LEAD_NOT_FOLLOW

The carb'd 2.5L was used in 84-85. It "could" of been a late '85 build and sold as a 1986 model... ;) It's unlikely but it's not impossible...

Man those cleaned up nice. Looking good!

Yes AW4 is the automatic tranny often found in the Comanche's. Here this link will help you a bit understand a few more things: http://greatlakesxj.activeboard.com/for ... ID=5476243

Based on the joint on the axle end they look to me to be home made. I don't ever recall any LCA's looking like that. But thats just a guess... As far as what lift they are for just measure from hole to hole and refer to this based on the length: http://greatlakesxj.activeboard.com/ind ... opicPage=2

http://www.greatlakesxj.com/tech/injectors.html

No experience with them. I have been VERY happy with the CSF brand one's however.

Are you re-using them? If not just twist the studs and break them off. It does not take much for them to break. Lead_"I'm surprised your other one came off without breaking the studs"_Follow

Coming from the guy with a heated camper... Lead_"just thinking about how cold it REALLY was"_Follow

You can run coil spacers. LINK

I am certain I can't dissuade you from that opinion, but what you are proposing is physically impossible. Why is that physically impossible? I'd really like to hear your reasoning as to why it is... :roll: Also it's been said that to keep the closed loop system in "tip-top" shape you'll at somepoint have to replace things. So if you do have to buy a new rad and a new pressure bottle (they like to crack!) than why not just get a newer style rad and the money spent on the pressure bottle just get the new heater control valve? It's not like if your spending the $$ replacing Renix parts that it's really any more cost to do the conversion.... Also, I'd do with a CSF 3-core over a factory replacement. I've ran CSF's in all my rigs and have been very happy with them. And yes I've even ran a Renix CSF before I did the conversion....

You just haven't been tought correctly. I guess it's cause you have a relationship with JB and he fills your head with that stuff... -Lead_"I was a former BFG guy but now my heart belongs to Maxxis"_Follow

I disagree with Eagle. The 91+ cooling system conversion is worth every penny spent on doing the conversion. Getting rid of the pressure setup is worth any amount of money spent on the conversion. No more finding t-stats with the bleader hole in them so you can get the air out of the system, no more stupid pressure bottle's that blow on you (even new ones), no more crappy heater control valves. Just do it and don't look back. Yes I've spent a lot of money keeping my Renix era setup in tip-top shape and once I finally broke down and did the conversion it's a night and day difference. And as far as Eagle saying that their is no difference in cooling I disagree with that entirely. The new open-loop setup is so much more efficant that it cools so much better. Just my penny and a half worth from someone who's spent a lot of time (and money) dealing with the cooling on the 4.0L's...

Every dealer that I know that makes a key from your vin requires you to have the title in hand prior to them doing the key for you. I think it's a DC thing nationwide...

And to the OP, your going to want at least a 10" wide rim. Even with a 10" wide rim your just asking to pop a bead...

You guys and your skinny tires... It's a night and day difference between going with the wider 12.5's. You gain 4" of stance and in my opinion I'd rather have a wider MORE STABLE stance than feel like I have my shoulders shrugged and I'm going to tip/blow over driving down the road. To each their own I guess.... PS. Wade I'll let you try Rebecca's 33x12.5's next time were together. Drive down the road and than tell me you like your 10.5's better... ;)

Yes. I run it on 2 of our rigs and it should be here next week for the 3rd. The brace is the reason I run the RE units and not the TNT units as it does help quite a bit.

Have you even ever looked at a stock housing before? :roll:

A lot of lifts at the 3-4.5" height use AAL's (add a leafs). And a lot of them also don't include tracbars or longer control arms (plus other stuff). Their are a few kits in the market from cheap to really expensive. It's kinda one of those things you get what you pay for. Some of the better kits w/leafs and control arms - LINK

I've gotten them at AutoZone before. Hesco makes a nice high-flow one for not much money (around $30 if I recall correctly) that increases the flow capacity quite a bit. I run it on my XJ and have been happy with the results.

PM Sent :cheers:

Rich, It seems to be the ongoing legal battle that never ends between Solid and RockCrusher. I don't think anyone knows whats going on between them anymore. You hear a different story everytime you talk to someone. Website's show different address' but the zipcode is only 1 digit off meaning to me that they are located next door to eachother... Last I knew is what I posted above and I thought RockCrusher was a thing of the past. Than I read your post and see you got a new RockCrusher cover and am like WTF!. So I look into it a bit more and become even more confused. Oh well the general public will probably never know the truth behind it all. Glad you got a new alumn. one. Let us know how you end up liking it compared to the steel one.

D30/open and D35/open with 4.10 gears. Haven't had an issue yet. Will I explode the D35; yes eventually. But it was a budget build and figured I'd wheel it till it breaks THAN put my D44 in it. I wheeled it 1 season and wasn't easy on it and haven't broke it yet... On my XJ I run a D30/locked and D44/open with 35's and a lot more power to turn them. Only issue I have axle wise is I keep breaking input yokes...

Where did you find a RockCrusher diff cover at? They haven't been made since late 2006. EDIT: Nevermind I guess. http://www.rockcrusherdiffs.com I thought that Solid discontinued the line fully. I guess I was wrong...

I used the Motion Offroad Bolt-On SOA kit w/factory 4wd leafs. It got me 6.5-7" of lift. Before w/31's: After w/31's and rear trimmed fenders w/TJ front flares, I was running RE 4.5" coils and it sat "butt high": After w/35's and 6.5" Motion Offroad Coils: 5 Bonus points who can tell me who's MJ tail light that is in the right hand side of the pic. :D

If you want to make them yourself. http://www.greatlakesxj.com/tech/bumper_mount.pdf