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Since the grill can go on either way from the factory (renix years), it might have been upside down on the showroom floor. This is kind of a standing joke on this site. Your not the first nor will you be the last. If you keep an eye out, you'll find them too.

Fusible links.

Possible leaky injector(s). Try hot start with throttle pedal held to the floor (WOT). This sets a clear flood condition.

One day soon you'll call today a nice day.

Add valve cover leaky grommets to list of causes. Don't know OE#s.

^^^Yea that. Front one is elbow for filtered fresh air in. Back one is elbow w/orifice for fumes out to intake manifold. This is the direction for flow. When lose of manifold vacuum or plugged orifice, flow reverses and fumes end up in air box.

Technically it's a simple switch, shouldn't matter which way.

Those are flasher units.

^^^^^^^^^^^^Good advice.

Brake switch connector Pin A (PINK) Pin B (LT BLUE/BLK)

No

Let's hope we're that lucky.

Do your wipers work? Does your blower motor work?

Your going to need a voltmeter. Remove the HAZ/STOP fuse. Place one lead on metal clip and other lead to ground and measure voltage. Do this on both metal clips.

Yeah, they should.

Two fuses need checking: HAZ/STOP fuse (LT BLUE 15A) TURN B/U fuse (YEL 20A)

Do your brake lights work properly?

Found this surfing the net. Might be old news. https://www.autoblog.com/2014/08/27/chrysler-humvee-concept-military-bid-video/

Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (ECT) and Intake Air Temperature Sensor (IAT) both have input for engine idle speed. Try disconnecting them, forcing them to their default values and see if idle speed will lower. May take a minute or two.

IP cluster, along with many other things, have two points for ground (G102 & G103).

So people bypass the ballast only to make their pump noisier. But in doing so, they tax the pump (pump life) and just pump more fuel back through the return line to the tank. That's my point. WHY?

Unless you like it the way it is, flip your grill, its upside down.

True, the dying pump can always use a good shot of voltage.

I think all you're doing is taxing the pump harder (loss of pump life) and just pumping more fuel back through the fuel return line to the tank. No broken ballast excuses, just carry a small jumper wire in the glove box.

Any insight as to how that works exactly?