Tex06

Newest update, the jeep isn't dead.....yet. New 703s installed. Look good, ran great.....for a day. Now back to same issue. Pulled fuel regulator even though it tested good (was full of rust and crap) and swapped for another from the JY in much better shape. Also swapped out relays for fuel pump and auto-shutdown. No change. I did start logging when the issues are happening though. Everytime the temperature is below about 70* F the jeep acts up. So the issue is definitely temperature related and intermittent when it does happen. I finally pulled out the stops and bought an A/F Ratio gauge as well as an electric oil pressure gauge I'm rigging up to read fuel pressure. This way I can positively ID the issue when it does happen. Also bought a new fuel pump to swap in if this is the issue although I haven't yet. Tested the cat today (IR thermometer method) and it clearly wasn't doing much so I gutted it. Gonna go for a test drive although it's well over 75 today, I doubt I'll have any issues at all....but if I do, the fuel pump is going next. At this point I have a new crank position sensor, new MAP sensor, cleaned throttlebody, new Idle air sensor, new air filter (K&N from the junkyard for $2!!!), new fuel filter, new pressure regulator, upgraded injectors (cleaned and bench tested), new distributor, new spark plugs, new spark plug wires, new ignition coil..........any other ideas???

Looks like all I needed was the vacuum actuator and a turn signal stalk! Super easy. Question though: The stalk I pulled was in less than great shape. Would any GM one work? I had this in mind: http://www.ebay.com/itm/371109667956

Anyone know how hard swapping in cruise control to a non-cruise truck would be? Found a great donor at the jy and need at act quickly. Mine: 92, 4.0, 4x4, 5sp Donor: 92, 4.0, 2wd, Auto

Love that Avitar of yours!! Where is the yard with the Comanche? NOLA? New Orleans, LA.? Yep, New Orleans. Rusty, has anyone installed cruise in a non-cruise Jeep? I'd love to have it but don't know if the wiring is already in place or not.

It's in the registry

Ok, can't use Picasa/Google images here so I'll just leave the album link and whoever want to see it can click. https://goo.gl/photos/h1CXA21LEWQ8rMvG6

Year: 1992 Make: Comanche Model: LWB, Pioneer? Image, if available Engine: 4.0L H.O Trans: Automatic (AW4?) Transfercase: N/A Front axle: N/A Rear axle: Dana 35 Wheelbase: LWB Build date: (its on the driverside door sticker, in the form of month and year) Current Location: Pull-a-Part: New Orleans West Status:Junkyard Notes: Floor shift with grey vinyl bucket seats and center console. A/C, Cruise control truck. Manual windows, manual locks. Repainted a baby blue color. Missing taillights and fuel pump as of 3/25/16, rest of truck intact and complete. Has "Wildcat" step bars under cab. Current owner: Pull-a-part NOLA Pics to come after I get them uploaded to Picasa.

Guess I'll have to upload pics to Picasa or something. It's been repainted blue but I'll get em up once I get home.

If you see something you need, lemme know. Auto trans, manual doors, cruise control, and a/c. Decent shape, only 138k on the clock.

Anybody use these on a HO motor? Or know if the renix and HO vacuum lines are similar?

Dumb question, but what's wrong with IFS/IRS? Done right, it improves ride, trail capability (look at modern Baja trucks), and gives you a lot to play with. A solid axle....well, it's easier to work on and most of them are pretty stout. What am I missing here? Also, too cute. Square it up a bit and then we'll talk. Actually, that goes for pretty much the whole Jeep lineup right now.

Update time. Talked with an old timer about what a crapshoot these computer-aided troubleshooting systems are (OBD 1 for the rest of y'all). He suggested a leaky fuel injector causing the stutter so I grabbed my junkyard set of Bosch 703 injectors and threw them on. Jeep ran like a top! For a day. Now, I'm getting the stutter again but not nearly as bad. I'm thinking he was on to something so I picked up a set of reman 703s on FleaBay and they should arrive Monday. Man, and I was so close to liking my Comanche again. SO CLOSE!!!

Hadn't solved the issue yet, cold weather, rain, and a torn ACL have hindered progress somewhat. Will update when I continue to TS issue. Does anyone have a wiring diagram of the ECU with wire colors? I don't really want to undo all the factory wiring looms to chase this signal, although I know that's probably what I'll have to end of doing....

OK, will give that a try. The hard line is still there, looked over it twice and it looks solid. I've also used a whole can of ether checking for vacuum leaks to no avail. That a 98+ intake? Looks good!

Didn't have my vacuum pump (they're in storage out of state....this not having a shop sucks) but was able to see the changes in vac as described by sucking on the line, running at idle, creating a vacuum leak (pulling off booster), and at various rpms. Readings kicked out like you would expect, idle was ~1.60 V (close to video), WOT was below 1V (momentarily, no load on engine then would spike as throttle closed). Still can't drive with the MAP connected although idle is nice and smooth. Autozone, Advance, and O'reilly don't seem to have a vacuum pump or brake bleeder for rent. Any other suggestions?

Ok, tested for voltage at connector before hooking up the Mopar MAP. A-C shows 4.93 VDC, and B-C shows 4.87VDC. Checked both to ground just to verify, 4.99 V at C (closest to center of truck) and 4.87 VDC at B (middle pin on connector). Is this normal or am I frying MAP sensors because of a voltage leak somewhere?

Valve job (lapping the valves to make sure they seat properly) and decking the head (making sure the head is completely flat) is what I would recommend asking for. Fwiw, I don't have much experience with jeep motors but lots with inline 6s and 8s. Valve guides may be a good idea as well(usually a brass or bronze guide to keep the valves moving in up/down direction and eliminate any side-to-side movements), I'd Google and see what the general consensus is.

Spoke too soon it looks like. The new MAP only fixed the problem for about 50 miles worth of driving. Exchanged for another from NAPA, the second didn't help at all. Starting to suspect the connector to the MAP, have a Mopar MAP I ordered at the dealership but there's no GM markings on it like the OEM one. Should this worry me?

Note to self, take a bajillion pictures when I sell the jeep :P

Looks like this guy has had a hard life, someone should save him: http://www.govplanet.com/jsp/s/item/666840?h=345-22,15471 2.5L 4x4, 1986 Model with 160k on the clock. Probably none of that was highway miles either. But, the auction starts at only $900!

Installed the New Dizzy from the '94 - works great! Also picked up 12 Bosch 703 Injectors that I'm going to rebuild and install for a little better throttle response. There were probably 50 of them available in the JY, I figure I'll get at least 6 good ones.

Well folks we have a winner. I disconnected the MAP before a test drive and walla! All hesitation issues were gone. Plugged it back in and they came right back (although the idle still was pretty smooth). I had swapped in the JY sensor, guess it was bad from the get-go. Ran rich all the way into town but got a new NAPA unit (only $73 with tax) and she's purring again. Should have know that was the issue when I saw the "GM" on the back of the original MAP sensor, lol. So, if you have hesitation issues at all RPMs and want to rule out the MAP early, just disconnect it then test drive. If that clears it up, leave it running and reconnect, the problems should return right away. Easy troubleshooting solution. On a good note though, my 4.0 has a lot of new parts so I shouldn't have to do maintenance for like, 20 years now :D Thanks to MJ and Hornbrod for helping me out with this, you guys rock!

Bolts that mount the CPS to the top of the tranny are special, but the dimensions are m7x1.0x25mm. The back of the hole is open on AX-15 transmissions so a longer (30mm) bolt can be used.

In for Google acct info!

Went to Pull-a-part today and bought a ton of sensors and pieces. Will be swapping them in tomorrow and going at it in a shotgun style attack now. 3 Tps 1 CPS 1 O2 sensor 2 throttle body assemblies 2 IAC 1 '95 dizzy (only 165k on it!) 2 window cranks 12 Bosch 703 Injectors (pricey but I wanted to upgrade anyway) 2 MAP sensors 1 Coolant temp sending unit (forward) 2 MAT sensors 1 '92 Cherokee 4.0 ECU/PCU/computer-thingy Enough Pigtails to test the whole thing twice over 2 Cool 4.0 litre high output emblems 4 CPS Bolts (guess I shouldn't have ordered the others...oh well) And a full set of performance aftermarket gauges! Tomorrow will be an interesting day, that's for sure!