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Does the starter engage and crank the engine?

Sorry, I never realized step 5 has you cutting off the tabs. This allows for dropping the distributor in the engine only aligning the oil pump driving shaft and setting the rotor tip approximately, or if your lucky, exactly where it needs to be. If your rotor tip is within a tooth or two, moving the distributor housing can make up for this difference. It is possible to do this without cutting off the tabs, but three (3) things need to happen all at once. Oil pump driving shaft must be aligned. As the distributor gear is dropped into the engine, the rotor tip will rotate with the distributor driving gear and must end up just leaving the distributor cap #1 tower, when distributor cap is reinstalled. Distributor housing tabs show the hold-down bolt hole between both tabs. This is not a easy task, but it is possible. Its your call.

Engine timing is a function of the CPS sensor location and the crankshaft trigger wheel. Using this signal, the ECU will determine when to fire the coil for base timing or any advance timing needed for any engine demands. No need to rotate the distributor housing/cap. Indexing ensures that the tip of the rotor, which does rotate, is correctly positioned for the number #1 tower on the distributor cap. Rotor tip should just be pulling away (trailing edge of rotor tip) from the #1 tower. Cylinder piston #1 must be on TDC of the compression/power stoke. Once rotor tip is set, the signal generator/pulse ring (SYNC sensor) will also be in its correct position. So again there is never any need to move the distributor housing/cap and should be installed using the distributor housing locking tabs.

Check the hose between the manifold and the fuel pressure regulator for fuel. Possible small leak on regulator diaphragm.

Is it just me or am I seeing more 50's and 60's station wagons being restored? Noticed more and more real nice ones driving around town lately. Could be a comeback for the wagon.

O2 sensor/O2 heater voltage is supplied by the NC contact (87a) from the O2 heater relay. This assumes terminal 30 gets power from the ignition switch and the O2 heater relay is functioning properly. The only time the ECU will pick the O2 heater relay is during a WOT condition. When picked (during a WOT condition) the O2 heater relay will switch O2 sensor/O2 heater voltage to the fuel pump bypassing the ballast resistor.

Prior to June 1984, the Midwest Region was designated as the North Central Region. Something to do with the Census Bureau.

Nice MJ. Is that a longaberger basket on the center console? Could have some value there.

Could be shielding for the knock senor circuit.

Well my dad and his girlfriend are walking around Washington DC as I type. Couldn't go as a guardian since I would need a guardian. Honor Flight people are a bunch of good people. Its just that simple.

Verify distributor indexing. Cruiser54 tip#13

Could be things: Bad gas New TPS, was it adjusted properly? Crack vacuum line going too the MAP. What is battery voltage while cranking the engine (without battery charger)?

I don't understand the question. Also look at the harness side connector. Something heated up.

That is the location for the fuel pump ballast. Good to see you have a fuel pressure gauge. If that buzzing sound you heard in the cab/wherever was for 2-3 seconds, good chance that was the fuel pump on, when key was cycled from OFF to ON (no cranking). With fuel pressure gauge hooked up, hopefully a trusted pressure gauge, cycle key from OFF to ON. Fuel pressure should read around 39 psi and hold that pressure.

When key is turned to the run position, can you hear the fuel pump run for 2-3 seconds and then shut off? EDIT: Run position is Key On, not cranking.

That scares me.

This is known as 'bulb check'. Its purpose is to let you know the bulb is functioning (not burnt out). The ignition switch (G1) circuit grounds this bulb during engine cranking. This is normal. Also the brake light will do the same thing during engine cranking. Temp light will illuminate during 'bulb check' (engine cranking) or when vehicle is overheated. Bottom is AMC advertising only.

Head to the junkyard.

If you slightly pull back, towards off, on the ignition switch, can you get the idiot lights to go out, while still having ignition on ? Do idiot lights go out when vehicle engine is running?

I'd fix that DTC for the cooling fan and get away from that manual override switch. Which DTC is set? Maybe someone has the electrical wiring for your cooling fan set up. Also, the fan may seem to run slower because when the AC compressor kick on along with the cooling fan things can get noisy.

Two questions: Could the switch be faulty and set to high? Does the fan run slower when the AC is off as compared to when the AC is on? Enjoy your camping.

Click and go to page 75

Engine running at 'normal operating temperature' includes thermostat (195°) for stable temperature and proper engine combustion. Reinstall it. Think of looking into a REM for your vehicle, before loading the parts cannon. Don't forget about cruiser54 tips for poor ground circuits. RENIX ENGINE MONITOR (REM)

Thanks. Let me buy a round. Still need time to sort this one out.

What mixes me up, hydraulic pressure all the time means the brakes are on.