LEAD_NOT_FOLLOW

You have the NP207 than. I don't know much about that TC; sorry. If you don't have (N) on the TC I would assume your going to have to pull both front and rear driveshafts if you flat tow, or the rear if you use a tow dolly.

I'm not 100% sure what your asking. The NP231 (Command Trac) is 2H - 4H - N - 4L The NP242 (Select Trac) is 2wd - 4part-time - 4full-time - N - 4LO If you put your TC in (N) than it is freely spinning even if your axle is turning thus turning your driveshaft. The TC will freely spin in (N) (aka not engaged to the tranny).

OK here is directly from the manual; I'll recap for ya after... So to recap. This is for BOTH flat towing and using a tow dolly. Tranny in (P) for an Auto or (1st) for a Manual Transfer Case in (N) Steering Column unlocked As far as removing the DS I would ONLY do it if your flat towing and have the front wheels off the ground OR if you have a NP231 and your front axle has the disconnect as the front DS won't spin than. If you have a NP242 or a new Jeep that does not have the vac. disco front axle you'll need to leave the rear driveshaft or fluid will come out. I guess also if you have a SYE it'll be ok to remove the rear driveshaft as well.

I've flat towed as well as tow-dolly'd several XJ's and MJ's without issues. Just do it correct and you won't have issues. I have the directions from the FSM I'll post here in a min. Wife's 1st Totaled XJ (ok not on the dolly but you can see it) Wife's replacement XJ (her 2nd one) Wife's XJ (her 3rd one) Flat Towing my MJ

Hope you have better luck with the FM u-joints than I have. I had to use one as a trail emergency to get me home and it didn't even last the day of wheeling... Good luck non-the-less! :cheers:

You used to be able to get Spicer u-joints at Napa but they do not carry them any more and try to sell you a Fedral Mogul (their house brand made in China) part and say it's the same thing (it's not). Here is a source for Spicer U-Joints http://motionoffroad.com/catalog/index. ... cPath=5_74 You probably have 260x in the axle and 1310 in the driveshaft.

Well I will admit I have not put it to "the test" yet. The MJ is just a trail-only rig and the most I've had in the bed is some camping stuff, my big "trail box" that's full of tools/spare parts, and a spare tire. I have not put a load of stone or anything like that in it. So take it for what it's worth. For me it serves the purpose very well; for someone else who uses the bed a lot more than I do than it "may" not hold up as well; I dunno.

I did mine myself for about $40. Duplicolor Spray in Bedliner in a can. Stuff works greats and if you give it several coats it last quite well as well. I've used it on the bed of my MJ as well as all the rockers on our XJ's.

Every time I wheel I use it... Here are a few idea's. MJ: Wifes XJ:

One more thing I'll add is to use a Satin type paint for best results. Anything else (besides flat) will look spray painted on a large surface and will require a lot more paint/work to make it look decent. Here is a link to the Rustoleum I used. http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=25

XJ Rear Bumper Mounts. I than just use a bike cable lock to keep it secure.

I used Rustoleum (sp?) on my MJ directly over the factory paint (no primer) and got great results. I got best results just giving it 1 heavy layer of paint and NOT wet sanding it after the fact. It's held up very well, still looks good, and hasn't came off even after many many trail runs. Photo of the bedside with 1 coat of paint. Entire MJ.

We had 3 of these growing up. Wish my father wasn't stupid and kept them. One of the coolest "offroad" type things we've ever had. He sold them to put more money into his FJ40. :roll:

Last I talked with Matt @ Formatt Fab he wasn't making them any longer. Things may have changed but last I knew he was done producing them. The Warrior doors had some issues and they recalled them all back. I'm not sure if the problem's with them have been resolved or not yet. I've seen both in person and would recommend the Formatt Fab one's over the Warriors. As far as making your factory doors removable you need to cut the bottom of the hinge off. The drivers side is fine, however on the passengers side you "may" have an issue as the pins were sometimes pressed in from the bottom. If this is the case you just simply need to weld the pin in the top. I'd also recommend cutting the pins down a bit as it makes putting them on much easier. Photo's from Randy @ MYXJ.net

I know in Indiana if you go to the BMV you can get a form for this exact issue. They will contact the owner (you may have to have the original owner present) to confirm it and they than transfer everything as normal. I would assume that most BMV's in other states have a similar procedure that they follow for this issue. Give them a call and explain the situation and I'm sure they can tell you exactly what needs to be done.

Here is an additional one; http://www.greatlakesxj.com/tech/mjframe.jpg

I won't know until closer to that date. With the new "little Jeeper" coming we don't know what our wheeling schedule will be this season until after he/she is here. We'd like to make it but we'll remain a "maybe" until closer to that date.

HUH!?! :roll: This is NOT true. My wife's XJ ran 31x10.5 tires with a rim with 3.5" BS and never once touched the flares with the tires and we never bumpstoped with this setup. I can't even count how many GLXJ members are running the RC 3" lift with 31" tires and have NEVER had an issue with rubbage at full lock or while flexing. I don't really have a good photo showing the front stuffed but here is the rear stuffed into the rear wheel well with the RE 3.5" lift. You also have to remember that the XJ has smaller rear wheel wells than the MJ does. We also ran 31's on stock rims for awhile before she bumped upto 33's and I'll be the 1st to say I HATED how it rode. The stock rims sit to far inward and you feel SOOO unstable while driving. It's a night a day difference between having stock offset (backspacing) and 4" or higher BS. We bumped up to 33x12.5's with the SAME LIFT with 4" BS and I trimmed littlerly a 1" x 3" peice at the bottom of the front flare and that is all I needed for clearance even while wheeling. Shot with the stock rims and 31's, look how much further they sit in than the photo below with 31's and 3.5" BS. (her's in the smaller of the 2)

Don't quote me on this, but the rod journals on the 2.5's are a little larger than Chevy rods. A good machine shop that specializes on crank grinding can probably "off-set" grind your crank about .110 to use Chevy rods. If this is the case, you should be able to stroke a 2.5, use Chevy rods and pistons for a cheap price. I would go to your local machine shop and see if anybody there can crunch some numbers to make it work. You will also have to figure the proper piston pin height for proper deck and crankshaft counterweight clearance. Balancing shouldn't be too much of a problem as Chevy rods and pistons come in a variety of weights, and 4 bangers balance easy. And an increase in .110 is stroke will be very noticeable. To the best of my knowledge I have never heard of a 2.5L stroker crank.

I reused the stock plates and put them under the axle. I was willing to give up a bit of ground clearance to run a longer travel shock than if I put them on top. Up top even with my lift I was not happy with how short of a shock it would of required.

Oh where do I start... :roll: '89 XJ '88 MJ '93 XJ (wifes DD) '90 325iS '89 M3 '95 M3 Racecar '91 318i And the sad thing is I've cut back on my projects a lot the last 2-3 years... :cheers:

Just look at the front axle. Vac. Disco Axle = NP231 Non-Vac. Disco Axle = NP242

The 904 was only used in 1986 to the best of my knowledge. The AW4 was used starting in 1987. Probaly the easiest way to tell is see if it has the "power-comfort" switch. The majority (however not all) in the late 80's/early 90's has this switch. The TF904 NEVER had it.

It will physically bolt to the head without issues. The problem is using the Renix downpipe (it' won't bolt up) so you need to use a HO downpipe as well. The other issue is with the EGR. The HO does not have the port hole for the EGR on it so you either have to ditch your EGR or drill/tap a hole in the HO manifold.