources tab. Any questions or comments, post 'em up.

You need to do some testing. Some symptoms can be caused by different component failures. If I were you, I would start with testing the CPS per the following instructions. Renix CPS Testing and Adjusting Renix CPSs have to put out a strong enough signal to the ECU so that it will provide spark. Most tests for the CPS suggest checking it for an ohms value. This is unreliable and can cause some wasted time and aggravation in your diagnosis of a no-start issue as the CPS will test good when in fact it is bad. The problem with the ohms test is you can have the correct amount of resistance through the CPS but it isn’t generating enough voltage to trigger the ECU to provide spark. Unplug the harness connector from the CPS. Using your voltmeter set on AC volts and probing both wires in the connector going to the CPS, crank the engine over. It won’t start with the CPS disconnected. You should get a reading of .5 AC volts. If you are down in the .35 AC volts range or lower on your meter reading, you can have intermittent crank/no-start conditions from your Renix Jeep. Some NEW CPSs (from the big box parts stores) have registered only .2 AC volts while reading the proper resistance!! That’s a definite no-start condition. Best to buy your CPS from Napa or the dealer. Sometimes on a manual transmission equipped Renix Jeep there is an accumulation of debris on the tip of the CPS. It’s worn off clutch material and since the CPS is a magnet, the metal sticks to the tip of the CPS causing a reduced voltage signal. You MAY get by with cleaning the tip of the CPS off. A little trick for increasing the output of your CPS is to drill out it’s mounting holes with the first drill bit that just won’t fit through the original holes. Then, when mounting it, hold the CPS down as close to the flywheel as you can while tightening the bolts. Revised 11-29-2011 Then, I would perform this procedure just to eliminate it as a possibility: Renix Jeep ICU/Coil contact refreshing The contacts between the coil and the ICU on your Renix Jeep can become corroded and loose causing a complete or intermittent no-start condition. I recommend the following procedure as a maintenance precaution to insure this is eliminated as a possible cause now and in the future. The coil is attached to the ICU by two T20 Torx bolts. Remove these two bolts and lift the coil up off the ICU. You will see 2 pins and 2 sets of contacts. Clean both the pins and springy contact pieces with a good electronics cleaner. Squeeze the springy contacts closer together with some needlenose pliers. Apply some dielectric grease to the contacts and bolt the coil back on to the ICU. While you’re right there unplug the connectors from the ICU and inspect the pins in the harness connector. Make sure the pins are not retracted into the connector. Spray out the connector and the receptacle of the ICU with the same good electronics cleaner you used earlier. Apply dielectric grease to the connectors and plug them back in. I feel this procedure should be performed at least once in the lifetime of a Renix Jeep. Revised 11-29-2011

The fuel pump is probably not suspect then? Thank you for the replies Hate to seem like a butthead, but we need more info: From Joe Peters and well stated. Sounds harsh but just makes sense: “Let’s play a game. You pretend that you are the only one that knows what year/engine, etc that you are asking about. We will all pretend you never asked a question until you provide at least the bare minimum of information about your vehicle”.

The fuel pump is probably not suspect then? Thank you for the replies Hate to seem like a butthead, but we need more info: From Joe Peters and well stated. Sounds harsh but just makes sense: “Let’s play a game. You pretend that you are the only one that knows what year/engine, etc that you are asking about. We will all pretend you never asked a question until you provide at least the bare minimum of information about your vehicle”.

First off, what year is your Comanche and what engine and trans does it have?

Yes, but I should think the dizzy being able to shake laterally and maybe smacking the block would cause the rotor to have issues making the correct contacts/spinning properly. Uh, yeah!! Just wondering if the dizzy's indexing got screwed up if someone had already sawed off the tab. Could you do me a favor? Lsmurphy has a website and is currently posting all my write-ups on it. Could you see how well they open up for you? I'm having issues but I think it's because I'm the author and Word goes nuts when I try to open them. They're under Help and Resources http://jeepseekers.com/ Tab is still there, bolt just worked loose and was on the last thread :P Site works great on my iPhone at least. Awesome resource cruiser! Cheers Dave Glad to hear the site worked well for you. I sent him 3 or 4 more write-ups this morning. Did you see the wiring diagrams he has on there? Extremely handy. Glad to hear your Jeep is running well again BTW.

Yes, but I should think the dizzy being able to shake laterally and maybe smacking the block would cause the rotor to have issues making the correct contacts/spinning properly. Uh, yeah!! Just wondering if the dizzy's indexing got screwed up if someone had already sawed off the tab. Could you do me a favor? Lsmurphy has a website and is currently posting all my write-ups on it. Could you see how well they open up for you? I'm having issues but I think it's because I'm the author and Word goes nuts when I try to open them. They're under Help and Resources http://jeepseekers.com/

Dizzy still has the tang on it so it can't rotate?

Somewhere around there.

There are 3 o-rings to replace. Extremely easy and straightforward. The dealership sells the o-rings separately, not in a kit like the later Jeeps. IIRC, 9/16 or 5/8 socket on a long ratchet and loosen the center bolt. I didn't torque any of the 3 I've done. You're just compressing an o-ring. A good pull with your forearm strength will be fine.

I can relate to the beer part for sure.

I wonder what the hose looks like in your fuel pump module. The one between the pump itself and the mounting flange. But, before that, I'd check how good the ground is at the fuel pump module plug under the Jeep.

Check the connections at the fuel pump ballast resistor on the driver's side inner fender near the air cleaner. Even run a jumper across the terminals for testing purposes if you feel like it.

Probably oughta be thinking about a headlamp harness upgrade to take the load off your switch. Brighter headlights are an added bonus.

Did you get my emails regarding jeepseekers?

So is there a Fram on there now?

Driver's side.

I'd try this first: Improving the Instrument Panel Ground The ground point for the complete instrument cluster on your XJ or MJ is located up under the driver’s side dash. If you lay on your back and look up under there with a flashlight, without wearing a hat, you will see a black wire attached to a shiny piece of metal almost directly above the hood release knob. The screw will have either a ¼” or 5/16” head on it. This ground point is responsible for handling the ground circuit for the following items: Dome lamps, Seatbelt and key warning, trans comfort switch, wiper switch, headlamp switch and delay module, fog lamp switch, cargo lamp switch, all instrument panel grounds and illumination, power windows and door locks, cruise control dump valve, and a few more things. The problem is that where the ground point is located does not have a good contact with the chassis where the ground should be. The solution is simple. Make up a jumper wire with #10 gauge wire about 10” long. On one end, crimp on a ¼” round wire terminal. On the other end, crimp on a 3/8” round wire terminal. Remove the screw from the existing ground wire and attach the small terminal of your jumper so that the original wire and your new jumper share the same attaching point, one over the other. Look above the driver’s side plastic kick panel just forward of the top of the hood release knob. You will see an 8mm stud there. Attach the large terminal end there with a washer and nut over it tightened securely. **Special note for Comanche owners: Make your jumper wire 12” long and attach it on the driver’s side kick panel close to the fusebox on the 8mm stud.** Revised 11-29-2011

This^^.

You're on the right track. Fuel pressure test is definitely in order.

Get a mechanic's stethoscope or use a wooden dowel/large screwdriver to put on the suspected noisemaker. Put your ear to the other end of whatever you use. Be careful of spinning pulleys and belts.

No problem on a Renix as I remember.

Since you have an 88: Renix Jeep C101 Connector Refreshing The C101 connector on 1987 and 1988 Renix Jeeps was a source of electrical resistance when the vehicles were new. So much so that the factory eliminated this connector in the 1989 and 1990 models. The factory recommended cleaning this connector to insure the proper voltage and ground signals between the ECU and the fuel injection sensors. We can only imagine how this connector has become a larger source of voltage loss and increased resistance over a period of almost 25 years. The C101 connector needs to be cleaned at least once in the lifetime of your vehicle. Chances are it’s never been done before. Almost every critical signal between the engine sensors, injectors, and the ECU travel the path through the C101. The C101 is located on the driver’s side firewall above and behind the brake booster. It is held together with a single bolt in it’s center. To get the connectors apart, simply remove the bolt and pull the halves apart. You will find the connector is packed with a black tar like substance which has hardened over time. Take a pocket screwdriver or the like and scrape out all the tar crap you can. Follow up by spraying out both connector halves with brake cleaner and then swabbing out the remainder of the tar. Repeat this procedure until the tar is totally removed. This may require 3 or more repetitions. Wipe out the connectors after spraying with a soft cloth. If you have a small pick or dental tool tweak the female connectors on the one side so they grab the pins on the opposite side a bit tighter. Apply a true dielectric grease, not the stuff that came with your brake pads, to the connection and bolt it back together. Revised 11-29-2011

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