Tex06

I have one as well....I took it off and replaced it with a smaller ball shaped one I swiped from the junkyard and mounted in the front bumper.

Got the new oil pan and gasket installed. Forgot to torque the bolts down and it leaked a bit at first but we're looking good now.

Do these just give you additional tie down points inside the bed? My pic is my prepping to trim my fender after my truck got hit (damage was down low, was gonna trim anyway).

Found a set of new Dorman chrome side mirrors locally. They have the remote adjust which is why I like these more than the aftermarket ones on Amazon. They're about $60 each..... has anyone used these? Thoughts on quality?

What did you do for steering? I like RRO's rear lift kit but want metalcloak dual rates up front. As for steering, it seems everyone has an opinion on what works and what doesn't. RRO's steering kit checks a lot of boxes for geometry but the bolt together ends to the existing steering knuckles is a failure point I don't want to deal with.

How do you like the Rocky Road lift?

Here in New Orleans you'll see people put boots on their cars or trailers. A bit overkill but they seem to work.

Get a gallon. Do at least 2 coats. I used just over a half gallon but was a bit light on the first coat and have a couple spots I'd like to hit again. Also, pull your railing off the bottom. It's super easy to do (sheet metal screws) and then you can reinstall with new foam and a new vinyl insert over the screws. Saves a bunch of time on taping.

Thanks Pete!

You're not talking about the two vertical windows are you?

The shorter side is the driver's side. I just spent 15 minutes with a rubber mallet "remembering" that. This is the passenger side measured from the back of the wheel stud. Looks like right over 29-¼". The driver's side would be slightly shorter (about ½" based on eyeball measurements). My guess is you got the wrong one.

I bought hex flange bolts off boltdepot.com ....as you can see I had to grind the bottom most bolt a little to clearance it. Much much easier to install/remove. The passenger side I had to grind off 1 or two of the old bolt heads then remove the bolt body with vice grips.

I've got mine out right now.... would any measurements help?

X2 on the Saginaw/GM guys having a good tear down and rebuild instructions. Somewhere on the internet I found a great pdf with detailed instructions when I did mine. Search for Saginaw steering columns

Found the culprit. It was the clutch spring, the remains of which were lodged in the oil passage that goes to the pinion bearing. Glad I found it, had that come loose it would have wrecked havoc on my newly setup gears and locker. 20220525_174825.mp4

For comparison this is the good side: And other side of the bearing cap: This does explain the massive amount of metal attached to the magnet that someone installed in the bottom of the case.

Regearing my D44 rear end.... already did the D30 up front and just looking for deeper gears. Was not expecting to see this when I opened up the case. The damaged side was loose when I went to pull the carrier after I pulled the bearing caps. Drivers side was very tight as you would expect. This is only my 2nd Dana axle and 5th or so axle rebuild. Anybody with experience please chime in as to what you think could have happened. Passenger side carrier bearing casting area and cap: Something definitely chewed up a bit of my casting. Looks to me like it was possibly a clutch pack spring? Carrier as pulled: some scratches seen but nothing that screamed at me as outside of normal. missing clutch spring: clutch spring in place on opposite side:

Appreciate it! Found them on their website. Ahhh. This would make sense. I'll need these too then if I go higher.

My comanche has gotten full blast hose pressure with a Nozzle (not a pressure washer) and engine degreaser many times over the years. Undo the battery, let dry for a few hours in the sun, then hook back up.

I got these all in a package deal with the bar pin eliminators. Problem is it was years ago and I have no idea what that are. Any ideas? The gal was an XJ builder.

I was going to suggest this but without removing the crank. It's not going to make the leak any worse.

If you have that leak I would fix before chasing the RMS. Mine also leaked down exactly below the RMS when I laid under the truck, not off the starter itself. I'll see if I have any of the pictures I took...

Great looking truck!

Mesquite tree, huh? Sounds like where I grew up.

Rear bumper could be a Westin installed by the dealer.