Tex06
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Everything posted by Tex06
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Whoops, forgot to turn on sharing apparently. Try the link again. If that's the part you need, PM me. I'm sure you could repurpose the switch though. I'm not sure on the Renix, but on mine one of the 4 wires is "hot" all the time and the switch to "On" just completes that circuit.
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Thanks Cruiser!
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Switch or stalk? The part that sticks out is just a stalk (Here is a picture of me holding both https://goo.gl/photos/P3v7CPogYaLNoLzU7 ), it shouldn't matter except if you have delay wipers or not. Just cut off the cord. If the actual switch is bad (the stalk is there but your blinkers don't "click" to turn left/right) then you have to dig into the steering column. I've got a great .pdf for how to do that! Edit: The switch is the creme/white colored thingy with all the wires on it hanging out of the steering column in the pic. Just FYI.
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X2 on Neverdull. Great stuff and super easy to use. Red or green scotchbrite and Bikebrite will get most gunk off the aluminum, follow it with the neverdull and you should be set!
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Well, skipping and such is solved, A/F gauge is in (running almost lean....idles at 15, runs right at 14.6-14.7 at cruise or WOT). My coolant temp gauge now no longer functions (It did appear to work with the previous broken sensor, but also had the skipping issue). My question now is does anyone know the resistance range of the temperature switch (the little guy that controls the dash gauge)? I'd like to bench test the new unit and the wiring to find my issue. I hear these 4.0s can tend to run hot, esp in the deep South and I'd rather not blow a head gasket.
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Brake is already in place (for brake lights). Didn't install one on the clutch, just tap the brakes before clutching it. Bought a new aftermarket turn signal lever for a GM car on fleabay for $15 shipped. $9.95 + tax for cruise control servo from Pull-a-part. Done and done! Easiest upgrade I think I've done other than pulling the column apart. I have a .pdf of an entire GM Saginaw tilt column rebuild I found online that was invaluable (69 pages of color with detailed descriptions!). If anyone needs it, I'll email it too you. Absolutely great. Also, make sure your wheels are straight BEFORE taking the wheel off....My steering wheel MIGHT be about 120 deg off. Whoops. :/
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Anyone have a pic of where the cruise wire runs into the column from the stalk? I've got everything apart and want it to appear stock...
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I thought I had read on another forum that the Durango boxes had several different models and some would limit turn radius while others didn't. I'll try and find that again.... I've been meaning to look that up.
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Jeep Comanche Only Parts Manual Download
Tex06 replied to HOrnbrod's topic in MJ Tech: DIY Projects and Write-Ups
It's a pound sign *sigh* Yes the bold numbers are book hours to replace, the pound sign next to it means read the note right beneath. -
X2 on SEM for any interior dyed pieces. I've used Duplicolor and another brand and neither matched as well initially nor do they hold up to UV as well over time. It costs more for a reason here. Now, if you're changing the color of the whole interior (esp to black) you can use whatever, just know that the colorfastness isn't quite what SEM is. But the price isn't either!
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Don, still have the Unichip? I just read your other write-up, didn't realize that it made such a difference. I'd be willing to take a chance on finding that short. Also, intake has just moved up to the top of the to-do list. A/C can wait a little while longer!
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While I haven't personally done it start to finish I have seen upholsterers do exactly what you're describing when making custom interiors. Go to the art store and find a suitable cardboard (maybe even hardboard should work....think like the stuff that has holes in it but without the holes....I've seen it in varying thicknesses). Carefully take apart one of the panels and trace it out as best you can and cut out with a dremel, or similar small power tool. I'd pull your (good) panel off and lay it out nex to your workspace as a guide and so you can double check distances to holes, etc as you go. To reattach the vinyl (or leather or whatever you go with) use a good quality spray adhesive like 3M 90 (Upholstery Adhesive spray) and start at one side and slowly work your way across making sure to keep everything straight and watching the edges/corners. You could even fasten with staples (get a pneumatic model from HF or whereever http://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/nailers-staplers/20-gauge-wide-crown-stapler-68029.html, I prefer narrow crown staples but they cost a little more). Basically it's a matter of jumping in and doing it....upholstery isn't hard. Just takes good attention to detail (and hence why most of mine is done by chicks, lol)
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Whoops didn't realize he had a Renix. I thought I had read that about the temp switch being for the gauge only, and that was why I hadn't replaced it earlier....my gauge was working (at least the needle moves when I let the truck warm up....as for accuracy, I don't know for sure but it didn't match my IR gun). I do know my problem has been gone for 2 days which is the longest the Jeep has run without issues since October or Nov when this started. Does anyone have a electrical diagram of the sensors on the 4.0 H.O. motor? I'm curious now if that temperature switch could have shorted and effected my ECU by drawing down the voltage, although that doesn't explain why my gauge was still functional. Really, I'm just waiting for the problem to come back again at this point because the fix I applied isn't logical. I think.
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Yep, looks cross threaded because of the angle and when I installed the new one, I did get a few brass shavings.... Probably should have cleaned the hole with a tap but it's in and no leaking. Seriously though, clean that ground with the sensor out. Much easier than having to dig back there again. Also to get the connector off the sensor I found it easiest to squeeze the narrow ends of the connector. I don't know if mine was missing a release lever but be careful not to crack the connector if you use pliers.
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Long 1/4" extension with a wobble tip on it. Best investment I ever made after working on old Datsuns. Made getting the CPS in/out much easier....but tape over the hole!!!
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I contacted John from KellysWIP on a cable set for some old heads and other 4.0 H.O. parts I've got, he's swamped right now but is going to get back to me when things slow down. The lack of grounding on these things is almost laughable. Makes me wonder how many jeeps were scrapped because of a little corrosion in the wrong place. Literally a free fix if you have a few tools.
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I had read that....I think I'll be cleaning all of my grounds this weekend and redoing others if I can track down my electrical stuff. Those things in the Tips could BE your "electrical stuff". Electrical stuff was wire, crimpers, heat shrink, terminal ends, et. al. Basically all my electrical tools except my multimeter because that stays in my toolbox. Went to clean all my grounds (Big thanks to Cruiser54 for pointing me in this direction!) and while getting to the one on the firewall-cylinder head, discovered my temperature switch was broken. Like fell apart broken. Don't know how in the hell I missed that. Test drove down to auto parts store with cleaned grounds (fuel tank and aforementioned cylinder head) and it was still acting up on me. Got back to the house, pulled everything apart again and put in the new coolant temp switch and she runs like a champ (for now). Idle isn't quite right, it kicks up and down like the A/C compressor is switching on (It's not connected currently) so I'm going to replace a few more vacuum lines and hunt for leaks but I was able to drive to work today without issues. Tanner, I'd check your temperature switch (cost me $20 from Carquest/Advance). The white epoxy that acts as a thermistor gets old and cracks with age. It's a PITA to get to but that would explain the temperature related aspects of the issue. While you're back there (I removed my fuel rail to get to the switch), CLEAN THAT GROUND! 11/16" Wrench, PB'laster, and a wire brush.
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I had read that....I think I'll be cleaning all of my grounds this weekend and redoing others if I can track down my electrical stuff.
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Another baby step forward and then a few more back: Got the jeep ready for a test and was watching my new electronic fuel pressure gauge, it's reading a solid 32-33 psi. Pop the hood to make sure no leaks, etc and notice I had left the fuel press regulator unhooked from earlier so I plug it back in and the fuell pressure reading just go all over the place, just crazy up and down at idle and even when blipping the throttle. Verify that disconnected the reading is steady, even drops slightly upon hitting gas. Ok, bad fuel regulator. SHouldn't have swapped in one from the JY but hey, I at least had ordered a new Standard unit and I pop it in (Really I fight with the damn thing for 10 minutes before soaking it in 15W-40 and then popping it in). Fuel pressure now holds steady, slightly increases with throttle (less vacuum....more fuel press.) Idle pressure reads 25psi. Go to back up and I notice that the "pressure" drops to 12 psi when I apply the brakes. So now my question is, where is the best place to measure system voltage? The brake lights shouldn't have enough amp pull to draw down my gauge I would think. Or could this be a bad ground issue? I guess my next step will be to wire my pressure gauge to the battery directly and see if that eliminates the draw down unless I have a voltmeter I can pop in my new dual gauge pod.
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OK, did the PCM hard reset this morning and got my electric fuel pressure gauge hooked up. Didn't get to test drive yet, but I did notice that my fuel pressure sits at about 26psi while idling according to the electric gauge...goes up to about 32-33 upon hitting the throttle, but is very low the rest of the time. I'm not sure if my gauge is out of calibration or if this is actual pressure....my mechanical gauges (two of them) are showing higher pressures (32 on one, 38 on the other IIRC). When I get a chance I'm going to run all three within a few minutes of each other or if I can find the plumbing parts for it, hook them all up and see what the deal is. I'm wondering if the mechanical gauges have some sort of built-in check valve, but I am using an electronic oil pressure gauge for fuel pressure....this just got really interesting and I haven't even installed the AFR gauge yet!
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But idles fine and revs ok as long as the motor isn't under load? Reason I ask is the T/S method I did was if I disconnect the MAP sensor my issue goes away (ECU reads "No Vacuum" and therefore runs the motor rich but won't idle for crap). I'd try disconnecting the MAP sensor and see if it changes the problem....if so you're probably looking at fuel injectors or fuel pump.....hence why I'm going this direction with the AFR gauge. I'll keep you updated as to where I end up, I found an exhaust shop near me I just have to get time off work to take the thing over to him now.
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At this point I'd do a rain dance.....I'll try it when I get home tonight and take the truck to rugby practice. Also, the cat wasn't the problem although throttle response is MUCH better now. Went to replace fuel pump, the original (I think it is anyway) was in there with no strainer....bought another strainer and installed thinking the old one could be in the tank blocking and unblocking the pump. NOPE. Same issues, now waiting for my bosch strainer to arrive since the Advance Auto Parts one didn't fit properly on the New Bosch Fuel Pump. Good news, I would be willing to bet money I can change that fuel pump now faster than anyone else on the forum! :D 3 times Sunday and I'll be doing it again as soon as the new strainer arrives. Another question: When you first turn the key on, does you fuel pump come on then cut off automatically after about 2-3 seconds? Without starting the motor. Just curious.
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What have you done so far to troubleshoot?
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Purchased an AEM Wideband....just need to find a decent exhaust shop this week to punch me a hole since my welder is in Atlanta at the moment: http://www.amazon.com/AEM-30-4110-UEGO-Ratio-Gauge/dp/B00N3VGPYS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1459873315&sr=8-1&keywords=AEM+wideband I'll just mount the 2nd O2 sensor in the pipe between the (now hollow) cat and the manifold. Comes with the kit, so no needing to match it to the Jeep computer. :D
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Bosch aftermarket fuel pump installation
Tex06 replied to Knucklehead97's topic in MJ Tech: DIY Projects and Write-Ups
Sorry to resurrect the thread, but did this work? I'm swapping my fuel pump and waiting on a strainer to come in....I don't wanny pull the pump a 3rd time today, but I can do this tonight while I wait if it works.