NorthWoods

What do you mean, no need for a slip yoke when going spring over? I don't know how saggy your leaf springs may be in your truck, but with good springs you are moving your shaft outward in the ballpark of 2+ inches You are only going to have 1" of shaft in the tail housing without a sye. Drive line vibration is a definite possibility at this point, let alone the possibility of slipping the shaft out of the housing if you were flexed and pulling a rear axle against an object (rock comes to mind). There is no chance I would ever lift 4+ inches and not install an sye. May just be my opinion, but I feel as though I tend to do things that will save me problems in the future and possible broken parts.I'm not sure if you've ever seen the damage caused by a drive shaft coming loose at highway speeds? Might even roll you over!

If you are planning on 33's and primary use being in the mud and snow, you would probably be happiest with 4.56's. I would not go any higher then 4.10's. It is really dependent on what you would like to spend. search through naxja classifieds and you might be able to locate a set of used 4.10 or 4.56 axles in your area. They are uncommon but some mj's with 2.5 motor and auto trans has 4.10's out of the factory but you are gonna be stuck with a dana 35 rear axle if you went that route. I would say you are best off to find a dana 44 rear, followed by a ford 8.8 if you were to want rear disc brakes. Like I said already, it's really dependent on what your looking to spend. Ideally I would run a minimum of 4.5 inches of lift to have 33's, you will need to install longer control arms, ideally adjustable control arms, to locate your front wheels centered in the wheel wells and properly adjust your driveshaft pitch. You will also need a drop pitman arm, an adjustable track bar with a drop bracket, I would install a steering box brace as well as a 1 ton steering setup if it were me. As far as the rear lift goes, either a set of lift leaf springs and upgraded shackles or convert to spring over axle. This being said, you are gonna need to install a slip yoke eliminator on your transfer case rear output as well as an extended drive shaft on the rear(go with an advanced adapters setup with a tom woods driveshaft) With 4.5+ inches of lift you will also have to replace your brake lines with braided, flexable lines as well as a new set of shocks all the way around. The sky is the limit, questions? Just search around or ask people, lots of knowledge here. Don't waste your money a junk lift kit and end up unhappy and buying a 2nd setup.

picking up a 12 pack to celebrate or mourn. hopefully celebrate.

Gears is what you need. 3.07 with 31's is not in your favor. You are lacking the power in 5th, given changing gears will increase your rpm's at said 70mph, you probably need higher rpm's to be further into the torque and hp range that will allow for you to be in 5th at 70. I'd be surprised if you were turning more then 1800 or 1900 rpm. 3.55's would get you 200-300 rpm's. With 4.10's you'd be more in the range of another 600 rpm's. Putting you in the 2500 rpm range, which won't do anything good for fuel economy in a 4 liter but you should have plenty of power to cruise in 5th, while being well under 3000rpm.

I just had my second child so I am being forced financially to sell the truck in order to buy an extended cab pickup. I have a 91 comanche I am going to build once I get my finances back in order. If you PM me your email I will have my wife take some more pictures for you tomorrow.

Could deliver if you were interested. https://maine.craigslist.org/bar/5988654090.html. $3500 for any comanche club member.

Try having someone pull on the release handle while you climb under the vehicle and pull on the end of the e brake cable at the bracket, where the 2 rear lines should attach. If you are able to move the cable, try stepping on the e brake pedal, then repeat the earlier process. If this works then try to reattach the rear cables and use the brake. It may require some adjustment of the cables at the bracket or your rear cables could have issues. Just a place to start.

Really standing on the brake pedal I think 4 times has reset the light. Brakes felt very good regardless of light being on. Had a feeling that there was something which would reset that indicator. Thank you.

Checked that already. Light goes out if I pull the wire at the proportion valve. Goes back on when wire is reconnected.

So a few weeks back i totally shredded a front wheel bearing and wrecked the stub shaft. When this happened, my brake indicator light on the dash came on. I just installed some junkyard shafts with 760 u joints and new hub bearing assembly. Calipers work, rotors and pads are good. I checked fuses and unplugged the wire at the proportioning valve and reattached it. Brake fluid level is good. Wondering if anyone might know of a way to clear up this issue.

bump still looking, specifically for comanche rear brackets.

Still looking. need passenger side axle shaft and hub bearing assembly.

thanks brett but my financial situation has me pretty limited right now. My total budget is about $50. I just gotta be able to get to work.

If anyone comes up with anything before hand please let me know but I can wait if need be.

I am interested in that. Ideally I could use everything from the u joint out. could separate it at the u joint and the ball joints. I don't need any brake components. Really the stub shaft is toast, the hub assembly and bearing is toast, pretty much my easiest route would be to install the whole knuckle with stub shaft and hub assembly. The only junk yard within reason of me is packed like sardines and you can't drive in. i don't mind working outside in this weather, it just honestly isn't very possible to access the locations of a few cherokees i know of.

Well I'm in pretty bad shape after all the snow off of a 3 story buildings roof fell on my 2 door yukon daily driver. I was hoping not to have to drive the comanche all winter after the countless hours i had into restoring it this year. I'm at the point now where I need to drive it and it needs some help. I am looking for a outer stub shaft for a 87 dana 30 with vacuum disconnect. I shreaded a wheel bearing and it wrecked the shaft while limping it home. So ideally I need a sub shaft and a hub assembly. I'm not looking for handouts, digging in the junkyard this time of year in maine isn't possible with 2 feet of snow on the ground, I am doing pretty bad financial wise with a new baby and the wife out of work. If anyone can help please let me know. I can pay shipping and a few bucks if you have what I'm looking for. I really appreciate any help I can get. Matt. I might have some parts to trade even.

Let me know what you have but I am trying to find a whole set.

I am interested in a full set of bushwacker if anyone has a set they are willing to part with for a decent price. Need them shipped to maine.

I am looking for a full set of the metal fender flare mounting brackets. I have the inner and outer fenders but being in maine the metal brackets with the bolts are too rusted to use. Paypal works best for me.

Send me your email and i will send you pictures of the entire setup. Th400, dana 300, dana 60 passenger drop with reverse steer. Someone is welcome to post the pictures here for me if they would like to do that. I just don't know how to post pictures or I would have done it by now.

A twin stick would not be unnecessary if you run manual hubs. Manual hubs if maintained properly are just one way of eliminating either a vacuum system or an electronic control. I believe in as much direct drive/ gear to gear equipment as possible in my rigs. The twin stick itself is what will allow the independent control of each axle. 1 stick will control the front axle and the other stick will control the rear axle. Stick #1 has rwd high, rwd neutral and rwd low. Stick #2 has fwd high, fwd neutral and fwd low. This allows for rwd low range as an option and fwd high range as an option. The only option that isn't available with the twin stick is fwd low range. This is to make sure that you never end up with 1 axle in high range and the other in low. You do not have to flip a d300 in order to use it with a th400 trans and a passenger drop differential. I have always run this setup with a ford high pinion dana 60 in the front. My reverse steer setup was from the company wfo concepts. I would only use a front axle that has kingpins and stay away from running ball joints. A ford dana 60 from a f350 that was made at any point in the 80's would work for you. Building a dana 44 for underneath a full size rig is a poor decision in my opinion. You are also limited to parts availability alot more with a dana 44 then a dana 60.

If this is sonething you end up wanting to do, you should get in touch and I'd love to cone give another member a hand. Depending on what route you wanna go... I've got a firewall from a 87 comanche we could weld in along with a ax15 and np231 I would be willing to give you. Ive got a couple 4.0's but I would want a couple bucks for one of them. Also have a 2.5 that needs a new head. Reguardless id like to come help another member out from my state. Probably have any other part you could be interested in too.

Dana 300's are really only desireable if you twin stick one. Cable operated shifting is much beter then the odd linkage adapters you would need to use. There are all types of gear reduction options available. Being able to independently control the front and rear axles is the best way can properly put power to your wheels. Having rwd high, rwd low, fwd high, 4wd high and 4wd low. They are light weight, fairly compact, and impressively strong (especially if you replace the input shafts). No idea how to post pictures on here but if someone gives me their email I will post pictures of my entire setup. Amc 360, th400, dana 300, ford hp dana 60 front, corporate 14 bolt rear, 5.38 gears, front detroit with a rear ox locker. Why wouldnt you want to run a flat top knuckle with a reverse steer/high steer? Manually locking hubs are the only option I would go with. In my opinion i wouldnt go with any transfer case that isnt gear to gear.

Buy a dana 300 and a adapter from novak conversions for the th400. I ran that setup in my fsj on 40's. If you want pics of the setup pm me you email address and I'll give you all the info you need.

Sorry john. Ive only got so much time in the day with all my projects. Building the comanche(as you can see I have no posted pictures of my build which is 75% done but I have 300 pictures on my phone), rebuilding a toyota pickup, building a garage, a 4 year old and a 2 month old. I don't even know how to post pictures, someone on the forum did it for me. I will take pictures of the welds before I prime and paint them. Will need someone else to post pictures for me again but maybe tues or wed I'll get some time to prime them and ill be sure to take pictures. More pictures will follow from the install next weekend. I've been building rigs for quite a while now and these sliders from nates are exceptional. Normally I would have made them myself but I hardly have time to eat as it is. Sorry if this wasnt a good enough start to my post but there will be more to come in the next week.