cruiser54

I'm with you.

Here it is.

Have/had one on my white MJ. Leaks at a seam. I may get it fixed but I'm preparing to convert all my Renix Jeeps to the filler in the upper hose.

From Jon Kelley aka 5-90 @ www.kelleyswip.com This is a known issue. 1) Unless you're going to get silly with the skinny pedal, 2xSAE8 screws on one side won't be a huge problem. You'd be better off with three, but if you don't get silly you'll be okeh. 2) The Brown Dog engine mounts use two or three additional holes on each side, and spread the mount/clamping force over more of the block. This is invariably a good idea, and I'll probably be doing it as I refit my 88. 3) The primary reason that the screws snap is because, sometimes, the screw holes in the block aren't drilled & tapped deeply enough. This causes the screw to bottom out in the hole, so you end up torquing against the bottom of the hole instead of stretching the screw (as you're supposed to do. Not your fault - you aren't doing anything wrong.) The screw is not stretched properly, and the head is not butted up against the bracket, so there's some room to move there. Vibration then causes wear cycles on the screw, which generally leads to rupture. The easy/cheap fix? When you replace the screws (3/8"-16x1.25", as I recall,) put two flat washers under the head before you screw it into the hole. The check? Take a feeler gage (.003" to .005") and try to slide it under the head of the screw. You'll be able to get under the corners (look at the hex head, and you'll see that the surfaces curve toward each other slightly) if it's a standard hex head - if it's a flanged hex head, you should not be able to get under the head anywhere. If you can slip the gage under the head, you have a problem. If you can touch the shank of the screw, you have a big problem! In no case should you reuse the screws after you take them out - they'll be stressed under the head, and you'll have a significant reduction in strength. Replace them outright, putting washers under the head as I mentioned before. The washers will make up for the slight lack of depth in the hole (two of them will be about 0.125" or so,) and allow the screw to be preloaded properly.

I ordered a coupla sets for the hell of it. But I noticed something yesterday. The green Comanche has original door seals and it's quieter than my wife's 88 XJ with 97 seals. My MJ has had the A pillar seals caulked very neatly so air can't get around them.

No sealant. Soapy water maybe.

Renix pressure bottles, Jeep heater control valves.........I'm done with plastic. You know why the parts stores have the plastic ones on hand???? Because they fail alot.

The glass guy did both in under 10 minutes.

I saw the plastic ones the parts stores offer. I'm on a "no plastic" binge regarding my cooling system though...

When I do the job, I'll take photos and provide part numbers. Coolant recovery bottle that fits nicely would be a good find.

I ordered 2 of the Moroso 63745 filler necks from amazon a minute ago. I tried slipping an upper radiator hose on a 1.5" fitting and it just won't go. The selection of 1.25 inline filler necks sucks. Moroso or plastic. No plastic for me....and it stands taller than the Moroso.

I think progress is being made!!!

We're working on a dimension that will work. There is no factory dimension. In theory, that stop screw is just that, to keep the butterfly from gouging the throttle bore. Mcgowan came up with the .003" clearance. Please try it and let us know.

I'm curious about the clearance between the butterfly and housing. How did you come up with yours?

Thanks guys!!

You went with a later radiator with a filler on it? The 2 Jeeps I've got with the pressure bottles have newish radiators.....Hence my curiosity about the filler neck in the upper hose.

As the title asks, I'm interested in the results and/or pitfalls. I am so done with plastic bottles!! The upper hose is 1.25" inner diameter except where it bells out to 1.5" at the thermostat housing, , so I can choose which filler I want to use. Clearance issues? Photos? I'm thinking a recovery bottle can go over where the crappy plastic bottle and it's mounting is now. __________________

I noticed I had a typo in my last post, to date I have not touched the butterfly even though I said I had. I don't own any feeler gauges at the moment, but I can own a set here soon. 0.003, is that how open I want my butterfly to be? It has been a joy chasing this mystery down (thats thick with sarcasm). Although the one good thing is I have become very familiar with mulitple systems of my jeep I otherwise would have ignored. Education is a journey.........

That's open rather far. Got a set of feeler gauges that go down to .003"?

Possibly. Inspect the connectors/pins at the MAP. Of my Tips listed below in my signature, which ones have you completed?

I'll try this sometime.

That's the axle crap.

Here's how. http://comancheclub.com/topic/17377-cad-fix-1/

That could be all the front axle disconnect stuff, which can be eliminated.

He's at 24......