LEAD_NOT_FOLLOW

Found enough time today to install my CB. It will be nice to have it since we're going wheeling this weekend.

With Rusty's kit you'll have nothing but problems with it. And Rough Country does not make a longarm kit...

Just modify the CAD. It's a 15 min job tops. http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopi ... c&start=75 (about 1/2 way down) Yes, the older Renix axle's are stronger once you swap out the axleshafts. They have the reinforcement on the drivers side due to the CAD.

And batteries! Cause the one's at the campground store won't work. Oh wait... you already figured that one out! :fool:

Adjust your steering stops if your rub at full lock...

Use a renix AC bracket and simple arm w/ 2 holes in it about 2.5" apart. The alt bolts right upto the renix AC bracket... You'll also need to get a 75" belt for it to work. OH, and it will only work with the Renix motor, won't work with the HO motors....

I'm assuming this is what your wanting to accomplish? It's a photoshop, sorry to burst your bubble. :cheers:

Hope your good with metal work. The XJ and MJ roofs are totally different. If you line the rain-gutters up this is what you have.... So to make it work "good" you'd have to have a spare MJ roof. Your still looking at 2 seems however. Also if you plan on doing a 2 door, and adding the extra cab you'll have an issue with the rear of the MJ hitting the rear wheel. Given this is an XJ, but they aren't to far off wheelbase wise. (XJ is 101.4" and Longbed MJ is 119.4) .Even with the 18" difference your going to be cutting it AWFUL close if your going to use XJ vent window's...

You, Me, and Bob should all have our MJ's re-united again. Maybe we can con someone else into bringing one! 8) I swear someday we'll have more MJ's than XJ's in the club at an event (ok it's a long shot, but a worthy hope!)

1 week away! :cheers: Be sure to check the GLXJ forum for last minute updates! http://greatlakesxj.activeboard.com/ind ... D=13165976

Each tank has a date, and 5 years from that date, it has to be tested. However to the best of my knowledge, this is only for company owned tanks (like you rent them). The supply company is under federal regulations to have these bottles hydrostatic tested a minimum of every 5 years. However if you own your tank, I do not believe it has to be tested as your the one liable for it. Some supply places however may not fill it if it wasn't tested, others could care less... I do not know about the tank paint law in Cali. Once again I would assume that if you own your own tank you are the reliable one, so the law would apply to a supplier.

Keith (the admin of JF) is a idiot. They are still having "server issues". After 3 server drives in the last 2 years of begging for money, and getting over $10,000 from them they still can't get things right? Come on... Lead_"I'm still banned until Wednesday on JF"_Follow

Last time we were going to have an "event" only 1 guy showed up from Comanche Club... :roll: He was lucky enough to have another group of guys (GLXJ) there to wheel with...

If my memory serves me correct it was a husband/wife combo. The wife was driving, the husband was spotting. They drove it to town after the roll, put it on a trailer and took it home. Insurance did not cover it, however the cage did fail and they sued the the cage manufacture (rock-hard) and won. Rumor has it that is the reason rock-hard has changed the design on the wrangler cages. Like I said, it's just my memory so some of the facts my not be 100%. I have pics around somewhere of the cage failer and what it looked like after the roll. I'll see if I can find them...

How are you doing that? The design (factory "z") requires it to have a pivot point to work. I tried to adjust it to not have to be in that support, but the bracket just "tweaks" under movement and won't allow enough lateral movement to move the lever on the actual TC itself...

So over the past year of more hardcore wheeling I've learned to HATE the stupid "z-pattern" shifter linkage on the NP231 TC. I continue to have nothing but problems with it. I've done my research and will upgrade to the Novak SK2X setup. However at the moment I don't have the $130 to throw at it (getting married in December). So I'm looking for a cheaper/easier alternative to fixing my problem for about 2 runs left this year. I keep having a problem with the linkage coming out of the mount on the TC itself. I've continue to adjust the linkage, I've continued to try to press that stupid bushing back in, and it just keeps coming out leaving me crawling on the ground to adjust it by hand. Does anyone know where I can find a replacement bushing? Anyone have any idea's for keeping that "rod" into the mount? Once again, a design flaw from the factory with a stupid setup. :nuts:

They are dropping like flies lately... http://jeeperman.com

You should be ok even stock to be honest with you. If a KJ at 2" and 31's can stay with us when we were doing some "hard" stuff, you'd be fine with a stock XJ. The majority of the stuff we run you can "go around" the hard stuff if you want anyways. I won't personally have an extra seat, but I'm sure someone would. We can definatlly get you a seat somewhere if you came and didn't want to wheel your own rig (probably even in a MJ if your nice).

Haven't really had much time to work on the MJ as we're planning a wedding... However I did get to spend about an hour on it today. I decided to fab up a mount for my hi-lift as I was getting tired of it sliding around the bed and having a hard time keeping it tied down. I used rear bumper brackets from an XJ. They ended up working well.

Can I ask why? They suck in everything but soupy mud. They offer no lateral support, they suck on rocks, and will tear up your drivetrain if you ever "get on it" and catch something.

Frank @ JP Freak sponsor's our club, so I thought I'd do a "thank you" to him on behalf of GLXJ. I modified his logo to an XJ/MJ front.

NAPA sells a product called "decal remover wheel" (or something like that). It's a rubber(ish) wheel that you attach to the end of a drill and simply run it over the decals/pinstripes. It works awesome, and does not affect the paint. It's fairly cheap to (under $20 if I remember correctly).

A TB spacer will give you no gains at all. Bore your TB out, than your talking about gains. Lead_"I've dyno proven the TB spacer myth with no results"_Follow

Some Dana 44's out of other vehical's use the u-bolts instead of the straps. A trip to the junkyard and you could probably easily find them. Just a FYI, a Dana 30 and a Dana 44 use the same yokes (they are interchangeable). So you can do it to your front as well if you'd like.