Tex06

Attempting to put in my new AX-15 and learned something today. The Master Cylinder for the '92 models uses the same "pin" style fittings as the later models, even though I have an internal slave like the rest of the Comanches. Meaning, I don't need an adapter and a new line to attach my JY slave I salvaged nor do I have to fool with swapping out my master (possibly the rod end is a different size, have not confirmed). Apparently the older Master Cylinder was used until '91 and changed in '92.

I saw this the other night while looking for a diesel blazer. Kinda cool, like the Toyota 1 ton trucks of the 80s but not my style. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

That sounds like a pull the fender and reweld. Does anyone have a write up on doing this? Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Just bend it back essentially? Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

What angle should I be looking at to check for pulling away? Also, good source for hinge pins? Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Ok, it's finally gotten to me. My driver's side door doesn't completely seal when it closes. I believe the hinge has sagged some, I've adjusted the door twice (and the door latch striker many many more times), but I have a gap I can see through when the door is "closed" (i.e. I can't rattle it). Also, it rattles when I hit a big enough bump like it's not completely closed (well because it's not, the weather stripping isn't even touching). The striker is completely closed, you do have to slam the door a bit each time to get it to fully seat. Is there an easy way to fix a sagging hinge? Or could this be something else?

Great freaking writeup! I've been trying to get my light to.....well, light. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

This belong to someone on here? My tailgate is similar to this, wanted to know if the spare is mounted to the 'gate or the bumper.

Looking for someone who wants to trade their aftermarket bumper with me for my stock black one. No dings or dents in it, I'll post up pictures if anyone is interested. Ideally I'd get one like the second link with lights like the first one, but show me what you've got. Even better if it's bare steel so I can modify it before paint. Lights like this: http://comancheclub.com/page/index.html/_/news/september-2016-40forlifes-88-olymp-r61 Tire carrier like this: (Can be mounted on either side)

New tranny! Just finished the conversion of a 2wd AX15 to 4WD, going in next week hopefully!

Yes, of course an LED by itself is a diode, but some of the newer (more expensive) LED bulbs have built-in bridge rectifiers and will operate regardless of polarity. Mine are the cheap Chinese ones! Hadn't seen the ones with a rectifier....that's a pretty spiffy idea! (Took a lot of EE classes in college then did several years as a electronics tech) Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

I like this idea. I should be able to test for any voltage at the lamp and then if anyone can point me to the switch or pin on the ECU, I can backprobe it. :D

Yep, operated normally beforehand. LED is in properly, doesn't work (diode!) if installed backwards. If I pull the dash again to do the bright light indicator and turn signals, I'll pull all the unused LEDs and see if there is a possible "hot" current being passed to the upshift bulb at all times. Not worth buying a bulb for, plus it's waaaayyyy cooler that it's green instead of that annoying yellowish-puke color.

Light is still on when other dash lights are off. :/ Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

It's OK, that'll work great for my MJ! Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Replaced most of my dash lights with LEDs. Love the way it looks but my shift up light is constantly on now. Not bright, but very dim. When I need to shift it gets brighter like it should. Figure I have a bad ground, any idea where to start? Pics kinda suck because bumpy road and night shot Dim: Bright: Bright but pothole, lol: Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

You can buy rebuild kits or new ones and transfer the seals. If you're careful :D Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Careful welding to brakes. Welding fluid is pretty flammable stuff. I've had success in the past removing the wheel and carefully heating the bleeder screw (just the screw, not the caliper in disc or brake cylinder on drum) then removing it very slowly with vise grips. After it breaks free let it cool. You'll need new bleed screws if you do this though. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

He means the brake pedal. Does it go to the floor (or almost) really easy? Or does it feel stiff when you step on it? Brakes have to be bled of air when you work on them because air is compressible. YouTube "How to bleed brakes". It's pretty much the same on any common car, truck, or suv. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Oh boy, hope you find the issue. My 92 started that way and after months of troubleshooting (problem was intermittent and sometimes left the truck undriveable) it turned out to be a bad electrical connection. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

I think he was thinking the sump was above the oil. In which case spinning it wouldn't help, lol. I like the dump some oil method and then hit it with the drill. Feels like the best of both worlds. While we're all here, anyone have a convincing reason for a high volume pump on a stock engine? I like the idea for a high performance motor but if I have to tweak the oil pan I can't see why the extra time and effort (cost is about the same for melling) would be worth it. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Not in this corner of the world. At least, not when I was crewing on the stock car. Even a new engine that we knew had assembly lube on the cam, cam bearings, crank and rod bearings, and cylinder walls got the oil pump spun over with a drill until we had positive oil pressure. Until we saw oil pressure, the engine was only cranked over by hand. Much tighter tolerances there. On a engine not meant for racing in the pre-fuel injection era things were different. My shop manual for the 235 cid 6 cylinder and 283 SBC both say to prime a new pump this way. Granted this was written close to 60 years ago. Things have changed a lot since then. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Slamming definitely necessary sometimes, lol! Yep, first thing I did. Topped off with junk oil (10w-30 strone brand) just to make sure it wasn't below the pickup. I'm just used to Fords and Chevys that you can turn over with the starter to prime the pump. Running with a starter isn't going to move it enough to seriously harm anything. The motor wasn't going to catch with bad fuel (and possible bad pump). This method is the most common way to prime SBC and small block Ford motors, just pull the coil wire. I fished a piece of baling wire down there and it came up dry. I'll have to try the compressed air trick if I can get a portable air compressor next time I get to work on the thing. My problem was NO pressure or even a dribble, usually a blockage like that (in most hydraulic systems) gives a partial block.

Along the same lines, they have a PermaDry and a PermaDry Plus valve cover gasket. First is rubber, second is silicone. Is silicone worth the extra $2? Both are steel cored.

Thanks guys. Turns out Summit does have the Fel-pro in stock....it doesn't show up under "Jeep Oil Pan Gasket". When I searched for "Fel-pro Jeep" it came right up. Same price too!