cruiser54

I've got over 325 images on photobucket. Would there be an easy way to transfer all to imgur?

and easy to test. http://cruiser54.com/?p=50

I hate those bastards. Alexia, any recommendations?

Be sure to view this: http://cruiser54.com/?p=94 And then this: http://cruiser54.com/?p=54

Headlight system only has a fuse inside the headlight switch.......

https://www.hemmings.com/blog/2017/06/25/the-rambler-rebels-fuel-injection-the-dream-and-the-legend/?refer=news

Are ALL the ports on the ZJ valve .078"? All of them are .100" on the XJ prop valve.

I wonder if you can punch it out. And if you did, would it affect something else? You just don't know what you're missing...........

Having done this mod in different ways, I'm gonna point something out to you guys. You are leaving a large amount of overall braking on the table when keeping the Distribution Valve. Your brake line inner diameter is .100". Stock. Where the fluid for the front brakes passes through the Distro block, it is metered to .050". That's an area of .00196" If you were to use a ZJ prop valve, which is metering the front brakes through a .078" orifice, and eliminate the LSV as a matter of course, because you would use the prop valve to proportion rear braking, the area for the fluid to flow would be the area for the fluid to flow to the front brakes would be .00478". If you use an XJ prop valve, which is metering the fluid to the front brakes through an orifice matching the brake line ID of .100", and eliminate the LSV as a matter of course because you would use the prop valve to proportion rear braking, the area for the fluid to flow would be .00785". By allowing the fluid to flow to the front brakes through an area of .00785" versus an area of .00196". That's a lot!!!!! I've tried it both ways. Now on MJs I ditch the distro block, T the front brake lines together, eliminate the finicky and kludgy LSV. An adjustable prop valve for the rear brakes is $40 at Summit Racing......

Look and see if your wiring harness is pinched behind and lower of the driver side headlight.

Agreed.

Radiator cap could be bad causing both issues.

way to stick with it!!

can you post the photos I emailed you?

Why not test the continuity of the links. Fuses are a bad idea.

Check your email.

You guys will never realize optimum braking performance by leaving the distro valve in the system.

I.s. Note 32E. I have a copy.

A thought. What if appstate97 had an 87 that had the fuel pump ballast resistor retrofit deal done on it?

You likely will be just fine. My wife's 88 is that way except for an XJ prop valve with ZJ guts in it. And you will also realize better overall braking with the larger ports in the ZJ valve. .100" vs .050".

I found the 5 red wires and they were hanging on by a thread. I kept moving up the harness and found the yellow wires in a similar state, slightly better but not much. I don't have a collector big enough to grab the wires before soldering so I swing by the auto parts store or harbor freight tomorrow. Thanks for the help. Can you think of anything else that might need to be checked? One thing at a time. Fix known problems and move on.

Well, how ya gonna do it? Gotta $#!&can the dristo valve and go one of three ways since the distro valve has .050" orifices for the front brakes. Use a ZJ prop valve or an XJ valve with ZJ prop valve guts since the distro valve has .050" passages versus XJ prop valve .100" passages for the front brakes. Or use a T to give the front brakes full power and use an adjustable prop valve for the rear. I wasn't making this $#!& up. Been there, done that, got the T-shirt. I just verified the orifice size on an 89 XJ I'm parting out. Every orifice is .100" on the prop valve. Confirmation of my initial findings.