NorthWoods

Any advice for cleaning the tar out? Came apart great once I got the engine side bolt removed. Tomorrow I'll be removing steerimg column and heater assembly from my 61000 mile rust bucket parts truck.

Thanks for the info, I'm sure i'd a been fighting with it a while until I found that on my own. I looked over the fuse panel side a few times and didn't see anything. Couldn't see inside the engine side connector. I did remove the dust shield already. Its snowing pretty good here right now and I don't have a garage till I build mine in the spring so I won't be able to check it out till tomorrow. I'm ready for the tar! I willbe cleaning it all out.

I'm looking for anyone who can tell me the proper way to seperate my fuse panel and engine side wiring at the firewall. This is an 87 renix 4.0. I loosened the 2 screws holding the fuse panel to the firewall but from there they just continue to spin and don't get any looser. I have the entire wiring harness disconnected and pulled back all the way to the fuse panel. On the engine side of the firewall it appears that 2 seperate (one above the other) wiring connectors are on some type of mount/clip that pass through the firewall to the rear of the fuse panel. I can not for the life of me figure out how to seperate these connections. Anyone care to explain?

I have the actual dash already. Just need the right bezel and the lower piece with the ashtray in it.

Yeah if that was a couple bucks less it would be mine. I'm sure that goes for quite a few people.

Bump

Do a search. Best years seem to be 95/96.

Has someone installed an aftermarket stereo in the truck? If so,check whatever they grounded the stereo to as well as any inline fuse connections for the stereo. I also ran into a problem once where I got a little piece of metal from a phone charger stuck inside of the cig lighter outlet, kept blowing fuses from that but that was in an old toyota pickup.

A non cutout bench will totally work with a manual trans as long as the seat is not slid forward all of the way. Even then it will work just when your in 2nd,4th or reverse your shifter will be very close to the bench seat.

Located brackets through a member here. Thanks.

Bump

Bump

Need driver side bench seat brackets. Really I only need the driver side front bracket but will buy a whole set if need be and the price is right.

I'm looking for a right side dash bezel. The piece under the glovebox with the heater vent in it. Also looking for the trim piece that goes along the bottom side of the dash that is the width of the cab. While I am at it I need the panels that go from the front kick panels under the door openings back to the b pilars. Really looking for burgandy but will go with black if that's all I can find.

So this is the truck I ended up with a couple owners later and $1400. Not a bad start.

The only thing I don't care for about the isuzu axle is that it doesn't use normal dana ring and pinion gears. Not a deal breaker for me but just something else to keep spare parts for.

I'm either planning on swapping both to a 5x5.5 which seems like more trouble then its worth. Or I'm gonna try to pick up a matching waggy 44 for the rear or an izuzu rear and sell my mj44. Kinda the reason that I'm trying to pick a few peoples brains. I know I was looking past a few things when I was thinking about this swap.

I've got a factory 44 in the rear that I am going to run for the time being. Have a set of gears and a locker for it already from another project I had going. when that axle $#!&s out I will swap in a better 44 or a ford 8.8 to have rear discs.

Hot tub in the bed and you've got the first comanche limo.

I've got a parts truck that will be showing up at my place on Friday. If the passenger light is in good condition I can give you the one off my truck that has a 2 inch crack in it but no holes and doesn't let moisture in. If you pay shipping it could be yours.

I'm trying to stay away from running 60's on this rig.I ran a ford 60 on the front of my fsj with a corporate in the rear. I want to stick with something close to factory wigth. Also not really interested in cutting tubes. Up here in maine we have height restrictions and tire restrictions on how much a tire can stick past your fenders. Height is easy to beat at inspection time by running a set of 235/75/15's but wigth of a full size axle will never get you passed. I would prefer to keep a solid front axle instead of going to a 80+ ford ifs axle. the more I talk about it, the more I am convincing myself that the waggy 44 is what I'm looking for. Keeping factory wigth, running coils and adjustable ca's. Without installing a flipped dana 300 and being able to run passenger side drop I feel like the waggy axle is my only real choice. Just would like to hear from someone who runs one or has run one in the past.

https://maine.craigslist.org/pts/5333326976.html If anyone is looking for a nv3550 with transfer case let me know and I will go look at it for you.

So I'm contemplating a front dana 44 wagoneer axle for the 87 I'm building. I know which axle I need and what id like to do with it as far as coil buckets, control arm mounts and gears. I don't want to switch to front leafs and I don't think I want to run torsion bars (ford hp dana 44), I'm pretty sure I want to run a 44 with the current 6 inch coils and long arms that I already have for the build. My question is, does anyone here run a low pinion wagoneer axle, that is running 6 inches of lift? I'm curious about shaft angles. Also if anyone has some input on why I would rather run a hp44 with torsion bars please let me know. I will be running 4.88's and 35's with 6 inches of lift since I already have the soa kit for the rear of the truck. Any info is appreciated.

Pm'd you crash. Please get back to me.

Great. Yes I ment to add in the post that the front axle does have a locker. Being the reason I asked about 3wd. Thanks for the help. I was just curious because I could feel a front wheel engagement happen when I put my transfer case into 4h when the posi lock was not engaged. It did not seem to create the typical bind in steering until I engaged the posi lock unit. Just wanted to make sure I was not crazy as I am used to running Detroit's in my full size d60 axles with manual hubs. That and the use of my dana 300 twin stick I was running in the cherokee chief I just sold allowing for fwd.