Tex06

This thread. Never fully resolved this issue. It seems like I cleaned the grounds and it helped until there was a weather swing and then the issue returned. Cleaned them all again, weather changed, issue comes back. Anytime the temperature went from hot to cold, the problem came back. It looks like a ground issue but I can't get it to stay gone. And yes, I did cruisers tips and then some. Sent from atop the porcelain throne.

Good luck with that! Any tdi is a hot item around these parts. I do have a couple friends with them but they're all either waiting for the lawsuit or telling the world to pry it out of their cold dead hands. Sent from atop the porcelain throne.

The problem is it isn't that simple. You can tune to make a lot of smoke without it getting hot. Or you can tune it so it's very hot but not showing a lot of smoke. I'd put the probe in pre-turbo; accuracy matters. Post-turbo the correlation of measured temperature vs actual EGT is not completely linear and can be affected by a lot of factors that will be unknown in this case. Well said. OP previously stated going pre turbo may be a big hassel at this point so post turbo gives him something as opposed to nothing right now. Either way, an egt gauge is critical on a diesel. [emoji3] Sent from atop the porcelain throne.

https://vimeo.com/174101231 Above is an example of why you need an egt gauge and why an IR gun won't do. My temps are sitting about 600 while cruising in Houston traffic. Coming down a hill they drop to about 550 at the start and as I accelerate up the next one they climb to about 900 (went from 50-60 mph). As I crest the hill I slow to 55 and my temps drop to 600 before I get there. Point being, EGTs are not like radiator temperature with long latency times. It's real easy to lug a motor up the same hill every morning and burn up your pistons in a month or so. Sent from atop the porcelain throne.

Hard to tell with an IR gun. Even just 15 seconds at idle can drop temperatures drastically, plus you're reading surface temps, not actual gas. I'd advise putting it after the turbo, that way you at least have a way to measure it for now. It's easy to do, and any shavings that fall in just go out the tailpipe. You can even weld the hole up later if you like (not really an option with cast iron). Only other thing I could think of is turning fuel down so you never get black smoke (and high EGRs) but really.... Where's the fun in that? Sent from atop the porcelain throne.

Yeah, that or tap the cast iron (what I've done in the past). After adjusting the IP on a 6.9 IDI we melted the pistons while pulling a trailer. Turns out if we'd just downshifted and gotten more air flowing through the motor, everything would have been fine. We just didn't know. On second thought, you can also put the pyrometer in the head tube, right behind the turbo. I forget what the temps are there, but I'm sure you could look them up (I'm thinking like 750F max). It's not quite as accurate but I've seen it done. Sent from atop the porcelain throne.

I don't really think I need a tranny temp or exhaust temp gauge...shouldnt be under anymore stress than stock really or any hotter. And I've never done anything with diesels before but I've already got a few more Cummins swaps in my head for when I get the money together. I don't think I'd go with anything other than Cummins, just for their simplicity, until I have a complete understanding of diesels. And thanks. Body work should start in a couple weeks. Anybody know the best rocker replacement panels? Always monitor your EGTs in a turbo diesel!!!! Esp with a standard tranny and a motor that is fully mechanical. It's easy to lug a motor in too high of a gear when you should be downshifting. Running rich like that will dump extra fuel down your exhaust system giving you that "cool" black smoke and if you're unlucky, melted pistons. This is doubly true if you are hauling a load, pulling a trailer, or running bigger tires. 1050 F should be the max you see with an absolute max (never exceed) of 1100F. Sent from atop the porcelain throne.

And that folks, is why this forum is awesome! Sent from atop the porcelain throne.

A 12v starter from Autozone will fit right in (don't trade that 24v for the core though! Sell it to another military driver). Same with the glow plugs, I think a set of Bosch 60g plugs run about $65 shipped, you can use the "doghead" relay setup and convert to 12v pretty easily. Injection pump should be a DB2 which is a fine mechanical pump, requires no electricity to run on the trucks. If your generator has a different one, I'd swap it for the DB2 because they're plentiful and easy to use. Sent from atop the porcelain throne.

As for the turbo kit, banks technically no longer sells it, but if you call them they'll put one together for you (you can even customize what you want/don't need in it this way). Another cheaper, but more labor intensive option is to use the exhaust manifolds off of a 90s 6.5 turbo diesel (the blocks are the same) and fab up your own kit. After installing this one and knowing all that's involved, I'd probably try the 6.5 route.... It's really not all that complicated. Just don't skimp on the gauges, they'll save your motor! Sent from atop the porcelain throne.

Hell yeah. I'm a member of the steel soldiers forum and drive a military diesel as my daily driver. Just finishing up a banks turbo install. The block mounts just like a chevy small block, you can get fantastic gas mileage out of them, and they're quite light (for a diesel motor... Think in between a small block and a big block). The military motor (reference code J) is a little higher output mostly due to the intake not having an egr valve in the middle underneath the air filter. Lots of good info on these motors, not big power houses but dependable and economical for sure. Sent from atop the porcelain throne.

Dammit.... Double post

Throwback to the older days when trucks didn't come from the factory with bumpers usually and they were a dealer supplied option. Kinda like those crap plastic decals or license plate frames you get now a days. Sent from atop the porcelain throne.

Probably because back then you were supposed to pull a trailer using your bumper. Hence the 3 holes in the stock one, one hole for each size ball or two for chains. Remember, this tow hitch phenomenon is new for trucks. It used to be a car only ordeal. Sent from atop the porcelain throne. valid, but still, no wiring provisions... I couldn't imagine taking (at the time/) my brand new truck and cutting the entire rear harness in half to put a trailer hookup That was normal back then. Hell, a lot of states still didn't require trailer lights if you could see the truck lights above the trailer. Sent from atop the porcelain throne.

Probably because back then you were supposed to pull a trailer using your bumper. Hence the 3 holes in the stock one, one hole for each size ball or two for chains. Remember, this tow hitch phenomenon is new for trucks. It used to be a car only ordeal. Sent from atop the porcelain throne.

Yep. I like wally mart batteries because they're cheap and have a nice warranty for when they go bad (all batteries eventually do). Only issue may be if you're crawling a bunch they don't always seal the best. Sent from atop the porcelain throne.

No tire carrier on that one. That was the reason the Hanson XJ bumper was linked to begin with. Sent from atop the porcelain throne.

Yeah, saw the Hanson one but don't want to drop $1100 in a rear bumper at the moment Sent from atop the porcelain throne.

That was what I thought. Sent from atop the porcelain throne.

Good to know. I'll try redline next time X2 on the heat. I forgot to mention that it gets pretty warm coming off the tunnel. Didn't do that before either. Sent from atop the porcelain throne.

Good call on the moly additive. Didn't think about that but it should help with wear. Drove my MJ from NOLA to Birmingham to Chattanooga to Atlanta yesterday (yes, long day). The ax15 seems to like the 5w-30 synthetic well enough around town (easier shifts, less noise, want popping out of 1st near as often ) but after being on the highway for a long period (3-7 hours) there's a lot more noise and shifting takes considerable effort. Especially noticed shifting out of 5th...almost like I'm not depressing the clutch. Oh and it kicks me out of 1st everytime. If it sits up over night, shifts like butter again. At this point I know I'm going to rebuild the tranny so in going to try a couple different fluids once I he the Jeep back next month and see if there's any difference. FWIW, I used super tech synthetic oil. Sent from atop the porcelain throne.

Some PLC but not with Allen Bradley unfortunately. I worked offshore oil rigs and we had mostly GE PDUs. Sent from atop the porcelain throne.

Currently unemployed. Anyone need a mechanical/aerospace engineer?

Does anyone know if custom XJ bumpers would work on our trucks? I'm wanting something similar to this: https://www.hansonoffroad.com/proddetail.php?prod=JXJRTC-P but 1) don't know if it'll bolt up and 2) definitely not paying that much for a bumper. I know I can build custom, but with my tools in one state and me in another that's been difficult as of late.

Sweet build. What did you clean the taillights with? Mine are in need for sure. Also noticed you scrapped the LED bar up top, not happy with it?