jimoshel

I have about six different sets. Not sure on the exact count because I keep them in a coffee can and they get mixed up. Some broke and got tossed. The best ones seem to be the anodized aluminum ones, one size per tool. Black=1/4" Red=5/16" Gold=3/8" Teal=1/2" There are eight pieces in a plastic set covering 1/4 to 7/8". Then I have 3 aluminum tools pivoted in the middle with one having 6 sizes and the other 2 having 4 sizes each.

Got all them, plastic and metal. They worked great on all the other fittings I used them on but there was just this one, the lower hose on a '94WJ that refused to separate, no matter what tool or method was tried. After 2 hours gave way to frustration and cut the hose.

Because I couldn't get the quick connect to unconnect. I sprayed it with cleaner, blasted it with air and it just would not separate. :wall:

Still got my first one. A 1989 Pioneer, 2.5, 5spd, 2WD. $100. Liked it so much, I got a 'couple more' to go with it.

After having to remove a radiator for the 5th time in as many weeks from a '94 and '96ZJ and a '98 WJ, I'm curious as to how others do it. What do you do about the disconnect fittings for the transmission cooling lines going to the radiator, with and without the auxiliary cooling rad? I have disconnected the fitting, used a open end wrench and removed the fitting from the rad tank, and just cut the rubber hose and spliced it back together again. How do you do it? :wrench:

Vacuum pressure=15 to 22 is operating range. 17 is considered norm.

Don't see why not. Make sure the surface is clean and roughed up a bit with a Brillo pad or fine sand paper.

As much as I wanted to, afraid I've got to cancel. Was counting on the GF to share the driving and she just backed out. Had a minor, minor?, stroke the other day so I.m kinda hesitant about trying it solo.

The word is out around here that I am paying $300 for any rust free, complete MJ, whether it runs or not, and regardless of any accessories. As you described it, I would go -$400 at least.Prices vary in different parts of the country. As Don said, check the local market. Remember, it is a MJ and 2.5 engines and 2WD are very reliable and get the job done.

I have some AX15'S. Also got some BA10. I think shipping would make them impractible but might check and see.

I have had almost as many failures with brand new parts straight from the box as I have with parts removed from junked out cars. Don't care where i get them from any more, I test them before installing.

At least replace the pin. You can see the wear on it. The gears, hard to tell but they look worn in the pics. Go to the friendly parts dept joker at the dealership and ask him to lay a new one on the counter so you can compare them. Very minute wear on a gear translate to very loud clunk when running. If I were doing it on mine, I would replace the pin, keep the gears, assuming there are no rough wear on them, and reset the adjustment. :wrench:

Any body in Michigan want to buy a rust free MJ? Don't get too excited. Right now just thinking. Thinking about driving 1 MJ and tow bar or tow dolly a second one, selling both, and the tow bar and flying back. :huh???:

I've got several transmissions. If the shipping wouldn't kill ya.

All the graphics on all my MJ'S seems to be matte. However they're all so old, faded, peeling etc, etc it's really hard to say for sure. Just order one small sample of each and apply them. See which looks better.

What are you a moran? That's clearly where the mechanical fuel pump bolts to the engine, you know like this: I would say just replace your mechanical fuel pump to stop that leak and you should be good. (for those not clued in when the I6 did have a mechanical fuel pump it wasn't in that location) Well,,,,If I had known that, I wouldn't have punched the d*mn hole there trying to mount a mechanical pump. Moron is spelled m o r o n. :rotf:

It is PG8. I just dropped the 'P'. :doh:

Can this be the source of my oil leak and messy under carriage, or should I be looking somewhere else? /SAM_0156.jpg[/img]

Still gonna need to do some filler and spray new base and clearcoat. I got some leftover green of that color from the XJ I bought this summer and lots of clear still........ How much $ ?. Paint code G8.

Get a can of compressed air, or starting fluid. Spray it on the CPS. See what happens. Also spray it on any other suspect component.

Got a similar problem, kind of. I have a 1994 ZJ, 4.0. RE42 auto. Sluggish on take off, not shifting down. When I manually shift it's great. At 75mph the tach is reading 2400rpm. My '93ZJ, similar engine, tranny, and axle ratio reads 1600rpm at 75. I've checked everything I can think of and what the book suggests. Any ideas? :help:

Removed the piece of cardboard I placed in front of the Radiator last November. It was gettin' kind of warm in this 100+ degree heat we been getting lately. :thwak:

Yes, IF the price was reasonable. As long as Dodge is making trucks and Jeep is owned by Chrysler it will never happen. :fs1:

lol got a better pic of the damaged area? Ask and you shall receive. I figure a couple light taps with a hammer and dolly will work it out. Paints bad so don't have to worry about not damaging it.

There'l always be cold one in the fridge waiting for ya Rob. One thing I've found out in my life. You just never know when a friend or old acquaintance is going to be dropping in.