JACKED88

Thanks!!! I appreciate all the info and tips I an git. That'll come in very helpful prior to my distroying a perfectly good set of gears. :wall: Naaa, I'm actually pretty good with a wrench and having been a machinest for about 15 years I'm pretty sure I can grind down a few teeth for clearances. As for seting up tha ring and pinion, I'm pretty sure I can do it. (along with a little help from something we as men would NEVER git caught looking at much less reading. I think their called INSTRUCTIONS. :???: :rotf:

OK, so I'd be better off with a 231 t/c intended for offroad use only. That suits me just fine since I'll likely never need 4x4 on tha streets. The only time I might need 4x4 on pavement would be to pull my boat up a boat ramp. I'm thinkin Aussie in tha front and a Trutrac in tha rear would be tha best setup for my application. While in 2x4 I'll maintain near stock driveabilty on tha street but have tha advantage of a locked front for offroad 4x4 use.

Here's something I read about lockers and have a question about ....... "Automatic lockers cannot be used in front axles of constant 4Wheel Drive vehicles. Some vehicle manufacturers offer a part-time 4WD option and automatic lockers can be installed." OK ..... so does that mean while offroad you can't run in full-time 4WD inwhich allows tha front and rear axles to turn at different speeds? If so, tha full-time 4x4 capability of a 242 t/c is then rendered unuseable and or worthless. I don't git it. Why would it make any difference to a locker in your front axle if your rear axle was turning faster than it is? Wouldnt each axle still act independently regaurdless of front/rear wheel speeds? Take our trucks for example. Lets say you have lockers in both axles. Now knowing that the rear of our trucks are considerably lighter than tha front, it would stand to reason that the rear axle/wheels could spin easier and therefore faster than the heavier front axle/wheels. How could that effect tha lockers in each individual axle? Particularly tha front from what their saying. Any thoughts on my previous post?

Cool. Their a little less proud of um too. Thanks!!! Whats this? (NEEDS NOTCHED CROSS PIN OR GRIND) I assume there must be some kind of a clearance issue with 4.88's. ????? don't you either have to grind a notch in the ends of tha pins or grind clearance in tha dif housing so tha pins don't hit it? Oh, I lost that bet on who makes tha gears I found on ebay. Sent an email asking who makes um and got a reply back saying thier USA Standard. Going back a ways, most everybody agreed that Aussie's are tha best bang for tha buck as far as lockers go. However, if I wanted to go with an Aussie in tha front and a LSD in tha rear, who's LSD works/is tha best? From what I read, Auburn, Eaton and Detriot appear to be tha top three. Oddly enough, each of those are designed differently. Auburn/cone driven, Eaton/clutch driven and Detroit/gear driven. Which is better, cone, gear, or clutch? I kinda like tha Auburn but I'm not so sure about their steel or steel cone design. Same for tha gear driven Detroit. Two steel surfaces sliding/slipping against each other sounds like they'd be prone to getting hot and galding. (regaurdless of lube) Clutches on the other hand were designed to slide/slip against each other. Maybe with all tha new technology those steel on steel units are OK but we all know that clutches have been well proven to work and last for years. :dunno: Keep in mind that I don't hard core offroad. Just some occasional muddy roads/trials/paths. Nore will I drive my truck enough to wear out clutches any time soon.

Superior has um. Thier pretty proud of um too. http://www.superioraxlegear.com/chrysle ... 10605.html These are a little less but don't say who makes um. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CHRYSLER ... ccessories I searched countless manufacturers and suppliers who sell several different makes of gears. Superior was the the only manufacturer I could find that listed 4.88's for an 8.25. I'm bettin tha ones on ebay are Superior's as well.

In other words ..... flip a coin. Heads/4.56's Tails/4.88's Here we go ........... Tails it is. :thumbsup: OK, so even if 4.88's are a little low for mostly street driving, I'll have plenty of power to chunk mud from all four corners. To be honest its gonna boil down to $$$. Whichever sets I can git tha best deal on at tha time. I'm sure either would work fine. Now, who's gears? Motive, Superior, Richmond, Other???

With 33" tires and 4.88 gears, in overdrive 70 MPH is 2700 RPM. That's not excessively "low" gearing, that's right about where you want to be. I try to do as little freeway driving as humanly possible, :nuts: so going with tha lower 4.88's shouldnt be a problem for rural street driving.

================================================================================================== I'm not sure what a used one is worth either but I do know what a new one sells for. http://www.quadratec.com/products/76104 ... QSHOPGBASE $325 sounds a little steep knowing you can buy a new one for $110 more. I appreciate the offer but I just don't have tha cash so I'm gonna have to pass. Thanks again.

Was that running in overdrive? I read up a little on a Powertrax. http://www.4x4wire.com/reviews/no-slip/review/? Why are you taking it out? No problem waiting. I can't afford to do squat right now. Maybe I'll be able to swing it in a few weeks. Otherwise thanks for tha offer and do what ya gotta do.

That would mean tha t/c must have tha control valve on it or in it with 3 lines connected to it. One primary vac line from tha intake and two more going out to the CAD for engage and disengage. Thats so easy even a caveman can do it. :rotf: 4.88's huh? Sounds pretty low. Is that keeping in mind that the only hill's we have to climb around here are freeway overpasses?

Thanks for tha "how to" write ups and pix guys. Their both very helpful. You said you traced your vac lines back to "a vacuum block that's on the driver's side at the tranny/transfer case to a block". So what controls tha vacuum? My truck started out as a 2x4 and may not have some of the 4x4 components. With that in mind, I need to know what components are needed for tha 4x4 system to work properly, which components I may already have and where everything is supposed to be located. (switches, wires, valves, whatever)

I know I should do tha front first but since my up grade to a 8.25 axle is hanging from an engine hoist in tha garage I figured I might as well git it set up tha way I want it before I install it. Anybody got an answer to my question about not having any vac lines on tha CAD? No lines = engaged or dis-engaged??? We'll git to how and where to hook um up later. :hmm: Thanks everybody for stickin with me through all this. I know in my quest for knowledge ends up beating yall to death with questions. Sorry about that but I can't help it. I gotta have all my ducks in a row before I pull tha trigger on buying something. On my budget I only git one shot to git it right. With yalls help and sharing of knowledge I'm not only better informed but also know whatever I buy has been tried and tested by tha best. :bowdown: Thanks again. BTW ...... My next quiz for yall is gonna be what gears will be best with a 4.0, AW4 and 33" tires. Considering an AW4 is an o/d trans, I'm leanin towards 4.56's. :dunno:

can't have disasters happenen. I would never run in 4x4 without both axles being engaged. Other than possibly distroying something on the driver side axle, running in 4x4 with only one axle engaged would pretty much defeat tha purpose of my installing a locker. Only while running in 2x4 would I dis-engage the axle. On tha flip side, only while offroad in 4x4 would I engage tha front axle. Keep in mind that living in southern Texas we very rarely see snow or even ice so I'll likely never need 4 wheel drive on tha street. Only while offroad and crawling through mud will I want or need 4 w/d. Questions of tha day ....... When offroading on hard dry ground, will a locker ratchet when you turn or will tha tires slide enough to compensate for tha difference in wheel speed? Again I'm just trying to git a feel for how a locker acts under verious situations. I assume the answer to the above question will depend on how much gas your giving tha moter and how much torque is being applied to tha locker making it lock harder/tighter. That is correct isnt it? Tha more torque applied, tha harder/tighter it locks. ????? If you don't have any vac lines on your CAD, is tha pass/side axle engaged or dis-engaged?

What do you mean by a disconnectable spool and doin it for less? If you talkin about an "e" - or air locker, all tha ones I've seen are $600-$800 bucks. I can buy an Aussie and fab a home grown cable for under $400. OK, so maybe not actually a home grown cable. Something like this but with a coated/insulated cable.http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/home ... up-595515/

OK, so while in 2x4 with tha passenger side axle disconnected via CAD, tha locker won't recognize any difference in wheel speeds when turning and therefore stay locked. Only while in 4x4 with both axles engaged will tha locker ratchet when turning.

Thanks for reply. :thumbsup: I've read up on numerous different lockers and although they do give you some basic info on how their products work, they don't really go into detail. What you wrote makes better since to me. Thanks again. As far as using tha CAD to disconnect the axle, I'll likely install tha cable setup for positive operation. When I ask about disconnecting the axle and eliminating tha need for locker ratcheting, I was refering to while its in 2x4. However that raises another question ....... problem is I'm not sure how to word it. :hmm: Lets say you have a locker in your D30 axle. Your in 2x4 mode with the passenger side axle disconnected via CAD. Will the driver side axle still ratchet tha locker when turning or will the locker remain locked and as with an open diff continue to rotate tha diff carrier? Seems to me the driver side axle would still ratchet tha locker since your not applying any engine torque keeping tha locker, locked.

hmmm. got a link to that review? I always thought that situation was caused by a spooled front. :dunno: :doh: Do you have any idea what your askin??? I was just surfin tha net lookin for all tha info I could find on lockers and that was just one of countless reviews I read. Chances of finding it again is slim to none but I'll try. :papers: Another locker question ........ Other than gear lube, what keeps tha teeth on a locker from rounding off and or wearing down with all the ratcheting they do when turning? From what I can tell by looking at pix, tha teeth on a lunchbox locker arent very big to begin with. Seems like they'd wear down pretty quickly especially when installed in a daily driver. Using the drive dogs found in a lower gear case of an outboard motor as an example (and considering I know quite a bit about um) the worst thing you can do is ratchet those dogs when you put you boat into gear. If you've ever driven a boat you know what I'm talking about. They all do it if you don't shift um firmly. Although those dogs normally last for a long time when shifted correctly, they do wear down. Especially if their ratcheted all tha time. (like a locker) My being concerned about locker wear brings me back to tha question I ask about having front axle engagement/dis-engagement control if you have a locker in a D30 front axle. Can't you still dis-engage tha passenger side axle by way of your axle disconnect, therefore eliminating tha need for tha locker to ratchet when turning?

Define "good." The Trac-Lok is a "good" limited slip, but it isn't a locker and it isn't ideal for serious, heavy duty off-road use. There is no speed at which it starts locking -- it isn't a locker. It uses clutches, which are always engaged (not "locked"). If the torque to one side exceeds that on the other side by a certain amount, the clutches let go and allow the two sides of the differential to slip -- hence the name limited slip. There is a heavier duty clutch type limited slip that is available for the Chrysler axle, from Auburn Gear. You can see a description of it here http://www.reiderracing.com/index.php?c ... _5852_5961 "good" One that frickin works!!! :rotf: One that gives you traction when and where you need it. Not "good". One that only spins tha wheel with tha least amout of traction. :shake: My bad. I knew tha clutches stay engaged while driving streight and then slip while making a turn or when traction differs. Don't know why I ask at what wheel speed they start locking. :dunno: Whatever I had in mind I know how a limited slip works. Kinda. "If the torque to one side exceeds that on the other side by a certain amount, the clutches let go and allow the two sides of the differential to slip -- hence the name limited slip." OK, but which side? I know it can be either side depending on the situation so lets use this for an example. Your in mud with one side of your truck down in a rut and the other on level ground. Obviously the one in the rut would require more torque to spin where as the one level ground would require less. Which side is gonna dis-engage? If the one in tha rut dis-engages then thats no different than an open diff that allows the wheel with the least traction to spin. If thats tha case, nothing would be gained by having a limited slip. A limited slip would have to work opposite of an open diff in order to give you traction where its needed the most. In tha rut. Oh, and I don't do "serious" offroading. Most of my miles are on tha street. My offroading consist of driving down often muddy roads/trails on level ground. No rock crawling, no mountain climbing or seeing how fast I can blast through a mud pit. Just picture slowly driving around on muddy deer camp roads/trails.

Not puttin a locker in my stock 35. Bought a 8.25 but havent installed it yet. Wanna git gears and a locker for it first. When you put a locker in tha front, don't you still have some front axle control by means of the D30's axle disconnect? Knowing tha drivers side axle is always spinning the differential when you have a locker installed, wouldnt the passenger side axle being disconnected help with steering in two wheel drive mode? Isnt there a good limited slip carrier for a 8.25? If there is I'd consider going that route for tha rear. I highly doubt I'd wear one out considering tha few miles I'll put on this truck in tha next 5 years or so. How well does the optional factory installed Trac-loc's work and at what wheel speed do they start locking? The only real experence I have with limited slips is from my hot rod days running 9" Ford rear ends out of 4x4 trucks that had limited slips. Those l/s diffs definately locked up with very little difference in right/left wheel speed. I would think these newer l/s diffs would work as good or better than what we had 25+ years ago. :dunno: Then again ...... maybe not. :hmm: EDIT ....... Assuming the Trac-loc's in the 8.25's are worth a damn, what all did they come in? (Jeeps, Chryslers, Dodges, Other?) Aslo what years? I know they were an option in 97 and up Cherokee's so wouldnt most 4x4 Dakota's and Durago's likely have um as well? EDIT ...... What about a Power lock?

Been readin up on lockers. Read a review saying that when your in loose sand or slick mud and have a locker in the rear, it tends to push your vehicle streight while trying to turn. That tha locker won't unlock since the sand/mud doesnt create enough resistance to unlock it. Being a 2x4 atv rider, I know that my streight axle definately tries to push my atv streight so I can see where the same could be true with a locked dif. However, I've also driven 4x4 atv's and know that the front wheel drive definately helps pull you around corners even though the rear is trying to push you streight? With that in mind, I would think tha same would be true having locked diff's in both front and rear of a vehicle. Bottom line ...... is having a locker in the rear necessarily a good idea to have for offroading through slick surface mud where steering is critical to keep you from bouncing off of trees? Also, who's lunchbox lockers offer tha biggest bang for you buck? Aussie, Lock Right, P.O.R.K., OTHER??? (Be nice if these $209 dollar PORK's are actually any good. http://www.performanceoffroadcenter.com ... ts_id=6046 Or are they like everything else ....... ya git what ya pay for.

That girl is a keeper!!! :thumbsup: Does she got any sisters??? :brows: I have a couple of sons that need tools. Maybe then they'd stay outa mine. :fs1:

This is what I DIDN'T git. :( But you can bet your a-ss it was on my list. :drool:

Trapping has been pretty slow for tha last month or so. I've only caught about 8-10 since Thanksgiving. Here's a few pix of tha two I caught last night. Both aughta weigh 150+ pounds. I'll know their exact weight tomorrow when we run um across tha scales.

Thats pretty nice lookin. Somewhat taller than what I'm wantin to build but it obviously works well for him. One of my sons just got a kayak. I don't have a frickin clue why. :dunno: I havent seen it yet but I hope its one you sit "on" and not "in" so his dumb as-s don't drown himself. :shake: (same son that slammed his ZJ into tha curb and tree) :dunce:

Nope. Not yet. It never was exactly on my priority list. That and I'm kinda hung up on how I'm gonna mount it to tha bed drilling as few holes as possible. I had already figured on using the bed rail mounting bolts but its gonna need more than just those. Thinking about welding two 1 1/2" wide pc of flat steel to the front side of tha light bar uprights. Those pcs will go down between tha bed and tha cab with a bolt going through them and through tha front of tha bed. That should make it rigid enough to stop most forward/backward movement and will have only drilled two holes in tha front wall of my bed. Side to side movement should be minimal anyway. I'll let ya know when I git back on tha light bar. Right now my attention has been focused on gathering all tha materials needed to build a 5'x14' utillity/atv/hog trap trailer. Speaking of hogs ......... :wall: I've only caught 5 in tha last 3 weeks. I'm thinkin I'd help if all tha oak trees werent droppin acorns like automatic feeders. :shake: