Tykerp

Yellaheep I have one of those brush guard/ winch mounts that came off a Cherokee if you really need one. It does have the brackets.

I would replace it. I bought a melling set when I built my 94 motor. Timing marks were 180 degrees off. Took me awhile to figure out why it would not run. I lined everything up properly according to alldata and Chilton. Finally inspected the old timing set and new one and figured out they marked it 180 off.

I always carry a crank sensor in the glove box. I have a coil to but that is just because I found a new one in my garage.

The emblem also looks like something you could buy at a trophy store then to add the spelling is incorrect. Nice looking Comanche

How much did you have to add? Couldn't have been much. The snout on a 8.25 is 1/2" longer then a 35... If I remember right I ended up just doing some research and I found a slip yoke that was slightly longer that fixed it. I could drive it, just seemed pretty far out did not want to push my luck. SYE is in order just wanted to drive it to work out all the bugs after the HO swap

I just got done rebuilding the engine on my Cherokee it made that noise every time it shut off for awhile. pulled the valve cover and seemed to be coming from the lifters(they are new like the rest of the engine) noise finally went away not sure what or why it was. Sounded great when running just got that sound after turning it off. Seems to have gone away now.

They are very addictive. You should know that I think. I think the girlfriend is a little jealous of the time I spend with my Comanche.

I got tired of warping rotors to. I did try the new gold rotors from autozone. They have a much higher carbon content to avoid warping and so far working. They have been on for a little while now. I was just warranty swapping rotors all the time. They also come with a coating on them that keeps the rest of the rotor from rusting or seizing to wheels/hubs. Been happy so far for the price. I will keep you updated as time goes on.

I love seeing jeep fans move to Colorado. More people to hit rails with and help keep trails open. Welcome!

I am sprung over and have no transfer case drop or slip yoke eliminator and I get no vibration. I did have lengthen my driveshaft. I am running a chrysler 8.25 right now. My Cherokee has 6 inch skyjacker springs and the longer shackles in the rear and I have neither on it and no vibration.

Mine is an 88 with a shortbed with an HO swap. I did not lose any fuel usage either. I have to pull it again because the Delphi pump is annoyingly loud so I ran it out of fuel to see how many gallons I could put in. I put in exactly the same amount I did when I ran out with the mj sender I will look into it a little more and let you know how mine worked and why.

Mine has the baffle. I know it took my awhile to get it to sit in there. Not sure how it fit finally but, it did and seals well. If you can get it in just right it does work. It took some wiggling and some adjusting but did work. Fuel gauge is accurate to. If you have the option to go original I would go original but, if like me you have no option it will work.

You can use a inferred thermostat and point it at each exhaust tube coming right off the head and you will see if there are any inconsistency in temp. That is a great tool to have anyway. I bet there is not a problem. I think I remember noticing the same thing once when I pulled number 1 for something I was doing on my Cherokee. probably just not real noticeable at idle.

I found a decent price on a 30 with an arb and 4.56 gears here. It is out of a TJ though. That would mean it is low pinion right? I can't tell the pictures are from the front of it. Not sure if I would want it or not.

I installed the c-rok kit. It looks nice and bolts in. My frame developed small crack and my welder is having some warranty work done to it. To keep it from getting worse I ordered the c-rok kit due to it being bolt in. It is a nice setup and you will be happy with it.

This thread explains it all. There are some new findings on the last pages. http://comancheclub.com/topic/15047-ho-fuel-sending-unit/

For what year

Glad you said that. I was thinking about this swap but, using this jeep a lot on the trail that is very important to me. How much do you lose do you know?

took me about 30 minutes. I was not moving fast. I put both passenger tires on oil change ramps because I could not remember how much fuel was in there. I used a hammer and a screwdriver. Because the strainer and float are pointing in the opposite direction it seemed to take a while to set it in a place to seal. It felt like I was hitting a ledge or something but, pretty easy repair. Might need some fuel line since these don't have the 90* fittings.

So after having it in a week I will say it is more accurate than my Cherokee. In my Cherokee it stays pegged at full for about 100 miles. In the Comanche with this sending unit it sits at full and slowly works down till empty proportionally with the mileage.

It is here in Colorado. I wonder where it was taken I should call them

Yeah there was some kind of part number change. I think the one I got was a DHP in their computer box showed chp number their inventory scan gun showed the DHP part number when they scanned it.

Try pulling the taillight covers. Pull the bulbs out and try again. It may not be related to the fuel issue. It is very common to see the light bulb socket cause these issues in older trucks.

Try filling the tank and seeing how low it really is?

Nice! Looking good. I love it when people save these from getting crushed. Great Find!