cruiser54

That does seem odd that they didn't just tell you.

Tighten the track bar bracket where it mounts to the frame while you're down there. They don't look loose, but the bolts can be. Process of elimination and this is a known issue.

They don't go back that far is why it's unrecognized. They had a build sheet for my 90 MJ but not for my 88 XJ. Nothing to sweat over.

And all along i've been thinking the Frams only stunk on Jeeps....

Test your CPS per the following instructions. Even test it when cold and post up your results. Better to test hot though. Renix CPS Testing and Adjusting Renix CPSs have to put out a strong enough signal to the ECU so that it will provide spark. Most tests for the CPS suggest checking it for an ohms value. This is unreliable and can cause some wasted time and aggravation in your diagnosis of a no-start issue as the CPS will test good when in fact it is bad. The problem with the ohms test is you can have the correct amount of resistance through the CPS but it isn’t generating enough voltage to trigger the ECU to provide spark. Unplug the harness connector from the CPS. Using your voltmeter set on AC volts and probing both wires in the connector going to the CPS, crank the engine over. It won’t start with the CPS disconnected. You should get a reading of .5 AC volts. If you are down in the .35 AC volts range or lower on your meter reading, you can have intermittent crank/no-start conditions from your Renix Jeep. Some NEW CPSs (from the big box parts stores) have registered only .2 AC volts while reading the proper resistance!! That’s a definite no-start condition. Best to buy your CPS from Napa or the dealer. Sometimes on a manual transmission equipped Renix Jeep there is an accumulation of debris on the tip of the CPS. It’s worn off clutch material and since the CPS is a magnet, the metal sticks to the tip of the CPS causing a reduced voltage signal. You MAY get by with cleaning the tip of the CPS off. A little trick for increasing the output of your CPS is to drill out it’s mounting holes with the first drill bit that just won’t fit through the original holes. Then, when mounting it, hold the CPS down as close to the flywheel as you can while tightening the bolts. Revised 11-29-2011

www.jeepstrokers.com is your friend.

Test your CPS cold and get the numbers posted up here. It would be nice to get a reading when it's warmed up and not starting but I'll bet the cold test might tell us something. Renix CPS Testing and Adjusting Renix CPSs have to put out a strong enough signal to the ECU so that it will provide spark. Most tests for the CPS suggest checking it for an ohms value. This is unreliable and can cause some wasted time and aggravation in your diagnosis of a no-start issue as the CPS will test good when in fact it is bad. The problem with the ohms test is you can have the correct amount of resistance through the CPS but it isn’t generating enough voltage to trigger the ECU to provide spark. Unplug the harness connector from the CPS. Using your voltmeter set on AC volts and probing both wires in the connector going to the CPS, crank the engine over. It won’t start with the CPS disconnected. You should get a reading of .5 AC volts. If you are down in the .35 AC volts range or lower on your meter reading, you can have intermittent crank/no-start conditions from your Renix Jeep. Some NEW CPSs (from the big box parts stores) have registered only .2 AC volts while reading the proper resistance!! That’s a definite no-start condition. Best to buy your CPS from Napa or the dealer. Sometimes on a manual transmission equipped Renix Jeep there is an accumulation of debris on the tip of the CPS. It’s worn off clutch material and since the CPS is a magnet, the metal sticks to the tip of the CPS causing a reduced voltage signal. You MAY get by with cleaning the tip of the CPS off. A little trick for increasing the output of your CPS is to drill out it’s mounting holes with the first drill bit that just won’t fit through the original holes. Then, when mounting it, hold the CPS down as close to the flywheel as you can while tightening the bolts. Revised 11-29-2011

Biggest players, in order are MAP sensor, CTS, and IAT. They share the same ground circuit. Try this. Only takes a minute. Cruiser’s Renix Sensor Ground Test Set your meter to measure Ohms. Be sure the key is in the OFF position. Using the positive (red) lead of your ohmmeter, probe the B terminal of the flat 3 wire connector of the TPS . The letters are embossed on the connector itself. Touch the black lead of your meter to the negative battery post. Wiggle the wiring harness where it runs parallel to the valve cover and also near the MAP sensor mounted on the firewall. If you have an 87 or 88 with the C101 connector mounted on the firewall above the brake booster, wiggle it, too. You want to see as close to 0 ohms of resistance as possible. And when wiggling the harnesses/connectors the resistance value should stay low. If there is a variance in the values when wiggling the wires, you have a poor crimp/connection in the wiring harness or a poor ground at the engine dipstick tube stud. On 87 and 88 models, you could have a poor connection at the C101 connector as well. Revised 05/03/2012

How bad is it? Just happen? Factory had some pooely jigged front axles about that time. The right side would have excessive negative camber. Solution was adjustable ball joints.

See if the engine to trans bolts are loose causing them to move independently and away from your Crank Position Sensor.

http://snowboard247.blogspot.com/2005/0 ... -info.html

Gears/axles from an auto trans MJ would be a good step to take. Better yet, some 4.10s out of a 4 cylinder MJ. Bored TB from http://www.strokedjeep.com, have a headpipe made that eliminates the "crush" in the stock one, High altitude CPS, free flowing exhaust system. Do you have one of the bored TB? Did it come with a new butterfly? Did you have to modify the intake opening? Gaskets any different? Noticeable difference at what rpm's, mpg, more acceleration etc. ? Bolts right on with a new gasket. Has big butterfly. Adjust your TPS and go. Spunkier acceleration. No loss of MPG after you play with it alot on the first tank full of gas. Manifold bore is already 60mm. Interesting, huh?

No new pressure plate?

Gears/axles from an auto trans MJ would be a good step to take. Better yet, some 4.10s out of a 4 cylinder MJ. Bored TB from www.strokedjeep.com, have a headpipe made that eliminates the "crush" in the stock one, High altitude CPS, free flowing exhaust system.

The factory had issues with the original hose between the cylinders until 1991 IIRC. They were made for Castrol GT LMA as the cylinders were British. Even with the correct fluid, and worse if not, the inside of the hose deteriorated and introduced a white abrasive crap into the system. So, you could replace a leaking master and soon after you were replacing the slave, but then the new master didn't last long. Factory solution was to replace master, slave, and hose all at the same time. IIRC, the factory switch suppliers later on for replacement cylinders to Japanese which were fine.

Carb cleaner, propane, water are all fine as are a host of others.

The factory has issues from 84 to 86 with the clutch line deteriorating from inside out. The crud that came from inside the line got into the new clutch master and slave cylinders causing premature failure of the replacements. The policy becam replace both cylinders and the line at the same time.

What are VREF wires? And why haven't you checked out the sensor ground circuit as suggested? Takes 2 minutes. Ever think that sensor values would be all over the place if they had bad grounds?

Are you replacing the hose between the master and slave?

I think the name of the lace-on cover is Wheelskins. I've used them with excellent results.

Pete's right. Is your truck stick or auto? If you're dying to do bolt-on engine mods I can help you out a bit.

0.3ohms well there are three wires red, black, grey... black has 0.3 ohms to ground red carries 12v during initial key on grey wire i called sync.... when truck running voltage readings in prev post above. Your oxygen sensor is working fine if you see fluctuatations from 4.9 down to .2 or so, especially if it's rapid. Have you done the sensor ground test yet?

What are you calling the "sync wire"? 3 ohms is alot of resistance in the ground circuit for the sensors BTW.

Well, we know it's not the sockets then. And no, the side markers don't blink in 1987. IIRC, that started in 89 or 90. You did unplug and replug in that connector for the turn signal switch at the base of the steering column?

Just an FYI regarding sensor testing. I don't think that's your problem at this point but it takes 20 seconds to check. The CPS ohm test is not reliable at all. This is way more definitive: Renix CPS Testing and Adjusting Renix CPSs have to put out a strong enough signal to the ECU so that it will provide spark. Most tests for the CPS suggest checking it for an ohms value. This is unreliable and can cause some wasted time and aggravation in your diagnosis of a no-start issue as the CPS will test good when in fact it is bad. The problem with the ohms test is you can have the correct amount of resistance through the CPS but it isn’t generating enough voltage to trigger the ECU to provide spark. Unplug the harness connector from the CPS. Using your voltmeter set on AC volts and probing both wires in the connector going to the CPS, crank the engine over. It won’t start with the CPS disconnected. You should get a reading of .5 AC volts. If you are down in the .35 AC volts range or lower on your meter reading, you can have intermittent crank/no-start conditions from your Renix Jeep. Some NEW CPSs (from the big box parts stores) have registered only .2 AC volts while reading the proper resistance!! That’s a definite no-start condition. Best to buy your CPS from Napa or the dealer. Sometimes on a manual transmission equipped Renix Jeep there is an accumulation of debris on the tip of the CPS. It’s worn off clutch material and since the CPS is a magnet, the metal sticks to the tip of the CPS causing a reduced voltage signal. You MAY get by with cleaning the tip of the CPS off. A little trick for increasing the output of your CPS is to drill out it’s mounting holes with the first drill bit that just won’t fit through the original holes. Then, when mounting it, hold the CPS down as close to the flywheel as you can while tightening the bolts. Revised 11-29-2011