Tex06

Throwback to the older days when trucks didn't come from the factory with bumpers usually and they were a dealer supplied option. Kinda like those crap plastic decals or license plate frames you get now a days. Sent from atop the porcelain throne.

Probably because back then you were supposed to pull a trailer using your bumper. Hence the 3 holes in the stock one, one hole for each size ball or two for chains. Remember, this tow hitch phenomenon is new for trucks. It used to be a car only ordeal. Sent from atop the porcelain throne. valid, but still, no wiring provisions... I couldn't imagine taking (at the time/) my brand new truck and cutting the entire rear harness in half to put a trailer hookup That was normal back then. Hell, a lot of states still didn't require trailer lights if you could see the truck lights above the trailer. Sent from atop the porcelain throne.

Probably because back then you were supposed to pull a trailer using your bumper. Hence the 3 holes in the stock one, one hole for each size ball or two for chains. Remember, this tow hitch phenomenon is new for trucks. It used to be a car only ordeal. Sent from atop the porcelain throne.

Yep. I like wally mart batteries because they're cheap and have a nice warranty for when they go bad (all batteries eventually do). Only issue may be if you're crawling a bunch they don't always seal the best. Sent from atop the porcelain throne.

No tire carrier on that one. That was the reason the Hanson XJ bumper was linked to begin with. Sent from atop the porcelain throne.

Yeah, saw the Hanson one but don't want to drop $1100 in a rear bumper at the moment Sent from atop the porcelain throne.

That was what I thought. Sent from atop the porcelain throne.

Good to know. I'll try redline next time X2 on the heat. I forgot to mention that it gets pretty warm coming off the tunnel. Didn't do that before either. Sent from atop the porcelain throne.

Good call on the moly additive. Didn't think about that but it should help with wear. Drove my MJ from NOLA to Birmingham to Chattanooga to Atlanta yesterday (yes, long day). The ax15 seems to like the 5w-30 synthetic well enough around town (easier shifts, less noise, want popping out of 1st near as often ) but after being on the highway for a long period (3-7 hours) there's a lot more noise and shifting takes considerable effort. Especially noticed shifting out of 5th...almost like I'm not depressing the clutch. Oh and it kicks me out of 1st everytime. If it sits up over night, shifts like butter again. At this point I know I'm going to rebuild the tranny so in going to try a couple different fluids once I he the Jeep back next month and see if there's any difference. FWIW, I used super tech synthetic oil. Sent from atop the porcelain throne.

Some PLC but not with Allen Bradley unfortunately. I worked offshore oil rigs and we had mostly GE PDUs. Sent from atop the porcelain throne.

Currently unemployed. Anyone need a mechanical/aerospace engineer?

Does anyone know if custom XJ bumpers would work on our trucks? I'm wanting something similar to this: https://www.hansonoffroad.com/proddetail.php?prod=JXJRTC-P but 1) don't know if it'll bolt up and 2) definitely not paying that much for a bumper. I know I can build custom, but with my tools in one state and me in another that's been difficult as of late.

Sweet build. What did you clean the taillights with? Mine are in need for sure. Also noticed you scrapped the LED bar up top, not happy with it?

Drove it and ordered some 10W-30 from wally world for my tranny. Will be changing the AX-15 fluid and greasing the chassis tonight before a road trip tomorrow!

Lol, well this answered a lot of my questions. The poor old tired motor won't hold speed in 5th on an overpass....always have to downshift but I've been up to 65 a time or two on the backside of the bridge. 209k on the clock and she may just need a rebuild.

Mine had one, but I think the PO removed it...assuming when the ashtray broke, lol. Yet another thing to fix.....

Only issues off-idle? The rest of the RPM range is ok?

I'm gonna be swapping whatever is in mine with 10W-30 synthetic this afternoon....currently it shifts like a well-abused logging truck and kicks out of 1st if you shift into it at a stand still (but downshift while rolling and she'll take off just fine from a stop....go figure). Also, if you really, really want to get into the nitty-gritty of it this is a great little read. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2554764 Turns out, not all GL-5 oils are bad for the brass....just some are. It's difficult to know which ones though without out lab results (which these guys did!)

Been having issues keeping her in first and found this on the jeepsunlimited.com (thanks to user marc1kim), thought it'd be useful to share. This info is only for the Aisin (AX5/15 5 speed manual) transmissions, not the BA-10 or AW4: *Pennzoil Syncromesh, and Royal Purple Synchromax are only recommended for the NV3550 and other NV trannys. (Not recommended for AX-5/AX-15). *Pennzoil has a GL4 lube, and Royal Purple recommends 10W40 motor oil for all 98 and newer jeep manual transmissions WITHOUT the NV trans. (Ax-5/Ax-15 fall in this category) *10W30 and (Jeeps recommended) GL-3 are roughly the same viscosity, and Gl-4 and 10W40 same viscosity as well. *All GL lubes have some kind of Sulfur content in them (needed for the High pressure Hypoid gears in rear ends, but not necessarily needed for most transmissions.) *Sulfur addadives react to brass internal parts. *GL-5 has twice the sulfur content of GL-4. *AX-5 and AX-15 are japanese manual transmissions, and the majority of manual Japanese transmission do not recommend the use of GL-5. because of the way it reacts to brass. *Red Line MTL is classified as a 70W80 gear lubricant satisfying the API Service requirements of GL-3 and GL-4. MTL also satisfies motor oil viscosities SAE 5W/10W/30, and the viscosity requirements for ATFs. *Redline MT-90 is a 75W90 GL-4 and also satisfies motor oil viscosities SAE 10W/15W/40. So it's safe to say: AX-5/AX-15 can use (synthetic?) 10W30, 10W40, GL-4, Or Redlines MT-90 or MTL and the New Venture transmissions Pennzoil Synchromesh, and Royal Purple Synchromax. Allthough I searched many website Here are some references with some good info: Good basic info and a mention of GL/ motor oil equivalents, and one mention of Japanese gear boxes. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gear_oil Viscosity chart: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/visc.html Gear Lube Definitions: http://www.finalube.com/reference_ma...tegories.h tm Redline MTL / MT-90 info and what they can substitute: http://www.roadraceengineering.com/p...-mtl-info.html And from the Amsoil website: "The difference in GL-4 and GL-5 is that GL-4 gear lubes have half the extreme pressure additives of GL-5. Because the gear types in manual transmissions do not necessitate the use of GL-5 gear lube, GL-4 is the correct recommendation called for by most OEM’s when gear lube is required." GL-4 definition: "This designation denotes lubricants intended for axles with spiral bevel gears operating under moderate to severe conditions of speed and load or axles with hypoid gears operating under moderate speeds and loads." - so GL-4 will have additives for the Hypoid Gears. And here's where it all comes home (and probably explains why Chrysler made the change): GL-3 Definition: "Gear lubricants designated for API GL-3 service are not intended for axles with hypoid gears. Some transmission and axle manufacturers specify API Category "CC" or "CD" motor oils for this service." note: "CC" and "CD" oils have been upgraded to newer designations and are equivalent to 15w40

Don, does your '91 have a 1/2" oil drain plug or 14mm? Again, the computers told me one part and it turned out to be another. Sent from atop the porcelain throne.

Twitchy steering is great in my Fiero as it spends most of its life on the track. I think I have 1.5-1.75 turns lock to lock but the center of gravity is low enough to not worry about stability issues. My 4x4s I like responsive, but streetable for both myself and my girlfriend. It's all about personal preference and your driving style. [emoji2] Sent from atop the porcelain throne.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web/PartSearchCmd?storeId=10151&catalogId=10051&pageId=partTypeList&suggestion=&actionSrc=Form&langId=-1&searchTerm=temperature+sender&vehicleIdSearch=321080&vehicle_321080=1992+%3A+Jeep+%3A+Cherokee+Sport+%3A+4.0L+242CI+L6+FI+VIN%3A+S&vehicle_21290=1991+%3A+Jeep+%3A+Comanche+%3A+4.0L+242CI+L6+FI+VIN%3A+S&searchedFrom=headerAnd the temp sensor with the "threaded stud coming out of the top" are for the 91 models. Lol, "doesn't fit your vehicle". Now I know why I couldn't find it..... God I hate those filters sometimes. Thanks! I guess '92 is the year it changes then, making it a one-off. [emoji19] I'll have to remember that if I run into similar sensor issues. Sent from atop the porcelain throne.

Found the issue. Sending unit I got wasn't for a gauge, it's for the idiot light. Edit: no, I just thought I did. The major retail parts houses don't carry this piece. If you ask for with the gauge you get a sending unit with a threaded stud coming out of the top. The proper piece is Mopar 56027012 Temperature Gauge Switch. Should look like what the parts house have for the dummy light but with a white or cream colored plastic connector. Sent from atop the porcelain throne.

The point I'm getting at I reckon is no one seems to have dissembled and measured an MJ steering box to tell if it is indeed a variable ratio Saginaw box. According to multiple forums so far I've read that XJs (and by I have assumed this to be true for MJs) are either all variable, all fixed, or came with both. I haven't been able to find anything concrete either way, but I can tell you my MJ steers like my '86 Chevy Truck which DOES have a variable ratio Saginaw steering box in it. Very much a one finger driver, lol. I'm going to try and get access to the water jet table in the next few weeks and slice my MJ box in half after I rebuild and install the jy Saginaw 800 I pulled from a 96 Grand Cherokee. If that works out, I'll post up the pics of what I find. Should be pretty easy to tell on the sector gear or worm gear if it's variable or not. Sent from atop the porcelain throne.

Link: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?7247895-Variable-ratio-steering-for-boneheads-who-don-t-know-how-to-drive-Good-idea-or-no Sent from atop the porcelain throne. Variable assist comes from changing the amount of pressure (the power steering pump with a solenoid on it) going to the system. Variable ratio steering means that when I turn the wheel X degrees, I get a Y degree change when straight but a Z degree change coming of the locks, regardless of how much effort I am putting into it. This change in wheel speed is bad for offroading as it makes it difficult to judge how much input you need to move an exact amount.... Which can lead to broken stuff.