LEAD_NOT_FOLLOW

It's your rear proportioning valve for the rear brakes.

Yes

NO Cherokee (XJ) lights will not work on a MJ.

At 6.5" you really need to look into longarms and upgrading your steering setup. We've recently discussed the 6.5" lift height here: http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/view ... 3&start=45

I do not have any good things to say about DAS based on numerous instantances. I'd NOT recommend them.

I hope you mean a higher boiling point. Lower would be bad as it would boil sooner! Yeah... :roll: Lead_"I've been up since 4:00AM for Black Friday madness"_Follow

Rokhound I told ya to keep it... Walked out to the car at 4:30 (yeah I work retail on Black Friday :cry:) and there was 1" of snow on it... I'm not ready for winter quite yet. Heck my MJ's sitting outside still with no doors on it. :roll:

I have a set of aftermarket Wrangler mirrors that attach to the door brackets that I use if I'm on the street doorless. On the trail, I don't run them. They'd get ripped off anyways...

A cooler defiantly helps a lot. Also consider running a "better" fluid that has a lower boiling point. I run ATE Super Blue on all my track cars and have not ever had it get to hot on me after several hours on the track. Prior to running it I was always boiling the fluid. -Lead_"I'm hard on brakes racing"_Follow

Now, I'm not going to rip on Motion's setup, but by the looks and sounds of it, you still use your stock upper arms, which in my opinion is lame, but maybe I'm not seeing the whole picture here. I can't say anything for their quality myself, but from the I think 2 reviews I saw, they seem to be decent for the price. It's a Rock Krawler 3 link setup and uses 1 aftermarket upper arm. It'll flex better than any other control arm setup available... Did you even look at the pic of the kit? :roll: Good pic from the classifieds - http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=6460

Can I ask why you decided on the RE kit?

Keep it! Forecast calls for snow here tomorrow. Wouldn't ya know, the day that I'll be traveling about 500 miles round trip. :roll:

I should also add that you can test the TC by applying power (12v) to the white/black wire at the TCU (C14) to see if Sol. 3 is working. Wiring diagram if you want it - http://www.greatlakesxj.com/tech/TCU4.jpg

Reverse lights are activated by the NSS. You said you did the swap. What were you swapping from and did you add all the wiring and the new (from the AW4) TCU? The TCU is programmed to force torque converter lockup when engine RPMS's are above a certain point (not sure exactly what RPM though?), and when you're at wide open throttle (WOT). As far as the torque converter lock goes. Solenoid 3 is unique, in that it only controls torque converter lock functions. Maybe the AW4 Manual on GLXJ would be of help? It's under the Transmission and Transfer Case section. http://www.greatlakesxj.com/tech.html

Yeah, it's kinda a bad addiction I have/had... You tend to have a lot of cars when you used to own/run a BMW performance shop and race every weekend on a full fledged race team. :oops: That's all in the past, oh the good old days of being single and working your arse off. Wait, I still seem to work my arse off but it's just not as fun as it used to be....

A chip is hands down the "best bang for the buck" mod available in my opinion. Also look into the Mark D chips, as I know Mark's got some sweat chips out now. I worked with Mark back in the day and ran a few of his chips and were very happy with the results. They at the time were about $100 cheaper than a TMS chip. I've got TMS chips in all my bim's now, and am very happy as well. Greg Shaeffer, I'm pritty sure I can put a name with that face. I think he's friends with James Clay from Bimmerworld, and think I met him once while out at VIR.

Might as well if you have it... The TPS on the non-HO engine has 2 connectors that come out of it. One connector (flat one) tells the computer how much throttle is being applied. The other (square) controls the TCU (transmission control unit) which controls shift points. The HO TPS only has 1 connector that goes to the computer. The computer controls the TCU. It is fairly easy to fabricate a small spacer and "widget" to allow the use of the old TPS with the new throttle body (This is a MUST) so far unless you're a rocket scientist and can rewire. This is the only choice. But it's not to hard to make a little adapter. There are several ways to go about it. I'm not going to go into detail about it at this time... I have pics and details of when I did it floating around somewhere. I'll see if I can find them and report back...

I've cut back a lot this past year with them... Currently I have: '90 325iS thats track prepped and serves as 50% DD duty. '91 318i w/m5 motor (80% done). '89 M3 with 2.5L Stroker and tons of Euro DTM goodies. '88 325iT (one of 5 tourings in the US) (hidden in storage) '95 M3 Race Car (sitting at Turner Motorsports as we speak getting worked on) Within the last 12 months I've had these: '91 325iS '89 325i (black one in the background is mine as well) '90 M3 '89 325i '91 325iS '91 318i As you can see, I kinda have a thing for the E30's. I think over the past 8 years I've had about 25-30 of them. :oops: BMW's are defiantly my passion (not that I don't like Jeeps), but the E30's just have a special place in my heart. I've spent several years racing with BMWCCA and NASA. Also was one of the founding guys for the SpecE30 series. Gave up racing and driving instructing 3 years ago as I just had to much other stuff going on. :cry:

Create an account online. As the company name just put your personal name...

DHL 53105 to 79562 at an estimated weight of 50lbs a tire is $21.71 a tire. I'm sure they weight a LOT less than 50lbs a tire.... I've always just shipped them individually as than you don't get hit with an oversized package fee.

I disagree.. Drop the pan and change the filter. The main killer of the AW4 is heat and a dirty screen will cause the fluid to not flow well. I've delt with my fare share of AW4's (now on #4 in my XJ) and every one of them I've changed the filter in and all 4 of them were EXTREAMLY dirty. I've also performed the task on several local GLXJ members's XJ's and I can say that every screen I've ever seen is has been in need of replacement/cleaning. Just because the 1 you did/seen was clean does not mean that the 90% of the other XJ's/MJ's on the road are. Also the dipstick is not an integrated part of the pan. It's just an "o" ring that holds it in. Just pull the pan and the dipstick tube apart and it will come right out.

X2?

do it! :D I'd have to find some place to hide it. :brows: We're already "overcrowded" 4 Jeeps 3 BMW's And her Chevy Lumina Plus 2 BMW's in storage out of state she doesn't even know about.... What about your big arse air plane? Or did you sell that? Still got the warbirds...

http://www.greatlakesxj.com/tech/aw4shiftmod.html