JACKED88

Thanks! I know the electrical is an important part but I'm also concerned about tha spline counts. Underlined below are some differences I found between tha two t/cases. A 1994 and a 1989 have several differences. 1991-1995 DTS208-3 NP242J Select-Trac, 23 spline input, 27 spline rear slip, .750" exposed input shaft, fixed front yoke, tow piece tail shaft housing, w/1.750 exposed input shaft, fixed front yoke, tow piece tail shaft housing, w/1.75" speedo hole, tow wire shift indicator "in speedo housing" 1989-1990 DTS208-1 NP242J Select-TRac, 21 spline input, 27 spline rear slip, tow piece tail housing, fixed front yoke, 1.750" speedo hole, tow wire shift indicator "on tail housing", .750 exposed input shaft. A 94 AW4 and a 89 242 aint gonna work. :wall:

Simply .... Is a 4x4 AW4 out of a 1994 XJ a direct fit for a 1988 2x4 MJ? Also, will a 1989 242 t/c bolt up to a 94 AW4 4x4 trans? If none of the above, what combination will work in an 88 MJ? On another note; .... Whats up that local auto parts don't have our injector o-rings? They have um for 92 and up but not back. Whats everybody using? :dunno: Additional info on trans swap. I figure by now most of yall know I'm converting a 88 2x4 MJ to 4x4. For tha most part everything is done other than installing an AW4 4x4 trans and t/case. Its currently running and driving with a 2x4 AW4. Remember that 89 4x4 XJ Limited I bought as a trans and t/c donor? Well, I still havent decided if I wanna keep it in tact and sell it as a running vehicle or part it out and use the questionable AW4 thats in it. I say questionable because it has 170K miles on it and the fluid has a slight burnt smell to it. That and having driven it several times totaling about 50 miles I'm still not sure its shifting right. I figure it's still working good enough to make somebody a good huntin truck for several years but not good enough for a daily driver. So ....... I found a guy who has a 1994 4x4 AW4 trans out of an XJ with just over 100k on it. (106,???) He claims it was a good working trans prior to removable. However, he doesnt have a 242 t/case to go with it. Now, although the 1989 AW4 I have is questionable, I'm pretty sure the 1989 242 t/c I have is good. Back to my original question; are those to pcs compatible with each other? (a 1994 4x4 AW4 and a 1989 242 transfer case)

Had a TBI 2.8 in a 86 S-10 Blazer. Tha wife put over 200,000 miles on it and the only thing I had to do to tha motor itself was replace tha water pump and intake gasket. It was still running fine when we traded it in on another vehicle. No, it wasnt tha fastest nore did it have a lot of power for pulling but as a daily driver in my opinion there's nothing wrong with tha 2.8's. Like any other engine, it all depends on how you drive it and how you maintain it.

CL ads ........... :needpics: I don't waste my time lookin at ads if they don't have pix. There's no excuse for not including pix in a free ad. Especially since just about everybody either has a digital camera or a phone that has one built in it. Can't tell ya how many CL ads I've e-mailed about some good to be true priced vehicles and receive back some devastating sob story on why they need to sell a vehicle that happens to be located clear across tha country from tha city its listed in. They tell you they wanna do the deal through ebay for your protection and they'll have it shipped to your location as soon as you give them all your info and the ebay deal is confirmed. :huh???: Are these people frickin nuts or what??? Who tha hell in their right mind falls for that sh-t??? I was told one time that they were selling their sons car who had been killed by a drunk driver while driving his girlfriends car to his little brothers 5th birthday party. That they wanted it sold quickly because it brought back to many memories of him and thats why they were selling it so cheap. Thats just tha short version of tha b/s story I was told. Why do these scammers think we wanna hear some b/s devastating story? All we wanna hear about is tha damn car. Not how their husband ran off and left um penny-less with 3 kids and all tha bills. (thats another one I got)

Wow!!! That brings back some great memories. I had a 1974 SL350 for 3-4 years. It got stolen while I was visiting a buddy at tha hospital. He was there due to a wreck he had on his bike. To make things worst, the following week I rode with another friend in his wheelie pulling convertible 69 Camero to visit again and his car got stolen out of tha same parking lot. Never saw my bike again but we did find tha Camero. Or at least what was left of it. I still have a little 1981 XL185. Its in in good condition but I havent ridden it in several years. I know a guy who has a 1987 XL250 I've been wanting to buy. Saw him a few weeks ago and ask if he still had it and he said he does. Said he wouldnt sell it out from under me so I hope to be able to go get it in tha next couple of months. Its also in good condition but it too hasnt run in several years due to needing a part for one of the carbs.

For $200 bucks if its all there and in decent shape just buy tha thing and worry about whats wrong with it later. If you don't git it running you could part it out for more than $200 bucks.

http://houston.craigslist.org/cto/1873645962.html

The age range we were given is pretty rough. 25-50 years old pending habitat. Tha river it was caught in is perfect habitat for um so we're gonna estimate its age to be about 30 years old. Although it probably should have been released, my son was pretty excited about catching such a big fish so he brought it home to show it off. So no, it didnt git released. It was given to a man who likes to eat um therefore its death wasnt a total waste. He (my son) has caught others including a 5 1/2 footer that have all been released. Although I agree the fish should have been released, I can't say I would have done any different. Knowing how many of these fish are in that river, like him I don't think at tha time I would have been thinking about its age or its need to be conserved. With that said, I don't think he'll be bringing any more home with him. A picture speaks a thousand words and I think that'll be good enough now that he's gottin this big catch out of his system.

One of my sons has been doin a little gar fishin in tha Brazos River. A couple of days ago he shows up at tha house with this pre-historic monster; My son Sterling is tha one in black. One of his buddies is holding tha 7 foot 2 inch 160 pound fish. Had to weigh tha beast with my game scale. Two days later he caught another one that was about 5 1/2 feet long. He didnt bring it home so I don't know what that one weighed. Along with these big ones he's caught at least a dozen smaller ones in tha 3+ foot range. He's been baitin his hook with fresh cut shad he catches with his cast net. Needless to say it seems to be workin. Oh, I forgot to mention he caught tha 7 foot monster out of a 10' jon boat. He couldnt git it in tha boat so he had to beach it on a sandbar about 1/2 mile from where he started. According to Texas Parks and Wildlife tha fish qualifies him for some kind of a prize. He's supposed to fill out a form and submit it to um in order to claim whatever prize it is he may be eligible for. Maybe he'll git something like a new rod and or real. I'm thinkin a lifetime fishing license would be nice.

Alldata says the recalls for a 1990 4x4 4.0 Comanche are as follows; 1990 Jeep Truck Comanche 4WD L6-242 4.0L VIN L FI Vehicle Level Technical Service Bulletins Recalls Emissions Emissions Information Number Date Title 562 04/01/1994 Recall - O2 Sensor and CCV Harness 561 10/01/1993 Recall - Oxygen Sensor 297T 10/01/1990 Recall - Timer Fuse Missing ------------------------------------------------------------- Generals Information Number Date Title 296T 11/01/1990 Campaign - Transfer Case Will Not Shift -------------------------------------------------------------- Safety Information Number Date Title 747 03/01/1998 Recall - Front Brake Rotors 301T 03/01/1991 Recall - Throttle Position Sensor NHTSA90V177000 09/28/1990 Recall 90V177000: Defective Throttle Position Sensor --------------------------------------------------------------- Looked up 1988 as well; ------------------------ Recalls Information Number Date Title 562 04/01/1994 Recall - O2 Sensor and CCV Harness 561 10/01/1993 Recall - Oxygen Sensor 316T 07/01/1992 Recall - Excessive NOx & Exhaust Manifold ---------------------------------------------------------------- What tha hell. Here's 1989 too ----------------------------- Vehicle Level Technical Service Bulletins Recalls Emissions Emissions Information Number Date Title 562 04/01/1994 Recall - O2 Sensor and CCV Harness 561 10/01/1993 Recall - Oxygen Sensor ----------------------------------------------------------------- Vehicle Level Technical Service Bulletins Recalls Generals Generals Information Number Date Title 277T 08/01/1989 Campaign - 4WD Transfer Case Snap Ring ------------------------------------------------------------------ Vehicle Level Technical Service Bulletins Recalls Safety Safety Information Number Date Title 301T 03/01/1991 Recall - Throttle Position Sensor NHTSA90V177000 09/28/1990 Recall 90V177000: Defective Throttle Position Sensor Didnt see anything on parking brake or cat/converter. This alldata info was obtained from the version used at the Honda dealership my son works at.

Mine took a small hit at one time but thats not why it sags. Needing to tow a trailer but not being able to find a receiver hitch, I had to install one of those little bolt under bumper receivers. Having that receiver bolted to tha bottom side of tha bumper plus having to use a 4.5" drop ball creates too much leverage for the bumper bracket bolts to support. No matter how tight I tried to get um the bumper would still sag/twist downward after a few miles of towing. After jacking it back up where it belongs I put a couple of spot welds on tha brackets to keep um from twisting downwards. It still has a little sag/twist though. :wall: Pretty sure my front bumper is rolled under a little as well. Looks like somebody musta hit something square on or they were pushing something by tha way its rolled damn near even on both sides. :dunno:

I had one those. Does yours have tha high/low gears?

If I was in the market to buy another atv it would be a Suzuki King Quad. In my opinion its tha biggest bang for tha buck out there. don't let anybody tell you Suzuki's are no good. I've got an 04 Arctic Cat 400i 2x4 that thanks to all my sons has been through nothing short of pure hell and the only thing I've had to replace had nothing to do with the engine. Had to replace the wheel bearing again thanks to my sons getting it confused with a boat and washed um out. :nuts: In case you don't know, Arctic Cats and Kawasaki's run Suzuki engines. We've owned all three plus a couple of Honda's. Again, in my opinion there's nothing wrong with Suzuki's. Even after everything my sons have put it through in tha past 6 years it still runs fine. Starts every time with no smoke and no noise. Good luck in your search. I'm sure you'll be happy to be wheelin again on whatever you decide to buy.

No!!! If you don't have a set of a/c gauges Do Not open the high side valve while filling the system. Without a set of gauges, there's no reason for you to open it. $200 bucks for a vacuum and charge??? Oh hell no!!! :no: First of all you can build your own vacuum pump using an old refrigerator or freezer compressor for about $5 bucks. I've got one that'll pull 30 lbs of vac on a system in less than a minute. (baring any major leaks) If you've opened the system to replace any parts, you'll need to pull a vacuum to dry out any moisture that may have gottin into tha system. About an hour should do unless you've used a solvent and compressed air to clean and blow out tha lines. (advised) In that case pull your vac for at least an additional hour. (3-4 would be better) You can not pull a vac on the system without a set of a/c gauges. You'll have to buy a set or pay somebody to do it. With tha money your gonna have to pay somebody to do it you could buy a set. A decent set runs about $100 bucks. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/access ... 54345_0_0_ http://www.autozone.com/autozone/access ... 52193_0_0_ Other than the instructions that came with your kit, there's numerous sites where you can read detailed info on recharging your system. A quick Google should get you plenty of results. As for building a vac pump out of an old ref/freezer compressor, all you have to do is install a nipple onto the inlet side of the compressor. Tha nipple needs to be tha right size to fit tha middle/yellow a/c gauge hose. Leave the outlet line open. On mine, I cut tha freon lines about 4" long. Then for installation of a flared adapter fitting, I flared the end of the inlet line, installed the adapter and then installed my hose nipple. Done. (other than hookin up tha power cord)

Yep, thats it. Thanks guys. Only having whats left of the glue lines to go by, I hadnt noticed the stripe below tha molding. Now I see in yalls pics and on my truck that the lower stripe is actually one pc from just above tha rocker to above the body line. Then of course the pin stripes. At least I was right about it being a fade from light to dark. Anybody know what colors were available? Surely all body colors didnt git tha same light gray/silver to black fade. Dura liner is a good alternative for paint or stickers. One of my sons did that to tha bumpers and kick panels on his 99 WJ. Looked pretty good.

I've yet to see another MJ/Eliminator with the stripes mine had. The previous owner removed tha stripes and body molding but you can still see where they were. (see pic) Tha first stripe above the molding was on the angled part of the body line and about 1 1/4" wide. It went down tha side and all tha way around tha back of tha truck including across tha tail gate. Above that the first of the four smaller stripes also went all tha way down tha side and across tha tail gate. The three above that stopped at the tail lights. Anybody ever seen that design? If so, how bout what color it might have been? I'm thinkin a darker gray fading lighter as the stripes progressively git smaller. Oops, for got to mention the four smaller stripes get smaller as they go up. Tha top one is only about 1/8" wide.

Here's my thought. Put 4x4 under tha short bed for off road and keep tha smoother riding long bed 2x4 for tha street.

Yeah, thats perfect!!!. :thumbsup: You already have a great looking truck and I think the design you already have highlights it perfectly. I understand wantin to go with the original design but there's something to be said about having a one of a kind. Its your truck so naturally you can do as you like but I don't think the original design in black and gray is gonna highlight it like what you have now. My truck has its original gray paint. When I'm ready to paint it, I'm gonna paint it gray again and possibly do tha same stripe design except probably a little narrower and starting the stripes at the bottom just behind the front wheel well. (I don't have side moldings) Thinkin that'll make it look like the front wheels are kinda throwing tha stripes up tha sides. Havent decided on a stripe color but I know it won't be bla lookin black or gray. Your red looks great on tha silver but I'm thinkin something a little darker like a wine or maroon color on what will be a darker gray than what your silver is. It'll be a while before paint start flyin so I've got plenty of time to decide. Good luck on your decision. I'm sure it'll still look great with whatever design you end up with.

Nice Truck ---- I'm referring to the MJ of course! THANKS!!! Now that I've done some of the repairs it desperately needed, I love it and wouldnt trade it for nothin. (including a ZR-2) As before, I've owned several XJ's and always liked MJ's but never saw myself owning one. Now that I do I like it better than any other mid sized truck out there. I think part of that is the looks I get from other 4x4 enthusiast. Some of um act like they've never seen an MJ before. :???: Ya gotta love it. :thumbsup:

How ....... Because I found one before I found a Chevy ZR-2. Why ....... Because it was cheaper than a ZR-2. Naaa, I've owned numerous XJ's and have always liked MJ's. However, to be honest I wasnt looking to buy an MJ until I ran across this one. Even knowing it needed some work It was to good a deal on a rust free near perfect interior truck to pass up. For those who may not know what a ZR-2 is; Look good lifted too;

Your truck looks great as it is. I like tha stripes. I say leave um and add ELIMINATOR like tha 88-89 has on tha bed side just above um. Your stripes would enhance ELIMINATOR by giving it an underlined effect. I'd put it so ELIMINATOR and or the "R" was even with the tip of your bottom stripe. My 2 cents.

OK, so lets say I leave the system in its factory configuration other than setting the load sensing valve in a fixed position. What have I defeated other than the progressive braking of load sensing valve? BTW, I don't have a rust or corrosion problem. All of the lines look great as does the rest of the under carriage. Knowing I don't have a rust problem and the lines are in good condition, I'm not worried about having an extra line exposed to the elements or having one explode due to rust or corrosion. Back to my problem of the brake light not coming on when I try to shuttle the emergency valve. Like in most vehicles that light is supposed to come on momentarily while your cranking the engine and then turn off once it starts. And, although on a different circuit, it should also come on whenever you have the e-brake set. In both of those functions the light is coming on. So why won't it come on when I try to shuttle tha valve? I'm gonna try it again. Maybe for whatever reason we missed seeing the light due to the bright @$$ lighting in my nephews shop building. As it is, my peddle goes about half way to the floor before it starts getting hard to push. It'll go even further pending how much pressure I apply. Thats actually an improvement since it'll no longer go all tha way to the floor. I'm old school. We didnt have all this new fangled safety crap in tha vehicles we learned to drive in. If I had my way, I'd have one line coming out of the master cylinder T'd off and going straight to tha front brakes and another coming out for tha rears like they used to be without all this other crap. Even then I never though tha rear brakes worked as good as tha fronts. Can't say I remember tha front catchin up with tha rear to often either. (unless we did it purposely with tha e-brake) I don't have a problem leaving the brakes in their factory configuration so long as they actually work without having to stand on um. Out of all tha XJ's we've owned through tha years, I've never though tha brakes were worth a crap in none of um. Same goes for this MJ.

Sorry to have to drag up an old subject but I've got a problem with the above bleeding procedure. Did everything like it says but when I open the front bleeder to "shuttle the by-pass differential valve" the brake warning light does not come on. Yes, I had tha key turned on. I pushed tha peddle to tha floor numerous times but no light. Even tried opening both front bleeders but still no light. Would the arm on the height sensing valve being disconnected effect my bleeding procedure? Tha pre-owner never hooked it up after doing the SOA. The arm is currently tied up at about a 45* angle. Speaking of which, with the height sensing valve arm being fixed in an upward 45* position, wouldnt that mimic a load being on the truck and therefore allow more pressure to the rear brakes? One more thing ...... I've been reading all the brake threads I could find and have come to the conclusion that I'm totally confused on weather the rear brakes have both a proportioning and a height sensing valve. Some people are talking about the height sensing valve where others are talking about a proportioning valve. :hmm: So which is it or do we have both? I know we have a valve and or distribution block below the master cylinder. Which is it? A proportioning valve or a distribution block? If its a distribution block, where is our proportioning valve? Or, does the height sensing valve serve as a proportioning valve? If the height sensing valve serves as a proportioning valve, that might explain why everybody calls tha same part by two different names) :dunno: Either way nobody seems to like the stock system and either wants to re-route lines and remove the height sensing / proportioning valve completely or replace it with one from an XJ. Here's what I'm thinkin. We don't actually have a proportioning valve like found on most vehicles. We have a Load Sensing Proportioning Valve that controls how much rear brake pressure is applied pending how much weight is on the rear axle. The body mounted load sensing valve is mechanically controlled via an arm thats connected to the differential. As weight is increased in the rear of the truck, the mechanical arm moves upwards opening the valve allowing more brake pressure to be applied to the rear brakes. Somebody on here claims the load sensing valve doesnt open or close anything. I disagree. If that were true, it wouldnt serve any purpose at all. How else would it be able to control how much braking pressure to apply to the rear brakes? A valve by any name is a devise used to control the movement of gases or liquids. On a vehicle, weather its a mechanically controlled Load Sensing Proportioning Valve or a spring loaded pressure sensitive proportioning valve the end result is the same. Its still a valve that opens and closes controlling the amount of pressure applied to the brakes. Assuming I'm correct on how the system works, I'm gonna leave my rear Valve in place but disconnected from the dif. I'll set it in a fixed position as if the truck has a light load in it or with the amount of rear braking I feel is sufficient for normal driving conditions. If the front brakes have to work a little harder due to a heavier load .... so be it. Pads are cheap and easy to replace. I would however like a better explanation on how the emergency braking system works. Talkin about tha system that kicks in if you loose front brake pressure. Is that what yall are talking about bypassing by re-routing the rear lines in the distribution block? Or is the re-routing part of removing the load sensing valve? Either way I wanna dump the emergency system. Couldnt I re-route tha rear line at tha distribution block but in my case still run tha line through the load sensing valve so I can control my rear braking?

There's two styles of cup holders for XJ's and MJ's. Here's a link to some pix of both. http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=htt ... s%3Disch:1 OOPS ... there was a pic of both styles but for whatever reason tha center mount style isnt shown. No matter. Everybody knows what one looks like. I have tha side mount style in mine. Works fine but cramps passenger leg room a bit. Not a problem since I'm usually runnin solo. Since MJ's don't have the e-brake in the console, having this style allows open access to that center hole. As for your latch adjustment problem ...... take it off and put a spacer under it.

Only a Texan could think of this. From the county where drunk driving is considered a sport, comes this true story. Recently a routine police patrol parked outside a bar in Austin, Texas. After last call the officer noticed a man leaving the bar so apparently intoxicated that he could barely walk. The man stumbled around the parking lot for a few minutes, with the officer quietly observing. After what seemed an eternity in which he tried his keys on five different vehicles, the man managed to find his truck and fall into it. He sat there for a few minutes as a number of other patrons left the bar and drove off. Finally he started the truck, switched the wipers on and off, (it was a fine, dry summer night) flicked the blinkers on and off a couple of times, honked the horn and then switched on the lights. He moved the vehicle forward a few inches, reversed a little and then remained still for a few more minutes as some more of the other patrons' vehicles left. At last, when his was the only truck left in the parking lot, he pulled out and drove slowly down the road. The police officer, having waited patiently all this time, now started up his patrol car, put on the flashing lights, promptly pulled the man over and administered a breathalyzer test. To his amazement, the breathalyzer indicated no evidence that the man had consumed any alcohol at all! Dumbfounded, the officer said, 'I'll have to ask you to accompany me to the police station. This breathalyzer equipment must be broken'. 'I doubt it,' said the truly proud Texan. 'Tonight I'm the designated decoy.'