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Available here; http://motionoffroad.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6_112&products_id=1722

More info here; viewtopic.php?f=9&t=10054

I've had my hands on several different adjustable control arms and have had many different sets on my own Jeeps. Based on what information you've given I'd either recommend the JKS or the RE SuperRide adjustables. The JKS - JKS6100 are quite a bit more expensive and honestly I think are overpriced for what they are. A quality product but I don't think worth the extra coin (we're JKS dealers, and sell a lot of JKS parts; so I'm not trying to discredit them). The RE SuperRide - 3720 set has rubber bushings on both ends. You'll get a much better ride than the one's on the market with flex joints on them. Plus they are $100 cheaper than the JKS one's... Let me know if I can answer any questions on either set. I have them both on the shelf and am happy to get you any info you'd like on either set.

Can't say I've noticed much (if any) loss. It's an offroad only MJ so it only see's the trails. I've towed with my XJ several times. Doing with 35's kinda sucks for the milage; though having the stroker motor I think helps a lot.

I've towed my MJ behind the wife's XJ (3.5" lift on 33's; did it a few times as well when she was on 31's) a dozen or so times. You just need to take the time to make sure you have it setup correctly. The biggest tip is to make sure you have the towbar pointing down towards the hitch; so when the weight of the MJ slows down it's pushing the rear of your tow vehicle down (not up). It's amazing what lowering your hitch mount will do for stability and not feeling so "pushed around". You just need to give yourself plenty of room to stop. It in all honestly pulls and feels better than my 12' utility trailer does pulling the MJ. Just make sure you have your TC/Tranny and steering wheel setup correctly per the manual. I made a mount that goes off my C4x4 tow hooks. Goes all the way across and ties the 2 together. If you look close in this pic you can see the setup a bit better. This pick was taken to test the setup. It was prior to me lowering the hitch mount as stated above. Though having a truck/trailer is always the best option.

We had 3 of them when I was young. Ours were all a red(ish) color. Dad sold them off to buy a warbird... :fs1: I'll have to see if I can dig up some pics of them.

AMC 20 in the MJ's were all a 1 piece shaft from the factory.

Jay, You may want to clarify that this is a FRONT D44 axle. -Adam

http://motionoffroad.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&manufacturers_id=42

I've been really happy with the AutoPal's. I run them on 5 of the 6 Jeep's we own. http://greatlakesxj.activeboard.com/index.spark?aBID=43793&p=3&topicID=15250394

For what it's worth... I was a die-hard BFG MT guy. So when it came time to buy tires several years ago I was seriously considering them again. However after much research and seeing the Maxxis Bighorn's on the trail I decided to give them a try. I was so impressed with them that we became a stocking Maxxis dealer. We sell the Bighorn's 4 to 1 over the BFG MT's (and KM2). They do have their downfalls; a little softer rubber (could be a downfall, could be a benefit depending on how you look at it) and they are a bit louder than the BFG's were. Both of which downfalls were not huge one's to me. Now I haven't personally had the new KM2's on my own rig to date yet; so I can not comment on them. The one's that we've sold we've had positive feedback on however. I also have had nothing but positive feedback from the Bighorn's, I actually receive more calls/emails from customer's thanking us for recommending them to them than any other product line that we sell. Most importantly though, is to choose a tire that fits your needs the best. What's the best for me may not be the best for you and how you use your MJ....

They will not fit. The bolt-pattern in wrong.

The 2 door and 4 doors flares are identical...

Correct it was a 4.0L/AW4/NP231 combo.

To the best of my knowledge a MJ never came with the NP242 from the factory. If you have one someone along the line has swapped it in. When I swapped in a NP242 in my old MJ I ended up using EVERYTHING associated with the NP242 (lever, mount, linkage, etc) to get it to work. I could not get it to work with the old (231) lever. It would not engage everything correctly. Also the NP242 mount sits a bit different; it's been awhile but if I remember correctly I had to trim a bit of the opening on the tunnel to get it to fit correctly.

A rear traction bar to eliminate the "hop" is much easier to build than a 4-link setup...

2" MJ full length AAL - http://motionoffroad.com/catalog/index. ... ts_id=1432

I still don't understand why everyone thinks that they've gotta hack the crap out of their fenders to run 35's with a 6.5" lift? I run 35's on my XJ (aka smaller wheel openings) on a 5" lift without any issues. I run 33's on my wife's XJ with only a 3.5" lift with the factory flares still installed. You can easily run 35's with a 6.5" lift. It's all in how the suspension is setup and how you have it bump-stopped. Suspension travel is not always about uptravel (though it's important; you don't need a ton of it to have a very capable rig). We run solid axle vehicles; when you hit your bumpstop is forces the other side down (aka more flex). 6.5" Motion Offroad lift on 35's. I've done very minimal trimming to the front and kept the flares in their original location;

Jay, The Lock-Right AMC20 part number is 1710. The spring/pin kit part number is 1025350KAP. The cross-shaft part number is SA1710. I do have 10 of the spring/pin kits sitting on the shelf. Give me a call if I can be of help. You have our number... -Adam

There are 2 kits that I know of on the market currently to run a 231 doubler. One of them is the Mad Rooster One of them is the Box-4-Rocks Both are quality kits but do require modification to 1 of the 231's.

To expand on what Eagle said; 89-95 XJ with ABS have 5-297x u-joints, and all 95+ XJ's have 5-297x u-joints

The heim joint used in the RE1600 trackbar is made by QA1. The RE1600 heim has a reputation to get noisy and fail over time, and that is with a quality QA1 heim. I'd NOT ever recommend going cheaper with a hardware store (Chinese made) bought heim as a fix. I posted the QA1 part number; I'm sure it can be found cheaper than threw RE directly. The issue with the design that I believe cracker is referring to is the fact that it's single shear mounted.

RE1684 is the hardware kit (retails for $24.95) QA1EXML12 is the Heim Joint (retails for $24.95)

The Chrysler 8.25" is what I would consider to be a "noisy" axle. I don't think I've ever heard one not make noise (howl) while driving down the road. With that being said, I have seen (and have had personal experience) with carrier bearing failures on this axle on more than 1 occasion. We however are running larger tires (33" and 35") on them and do wheel on a regular basis; so that may be some of our issues. I'm not saying that this is the issue with your axle, but if you think it sound louder than normal it could potentially be the problem.

Congrats Wade. I've had the privileged of wheeling with Wade and his MJ a few times and it's always been a pleasure.