Tex06

Just reinstalled my AX15 today. Floor jack was holding the engine, I am working on the ground (no jack stands) so I have to put the tranny on the HF jack under the vehicle. Did the tcase by myself while HF jack was holding tranny. Bolts on top of tcase aren't bad if you use a 12" extension on the driver's side and a stubby 9/16" wrench on the passenger. Or go in from the top (how I broke them loose originally). Plus this way you can put the linkage for the tcase in with the bracket loose (it bolts to top two bolts on drivers side). Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Any idea what the difference is? The 96 from the jy looks nearly identical to mine. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Cut a big hole, or get a sport bar. Anything else you're gonna be unhappy with look and function. Until then, Maglite makes a great portable cargo light :D Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Post up some pics man. Your description is still kinda garbled. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Yep figured that out once I got the tranny out. I'll run it up into the engine bay like the front axle Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

What is this black rubber line on the transfer case? NP231 off a '92 MJ w/4x4. I cut it, will reconnect if important when installing new tranny. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Thanks SVPete, but there's no wiggle at all. I've adjusted doors on old Chevys, didn't think about making my own shims. I'll see if I can find a pic of the OEM ones and replicate with my shears and some sheet metal. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Anywhere to buy shims? Or are those a JY option? I ask because my truck has none between door and hinge. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Also, there is no slop in the hinge pins that I could see. Opened the door fully and lifted on the end of it, rocks the whole truck. I would think that any slop would be seen with that test.

Here are some pics, now that I feel like I kinda know what I'm looking for.....maybe it's just flattened weatherstrip? Upper Hinge (Looking at it with door open) Another view of the upper hinge. I don't see any distortion, cracking of the paint, rust, or broken welds. Lower hinge on same door for comparison. Again, no signs of problems. Crack at top of door where weatherstrip doesn't make contact with door. Rainwater comes in thru here occasionally when driving. I can also lift the door slightly when it is fully closed (the source of my rattle) but it takes a bit of strength. Not like when the door is only "Half-closed" and rattles easily. Daylight visible from inside at the top of the door when fully closed. Same as above but backed the camera up for perspective. More daylight at bottom rear corner of window (Just above door latch) Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Pics: '96 master from junkyard My '92 (apologies, camera is difficult to get a good shot with) Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

I had issues with my 92. The main connector to the computer had corrosion on the pins...bad juju for the electrical signals. You have to pull the air filter housing but I would add that to the list of things to check. Or you can be like me and replace all your sensors first, then troubleshoot properly :D Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Attempting to put in my new AX-15 and learned something today. The Master Cylinder for the '92 models uses the same "pin" style fittings as the later models, even though I have an internal slave like the rest of the Comanches. Meaning, I don't need an adapter and a new line to attach my JY slave I salvaged nor do I have to fool with swapping out my master (possibly the rod end is a different size, have not confirmed). Apparently the older Master Cylinder was used until '91 and changed in '92.

I saw this the other night while looking for a diesel blazer. Kinda cool, like the Toyota 1 ton trucks of the 80s but not my style. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

That sounds like a pull the fender and reweld. Does anyone have a write up on doing this? Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Just bend it back essentially? Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

What angle should I be looking at to check for pulling away? Also, good source for hinge pins? Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Ok, it's finally gotten to me. My driver's side door doesn't completely seal when it closes. I believe the hinge has sagged some, I've adjusted the door twice (and the door latch striker many many more times), but I have a gap I can see through when the door is "closed" (i.e. I can't rattle it). Also, it rattles when I hit a big enough bump like it's not completely closed (well because it's not, the weather stripping isn't even touching). The striker is completely closed, you do have to slam the door a bit each time to get it to fully seat. Is there an easy way to fix a sagging hinge? Or could this be something else?

Great freaking writeup! I've been trying to get my light to.....well, light. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

This belong to someone on here? My tailgate is similar to this, wanted to know if the spare is mounted to the 'gate or the bumper.

Looking for someone who wants to trade their aftermarket bumper with me for my stock black one. No dings or dents in it, I'll post up pictures if anyone is interested. Ideally I'd get one like the second link with lights like the first one, but show me what you've got. Even better if it's bare steel so I can modify it before paint. Lights like this: http://comancheclub.com/page/index.html/_/news/september-2016-40forlifes-88-olymp-r61 Tire carrier like this: (Can be mounted on either side)

New tranny! Just finished the conversion of a 2wd AX15 to 4WD, going in next week hopefully!

Yes, of course an LED by itself is a diode, but some of the newer (more expensive) LED bulbs have built-in bridge rectifiers and will operate regardless of polarity. Mine are the cheap Chinese ones! Hadn't seen the ones with a rectifier....that's a pretty spiffy idea! (Took a lot of EE classes in college then did several years as a electronics tech) Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

I like this idea. I should be able to test for any voltage at the lamp and then if anyone can point me to the switch or pin on the ECU, I can backprobe it. :D

Yep, operated normally beforehand. LED is in properly, doesn't work (diode!) if installed backwards. If I pull the dash again to do the bright light indicator and turn signals, I'll pull all the unused LEDs and see if there is a possible "hot" current being passed to the upshift bulb at all times. Not worth buying a bulb for, plus it's waaaayyyy cooler that it's green instead of that annoying yellowish-puke color.