Tex06

Grabbed 6. If your want em, shoot me a PM. Sent from atop the porcelain throne.

Only on the backup lights, so no! I'd imagine if I put them in the brake/blinker slots I'd have to install a resistor. Sent from atop the porcelain throne.

Well Pete, next weekend I'll be in Loganville (4/30-5/1). There any other folks that wanna meet up for lunch that weekend? The MJ is going to the painter so it's kind of a send off....

4443984534835987 Good until June 19, 2016

Plus $14 shipping! Ouch!!! [emoji33] Sent from my E5803 using Tapatalk

Yeah, I was gonna mention that in the write up but am easily distracted. :D Sent from my E5803 using Tapatalk

$21 for the pair. I figure over the life of the truck I'd replace regular bulbs at least twice (at $5/set). So only double the cost. Lol Sent from my E5803 using Tapatalk

Bought a set of Sylvania ZEVO bulbs last night. Lifetime warranty, 6000k, bright as hell. Price matched at Autozone to wally world's $21.72. The bulb is a little too big for the Comanche socket so I took my Dremel and trimmed the socket to make it fit. Holy crap bright. The pics don't do it justice but the clean white light is much easier to see through my tinted windows. Before : After: Dremeled socket : Sent from my E5803 using Tapatalk

Sent from my E5803 using Tapatalk

Late to post here but I'm in New Orleans and I lived in Atlanta the past 10 years so I'm back there often (Gwinnett Co./Loganville/and Downtown by Tech). '92 Metric Ton, 4.0 4x4, AX-15. Sig has most of my mods.

I'm planning a junkyard run tomorrow for a 99+ intake (dropped mine and bent the vacuum tubing....sigh). I googled the P/N and saw the first image that came up, on cherokeeforum.com if that's right I'll snag ya a few.

Looks like internal resistance in the connections could be a factor. Have you tried cleaning out your connectors? http://comancheclub.com/topic/48804-electric-cooling-fan-issue/?p=496754 On voltage readings, corrosion can cause all kinds of havoc.

Whoops, forgot to turn on sharing apparently. Try the link again. If that's the part you need, PM me. I'm sure you could repurpose the switch though. I'm not sure on the Renix, but on mine one of the 4 wires is "hot" all the time and the switch to "On" just completes that circuit.

Thanks Cruiser!

Switch or stalk? The part that sticks out is just a stalk (Here is a picture of me holding both https://goo.gl/photos/P3v7CPogYaLNoLzU7 ), it shouldn't matter except if you have delay wipers or not. Just cut off the cord. If the actual switch is bad (the stalk is there but your blinkers don't "click" to turn left/right) then you have to dig into the steering column. I've got a great .pdf for how to do that! Edit: The switch is the creme/white colored thingy with all the wires on it hanging out of the steering column in the pic. Just FYI.

X2 on Neverdull. Great stuff and super easy to use. Red or green scotchbrite and Bikebrite will get most gunk off the aluminum, follow it with the neverdull and you should be set!

Well, skipping and such is solved, A/F gauge is in (running almost lean....idles at 15, runs right at 14.6-14.7 at cruise or WOT). My coolant temp gauge now no longer functions (It did appear to work with the previous broken sensor, but also had the skipping issue). My question now is does anyone know the resistance range of the temperature switch (the little guy that controls the dash gauge)? I'd like to bench test the new unit and the wiring to find my issue. I hear these 4.0s can tend to run hot, esp in the deep South and I'd rather not blow a head gasket.

Brake is already in place (for brake lights). Didn't install one on the clutch, just tap the brakes before clutching it. Bought a new aftermarket turn signal lever for a GM car on fleabay for $15 shipped. $9.95 + tax for cruise control servo from Pull-a-part. Done and done! Easiest upgrade I think I've done other than pulling the column apart. I have a .pdf of an entire GM Saginaw tilt column rebuild I found online that was invaluable (69 pages of color with detailed descriptions!). If anyone needs it, I'll email it too you. Absolutely great. Also, make sure your wheels are straight BEFORE taking the wheel off....My steering wheel MIGHT be about 120 deg off. Whoops. :/

Anyone have a pic of where the cruise wire runs into the column from the stalk? I've got everything apart and want it to appear stock...

I thought I had read on another forum that the Durango boxes had several different models and some would limit turn radius while others didn't. I'll try and find that again.... I've been meaning to look that up.

It's a pound sign *sigh* Yes the bold numbers are book hours to replace, the pound sign next to it means read the note right beneath.

X2 on SEM for any interior dyed pieces. I've used Duplicolor and another brand and neither matched as well initially nor do they hold up to UV as well over time. It costs more for a reason here. Now, if you're changing the color of the whole interior (esp to black) you can use whatever, just know that the colorfastness isn't quite what SEM is. But the price isn't either!

Don, still have the Unichip? I just read your other write-up, didn't realize that it made such a difference. I'd be willing to take a chance on finding that short. Also, intake has just moved up to the top of the to-do list. A/C can wait a little while longer!

While I haven't personally done it start to finish I have seen upholsterers do exactly what you're describing when making custom interiors. Go to the art store and find a suitable cardboard (maybe even hardboard should work....think like the stuff that has holes in it but without the holes....I've seen it in varying thicknesses). Carefully take apart one of the panels and trace it out as best you can and cut out with a dremel, or similar small power tool. I'd pull your (good) panel off and lay it out nex to your workspace as a guide and so you can double check distances to holes, etc as you go. To reattach the vinyl (or leather or whatever you go with) use a good quality spray adhesive like 3M 90 (Upholstery Adhesive spray) and start at one side and slowly work your way across making sure to keep everything straight and watching the edges/corners. You could even fasten with staples (get a pneumatic model from HF or whereever http://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/nailers-staplers/20-gauge-wide-crown-stapler-68029.html, I prefer narrow crown staples but they cost a little more). Basically it's a matter of jumping in and doing it....upholstery isn't hard. Just takes good attention to detail (and hence why most of mine is done by chicks, lol)

Whoops didn't realize he had a Renix. I thought I had read that about the temp switch being for the gauge only, and that was why I hadn't replaced it earlier....my gauge was working (at least the needle moves when I let the truck warm up....as for accuracy, I don't know for sure but it didn't match my IR gun). I do know my problem has been gone for 2 days which is the longest the Jeep has run without issues since October or Nov when this started. Does anyone have a electrical diagram of the sensors on the 4.0 H.O. motor? I'm curious now if that temperature switch could have shorted and effected my ECU by drawing down the voltage, although that doesn't explain why my gauge was still functional. Really, I'm just waiting for the problem to come back again at this point because the fix I applied isn't logical. I think.