cruiser54

And, shift it the correct way: Here's how the factory suggests you shift the transfer case and I've been doing this since these things were new and I worked at the dealership. Quoted from the owner's manual. The suggestions in CAPS are mine. "To engage, shift the transfer case lever from 2H to 4H while the vehicle is moving at any legal speed". I LET OFF THE GAS, THROW THE LEVER, TAP THE GAS AND LET OFF. 4L position: " To engage, slow the vehicle to 2-3 MPH , shift the transmission to Neutral, then shift the transfer lever to the right and pull firmly rearward to 4L". TO SHIFT OUT OF 4L, SHIFT THE TRANSMISSION INTO NEUTRAL WITH THE VEHICLE STOPPED, SHIFT THE TRANSFER CASE LEVER TO 2H, THEN THE TRANS TO D IF YOU HAVE AN AUTOMATIC, OR INTO FIRST GEAR WITH A MANUAL, AND CONTINUE ON. Revised 11/20/2014

Or, with the key on, unplug the harness from the switch and jumper across the harness terminals.

Check out Tip 18 at www.cruiser54.com.

A shop will be totally lost and it's nothing major. Save your money.

Unplug the 2 wire plug on the alternator while checking for a draw and see what happens.

So you have the late model electronics on it? The reason I ask is the 88 CPS is flat and has only 2 wires.

I guess I need to emphasize that in my #3 Tip: Connector Refreshing. Thanks for starting this thread.

My life takes funny twists and turns. After reading this thread, I was driving my white MJ for the first time in months. My son and daughter-in-law have been hogging it as a second vehicle. Serviced it and went to the store for some adult beverages. I'd forgotten about the intermittent half second stutter/hiccup that would randomly occur. Happened about 4 times in a 12 mile trip. Brought it home and put it back into the garage. I decided to check the fuel pump ballast resistor connections. They were greenish and corroded so I proceeded to remove them, clean them, and put a dab of OxGard on the connectors before plugging things back together. Drove it 50 miles yesterday without a hiccup..................

Fuse first.

I'm parting out two 93 XJs. I'll have a look when the boosters come out.

This^^.

Glad to hear it's fixed. I'd love to find a reliable test procedure for the ICU/Coil.

Another "Aw s&$t" is the rotation of the water pump. Did you eyeball the new pump's impeller against the old one to make sure they are the same (reverse rotation)? Some Jeep models use the same pump with standard rotation. Yep. I'm sure this doesn't apply here, but I have seen a regular rotation fan (for v belts), installed on a CJ7 with a serpentine (reverse rotation) motor. CJs with California emissions had serpentine/reverse rotation setups on the old 258. Got bit by that one once.

Still has the crayon mark on the valve cover. I remember those.

Yowza. Always seems to get broken in the injector replacement process. Seen my new Tip on that at www.cruiser54.com?

Refresh my memory. Had you done Tip 3, coil and ICU connector refreshing already?

Firewall mod and rod mod. Photobucket won't let me load the other photos up. Go to my Technical Photos link for more.

are they the bubble flare on the master cylinder side and regular flare on the distribution block side? Metric bubble glare at both ends IIRC. You have to re-flare the end for the prop valve and use sAE fittings.

99 to 2004 Grand Cherokee. Firewall needs a bit of work but nothing bad. Be sure to get the lines which exit the master cylinder.

I was referring to the comprehension of closed versus open and recovery versus pressure bottle. I know YOU understand that. As for the daughter's BF, I have been doing that kind of thing for decades. I am a patient teacher. Sometimes it seems though, that we need to stop and look at what we're dealing with. Threads get cluttered and off on rabbit trails. Paradise put it all together for everyone.

Is this that difficult to comprehend?

That duct tape is factory. See Tip 5 and 6 at www.cruiser54.com. Only have a C101 connector in 87 and 88.

And shift them like this: Here's how the factory suggests you shift the transfer case and I've been doing this since these things were new and I worked at the dealership. Quoted from the owner's manual. The suggestions in CAPS are mine. "To engage, shift the transfer case lever from 2H to 4H while the vehicle is moving at any legal speed". I LET OFF THE GAS, THROW THE LEVER, TAP THE GAS AND LET OFF. 4L position: " To engage, slow the vehicle to 2-3 MPH , shift the transmission to Neutral, then shift the transfer lever to the right and pull firmly rearward to 4L". TO SHIFT OUT OF 4L, SHIFT THE TRANSMISSION INTO NEUTRAL WITH THE VEHICLE STOPPED, SHIFT THE TRANSFER CASE LEVER TO 2H, THEN THE TRANS TO D IF YOU HAVE AN AUTOMATIC, OR INTO FIRST GEAR WITH A MANUAL, AND CONTINUE ON. Revised 11/20/2014

Actually, the same vintage of Cherokees with the NP242 transfer case had no disconnect and they got the same mileage.......

Tip 31 is up with a parts list, instructions, but no photos yet. www.cruiser54.com. It addresses the throttle body to MAP vacuum line which is no longer available.