NorthWoods

I believe that anyone who has never done that to their renix would be surprised by the results.

You would want to follow cruisers tip at cruiser54.com to set the clocking of your distributer.

Check your timing

4.56 gears on a set of 31's is probably a safe bet behind your 2.5. Ive run gears from 4.56 behind a chevy 2.2 with 33's to 4.10's behind a cherokee with 33's to 5.38's behind a chevy 383 stroker with 44's to a full size jeep with 5.13's and 40's. Thats just vehicles I've changed the gears in, let alone ones I've bought with swapped gears like 3.73's with a chevy 4.3 and 35's. Been there done it. I'm a firm believer in power to tires without loosing top end within reason and not over working a motor to turn tires with a unrealistic gear ratio. For example 4.88's or lower behind a 2.5 jeep motor with who knows how many miles on it. Me personally, I don't want to turn 3000 rpm to go 70. What am I gonna turn to do 80 mph if I want to?

Been trying to get ahold of him about a few things he has, havnt gotten a response.

I'm looking for a winch bumper for my 87 I'm building. Not really looking for prerunner type bumpers but i guess I'm open if the price is right. Either have cash or renix era comanche parts to trade.

Yes at low speed less throttle will need to be applied in order to accelerate. 4.88's will require a higher rpm to achieve higher speeds. With 33's behind a 4 banger 4.88s would be great but with 31's you are going to turn significantly higher rpm to do say 65-70 mph.

4.10 should be perfect with 31's. Anything lowet then that you will really start affecting how many rpms you are turning at highway speed along with lower mpg because you'll be turning higher rpm to go the same speed. Maybe you could go to 4.56 but I wouldnt recommend it unless you don't care about highway speed and fuel consumption.

Yes 1800 lbs for 3+2 and 1340 for 3+1. Both provide the same ride height, the 3 +2 is a 3/4 inch thicker pack but also has 3/4 inch less arch.

Still looking for right side lower dash bezel, full width lower dash panel and long visors. All in burgandy.

Ive got a blue one with a shift boot. $10 plus shipping.

I don't know that I worded my response correctly but reducing current through your switches is what I would consider lightening your load. I understand that you are still going to draw the same amount of volts no matter what, as long as your system is able to produce it. I guess its better not to confuse people with my way of thinking.

I am in need of rear leafs no matter what, so once they are installed I will figure out what height I am going to use in the front. 5.5 coils will be too short for the clayton setup I will be using in the front. The clayton setup requires a minimum of 6 inch front lift for proper clearance. I believe iam pretty set with using their 6.5 coils up front and I am trying to get the rear up to a matching height. At this point I am just looking for which replacement leaf springs are worth spending my money on.

Well does anyone have any reccomendations on finding factory rear spring replacements? I keep seeing springs from crown spring but they say they fit mjs and xjs. I was under the assumption that mj springs are longer then xj springs by a few inches. I could be wrong though. I also came across springs from sd truck and general spring, both of those appear to be mj specific.

I wish the previous owner of my truck was a little bit brighter and atleast kept all of the factory relays in place instead of hard wiring 6 circuits directly to the battery. I am in the process of rewiring the entire truck and will be adding relays for the blower motor as well as one for the electric fan I will be running. I am a huge believer in lightning the load of your electrical system.

Yes there is a red wire going to the fog lamps. Not sure what would cause the wire to corrode at a faster rate then any of the other wires would. Maybe the end of the wire where there isn't any casing on it could get corroded from contact with contaminents but other then that I don't know what to tell you. If you never plan to use it, I would trim it back to a point where the wire is solid, put a small wire nut on itand shrink tube it to protect it for possible future use.

Yeah I understand that. I guess I just wanted to make sure that those factory spec numbers were actually correct. I have a set of 3+1's in there now and think I will go with another set of 3+1's for rear suspension flex. I'm sure I will be loosing payload capacity but I'm not planning on doing much hauling with this rig when its finished anyway. Maybe I'll see how much I gain from a new set of leafs then decide from there how much more I need to account for.

I'm gonna say that crankcase ventilation is a strong possibility in the symptoms you are showing. You seem to be building a ton of pressure until you warm up and whatever clog you have is giving way and allowing the pressure to work its way down.

Same as eagle with 10w40 in the summer and 5w30 in the winter.

You really think that my leafs could have 2 inches of sag? I mean they are probably 28 years old but they are not flat by any means. Using the guide on here for factory ride height it says that the height on a factory 4x4 in the rear is 9 1/4 inches from top of axle tube to bottom of frame. I am only getting a measurement of 13 inches with a soa. so really it only gained 3 3/4 inches. I'm sure that I have some droop but do you really think I could achieve another 2 1/4 inches from a new set of factory springs? Looking at replacement springs I see 3+2 or 3+1. I am assuming a 3+1 would allow more flex but would they have the same height or relativaly close payload. Any suggestions on good replacement springs that will allow good flex to match up with the long arm kit I install on the front.

So I bought my project truck and it has a soa swap in the rear and 4.5 inch coils in the front. I'm looking to swap the front coils out for 6.5 inch clayton coils. It appears that the soa swap on the dana 44 gained 4 inches when done compared to factory height specs. I guess what I'm trying to come up with is how to gain 2 inches in the rear to level the ride height. Does anyone make 2 inch lift springs. Do you think a new set of factory springs with an aal would net me 2 inches? I do not want to use lift block and would prefer to stay away from longer shackles but will go that route if necessary.

Make sure that the nuts used to hold the flanges to the tcase are lock tighted on. High torque will back the nuts right off and you will lose a drive shaft. Been there, done it on my fsj. Actually broke the front axle shift rail for my twin stick right off at the case. Changing shift rails is probably the worst part of working on a 300.

Couple good scores it looks like. I'll be heading to the yard tomorrow if it doesn't snow.

Bump

I'm in maine and I've got a connector for you. If you pay the couple bucks for shipping it'll go in the mail tomorrow.