jimoshel

If you weld them UJoints back together you won't have to grease them.

The following data came from a 1989 MJ and a 1985 S10. The face plate on the MJ is the same length as the S10 bumper. Add the 2 end pieces makes it 4" wider. The MJ mounting points are 4"wider than the S10 frame. I see no reason why you couldn't take a 4"X8"X1/4" or 3/8" steel plate, Approximate, Drill 2 holes in each one to match the MJ bottom of frame mounting holes And drill 2 more, Or weld, to match the S10 bracket. That would be a basic mount. To really get DeLuxe add a upright by welding,to each plate to match the MJ original vertical side mounts. Do all welding on the S10. Not the MJ. :smart:

Can't. Need the othern to pick mah nose wit. :clapping:

They are the same.

If you've got any kind of fabrication skills at all anything is possible. From what I've seen of the two all it would take is fabricate or modify the mounting brackets. MJ mounts from side and bottom. S10 side only. Only got a '85,'87 and '89 S10, so don't know about earlier or later models.

Just finished a survey and have arrived at the conclusion that there was no standard for attaching MJ beds to the frame. This conclusion is based on information found in the '86-'87 FSM. The '89 FSM. Chilton's manual and CD. Haynes manual and visual inspection of 7 MJ's in my yard. One '87 and one '88 was identical. All hex bolts. All others seemed to be a combination of what ever the assembler found laying on the floor and in the parts bin when he got to that point. Wonder what would have happened if there had been a roll of duct tape or pop rivets handy? Jim

Would have reached 1,000 posts by now but I'm a slow one finger typer. :rotf:

The book shows 6 bolts on each side holding the bracket. However every MJ I've looked at only had 4. one going up from the bottem just to the rear off the spring mount and three going in from the side. Above the spring mount. Then there's the wires for the LP lights.

Inflation. In 1957 I bought K98 Mauser complete with all accessorys for $23.For another $5 they threw in a Russion Mosin-Nagant.

"Exacerbates"? Reaching for 'Rogets Thesaurus and D Websters dictionary. :typing:

The nuts are permanently welded to the bed. The bolts are your common, ordinary hex head bolts. On mine the two front ones were studs. I don't know if thats the exception or the rule.

Fan belts are very strong and dependable. I haven't heard of one breaking now since this morning. :fool:

When your girl friends father, or hubby, discovers her 'condition' and comes after you. Patch up them bullet holes in the vehicle.

People who live in NYC don't need MJ'S. They got pavement. You should find some worthy recipient who lives out west and is willingly gracious enough to accept your generous offer to donate it to me,,er,,him,,,they,,,whatever. Welcome to the club. Jim :cheers: :wavey:

Take a hose, size not really important.Heater hose works good. I prefer rubber over plastic. Put one end to your ear. Use the other end as a probe. Go around the gaskets or any suspect area listening for any noise. The hose acts just like a stethescope and magnifies any noise.

Why would anybody want to chop the back of a XJ for anyway?

I was wrenchin for a construction Co, doing road repair in NM once. I thought I had a permanent gig going so was happy as a s*t eating hound dog. Sat noon after picking up my paycheck I was walking out the door and the boss calls me over and informs me I needn't bother coming in that Night. Losing your job sucks but a notice is much better than none.

Dasbull is correct. Look for the obvious first and try to correct it without digging into the motor. When I read 'burnt valve' my mind jumped to warp speed. However I stand by my recommendations for testing if it isn't an exhaust leak, Rereading the symptoms, it very well could be an exhaust leak. Besides the manifold to head gasket the doughnut gasket between manifold and exh pipe is also a leaker. Hose trick should work.

(not afraid to admit I was stronger then, bench pressed the combo up, as I spun the t-case yoke with both my feet to line up the input shaft into the clutch plate... really. :yes: :nuts: ) Been there. Done that. But not this week.

Locomotives had cattle guards, Jeeps can have hiker guards.

First Chile, Then California. If I was you I'd hang onto that future to be beach.

Yes, while the motor is running. The engine drops rpms thats a good cylinder. It stays the same then it's a dead cyl. Insulated fuse pullers works good for pulling a "hot" wire.If you have a burnt valve then all the heat is going out that hole. It will burn the seat. Seats are very expensive to replace.

There are cleverly concealed hydraulic motors in the hubs. Everything else is just for show. :rotf:

Just interested in what others use for patching and/or fabricating metal parts. I like to use roof tops cut from Ford station wagons and panels. Seems like it bends and welds better than other stuff I've used. Altho the door panels on '48-'53 chevy trucks worked good, but they're hard to find now. Curious minds want to know! :D

If it is a burnt valve you want to fix it before it burns the seat.See if you can isolate it to one cylinder. Pull one plug wire at a time. Will tell you which cyl is bad or making the noise.Take a compression check on that cylinder.If it's reading below 110PSI you have a problem.Sometimes on a small leak a compression check won't reveal it. Now you have to do a leak down test.Borrow or buy an adapter so you can hook a air supply to the cyl. I have made them by using an old spark plug but for the time and trouble just buy one.Run the piston to top dead center. Attach an air hose to the adapter. need a pressure guage in the air line. Fill the cyl with air,120-150psi.Turn the air off. watch the guage, it should hold the reading. If it starts bleeding down your losing compression. Listen at the carb or TBI for air leak.that's intake valve. Listen at tail pipe.Air leak is exhaust valve. Remove oil filler cap. Air leak is rings. And Jeep or not they should not be making loud valve train noises.