feerocknok

I'd rather have people point out potential problems, than have them fail because noone said anything. Thank you again.

Someone rigged up a sweet hand throttle on hear for when their leg was broken. Was a like 3 pieces off wood that hinge off of each other to push the gas pedal. Nothing's happened to me yet *crosses fingers*

Those first 3 pictures look like art to me. I pat myself on the back. :D

CW, I took some more. They look good to me, but I might not be looking close enough. I very much appreciate your concern, as I don't want to put in a bad shaft and run into more problems because of it. I'm running the non questioned (new) shaft right now, but was going to get a new bearing pressed onto the old shaft and install it. If the old shaft is bad, I will just get a new bearing pressed on the new shaft and hold the old shaft for a crutch incase of breakage.

:oops: Thought I had my facts straight.

I'd like to hear who has broken they're Dana 35, where it broke, what the drivetrain was, how the driving was, and tires in use. So, shafts, ring and/or pinion, spiders? 4.0/2.1/2.5/5.7? Manual or auto? Turning a corner or sudden traction? Bald all seasons or bias plys? Main reason for the post is I'm curious how worried I should be with a 2.5 and a 904 on 31 or 33" MTs.

yay, this will be fun. :roll: so what about the front? Bolt in affair. I believe front brakes have changed through the years though, so you may have to use the calipers off the new axle. well it's good to know that the front shouldn't be to bad. do you still think that the calipers will be different from 88 to 89? and from an xj to an mj? Schuck's Auto Supply says: '88 Caliper, Part No. 154181 '89 Caliper, Part No. 154181 I forgot to add about the vacuum disconnect for the 4wd. '91+ Cherokees and Comanches will not have the vacuum disconnect. I believe you'd just have to plug a couple things on your t-case, and you can use those axles as well.

:???: The steering off a ZJ Grand Cherokee. Beefier tie rod. I hate my inverted-y steering with my lift. My tie rod ends are crying.

It didn't appear to be when I was looking at the shaft differences., but honestly, I wasn't looking at it real hard considering my power plant. I won't start into it on this thread, but I'm curious about 4-cylinder automatics snapping 35s. With a stick or 4.0 I can understand it a little more. And last comment, my driverside shaft is longer than my passenger shaft, so should I look into carrying a spare for both sides?

:dunno: Mine is set at 10* after all was said and done. You have to drop the vehicle weight on the axle before you eye it up. Once it's all eyed up sitting like it would going down the road, weld er up.

I headed to Napa, and they had some 1/2" bolts. They're 8" long instead of 6.5" so I'll need to cut them. Where I'm road tripping to has some great wheeling, and even if I tell myself "no", I'm sure I'll end up in the dirt.

As long as the oil pick-up tube clears. If I was lowering a Jeep, I'd be quite upset that they used a straight axle.

A static drop, I believe, is just a drop that isn't adjustable, so not bags. A 4" block will lower it 4". I'd be a little concerned with dropping the front much, as mentioned with oil pan clearance.

Blocks will lower the vehicle as much as the height of the block. A 2-inch block will lower your truck 2-inches. They can induce axle wrap, but I don't know about stability. For leaf springs, I'm curious what peoples thoughts are on using full-size Cherokee springs. They have less arch than MJ springs with the same dimensions, and I'd assume they are stiffer, since they carry more weight around than an MJ does (but also MJ springs are designed to handle a loaded truck bed).

So, the axle shafts, although not identical, will operate the same? I didn't realize that's not what the 'c' stands for, but now that I think about it, I remember it being mentioned in the past. I'm transferring all of my MJ braking system to the new axle. I don't like to have to carry a long book in case of an emergency, and try to figure out what part came from what vehicle, so I feel this is the best route.

Pretty certain that he meant you use the ranger front coils in place of your stock coils to lower the front, but you need to modify the bump stops.

That's what I was thinking. I ran an identical set on my Toyota, and they no longer look like 'U's. Problem is, I don't know of any local spring shops and I'm not perfectly comfortable reusing the old bolts. I'm also taking the truck on a road trip (600-700 miles) on Friday.

I'm swapping in an '88 Cherokee Dana 35 (4.56s) to replace my '86 Comanche 35 (4.10s). According to the castings, they are both 35Cs, but the shafts pulled right out. I've really only ran into 2 concerns though. 1st concern is the axle shafts. I only have the passenger side axle shaft on the new axle, so I'll need to drop in my old driverside shaft. The passenger shafts have a different taper on them though, so I'm concerned my old shafts won't work. The '86 is on the left, the '88 is on the right. 2nd concern is the u-bolts that I picked up from the parts house. The old u-bolts are Much beefier and are something like 9/16" thick. The new ones are 7/16" thick and the parts house looked it up and that's all they can get. I know everyone recommends using new u-bolts, and I do as well, but is it worth it with this drastic of a difference? And here's the 35C markings:

yay, this will be fun. :roll: so what about the front? Bolt in affair. I believe front brakes have changed through the years though, so you may have to use the calipers off the new axle.

I would soak up the juicy goodness that those leaves have to offer with a longer shackle, oppose to losing ride quality with an add-a-leaf. I also doubt with 8.5" of lift the truck sees hauling duty to often to justify the upped payload.

I have to admit to this as well. Factory tolerances aren't very good from any manufacturer, so as long as mine are better, I know that the truck has been improved.

People say it's the most complete because other brands won't have extensions for the sway bar end links or won't come with upper control arms and things like that. Does the RE kit come with shocks or longer brake lines?

I've got my front axle dropped and I've got the new spring perches welded on my 4.56 axles. Tomorrow I'll install the front and start on the rear. I'm trying not to rush cause I get frustrated. Since I'm using my old axle shafts and brakes, do you think it'd be possible just to remove the drums., pull the shafts, unbolt the backing plates, and tie em up? It was hell dealing with the parking brake at the JY and I couldn't get the splitter undone. Had to cut the old cables.

Yay! I got the track bar for $101 shipped!

Yes it does..Is it needed..not really, but thats a topic for another board!! Technically, MJ's made before 1991 have different track bars then TJ's. But not so different that they will not work. I used a brandy new 1999 TJ track bar on mt MJ for almost a year before upgrading and lifting it. CW Full size Cherokee's had track bars to and were leaf sprung. Toyota had a bar running forward to backwards that stops the truck from acting funny on solid axle models under hard braking (or that's why people say to not remove it) so maybe the track bar's for something like that.