Squeegy410

I had one a few Weeks ago that was just a junky belt. Ended up getting a more expensive ones that didn't feel like hard plastic and that did the trick.

my brother pulled the stock radio out of his comanche if your interested. I'm not sure what he would want for it, maybe trade some parts? i also have original jeep fog lights but i have no idea if they would ever work agian

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the transmission is finally shot. It went out last night driving. if i get an ax15 will my current drive shaft, speedometer, and ccps, and anything else have to be replaced? I would rather have the better transmission but i can't afford anything extra

My front shaft needs replacing. Is this a common problem for Pugeot 5 speeds and will it suffice to pull one from the junk yard?

All I really need is a front shaft, but I don't know if I can trust one from the pick and pull

I have a 2 but I have axles for a 4 so either

I'm pretty sure my transmission is about gone. I need a new one, but can't find one. My current transmission ,is a pugeot, but would prefer an ax 15.let Me know what you have. I live in gallatin TN. Thanks update:how many extra parts do i need for the conversion to ax 15?

You mean as soon as it starts it jumps up to around 2k rpm's, then after a couple seconds idles down to normal? simple answer is: its a renix, so its going to do that.

the spring is suposed to hook into the door somewhere. any idea where?

This morning i was driving to school and some papers fell from my visor. when i tried to catch them i drove off the road slightly and my mirror hit a huge solid iron mail box. it didnt break the glass, but it did tear the mirror off. the miror is not damaged, just has a long spring coming out. how do i route this spring back into the door and onto my truck correctly? thanks for any help as always.

thansk for all the help. replaced the cps and it runs out fine. hopefully it will continue to do so :roll: thanks again ill let you know if there are any problems

it does restart after it gets cool apparently. it only dies after ive driven it about a mile and then cuts off and won't get spark. how do i check the connector or crank sensor?

yesterday my truck died on the road. I trailered it home and found i was getting no spark from the coil. i have a parts cherokee so i pulled the ignition controll module and coil off of it (since they come off in one piece) and put them on mine. it started right up. i took off for school this morning and only made it about a mile before it did the exact same thing. what could be causing my truck to do this? thanks for any help.

9 of 10 times ive even bothered trying on craigs list the person selling is full of crap. once i got up to meet a guy in nashville early in the morning. thats a 45 minute drive, no big deal, but i had to get up super early. called the guy like 8 times to no avail, so i got pissed and went and spent all the cash i had withdrawn on yardsales :brows: had much more fun that way anyway. some bad situations end up good :yes:

Its been a while but i finally got this fixed. the problem was when you slide the whole fuel pump/float into the tank there is a little socket that the pipe on the end of the fuel pump goes into. i is hard to see, and even harder to get into place. You should probably drop the tank to do this, otherwise you will have problems like me :ack: thanks for all the help, the vasoline thing worked really well :thumbsup:

what was the final tally on the the parts to make it power? I would love to do this to my truck but don't know that i can afford it

once i get my bike tagged i might tear into the truck. ive just got to have some kinda ride so i can go to school and work haha. and i really don't feel like driving with a pair of vice grips for a steering wheel for a couple days :ack:

Really seems like more trouble than its worth :ack:

When I first bought my Comanche it didnt even have the wiper motor installed. My dad and I checked out the motor it came with and found the motor did work, however the switch from the truck didnt. So we hooked robbers onto the wipers wiring and ran those to a three way switch and push button under my ashtray. I have used this setup for a very long time and I am sick of reaching down ever time it sprinkles, and having to time it just right to get the wipers to stay were they belong (since I'm not using the standard switch the thing that makes them go back "home" is not working either). My question is how hard is it to fix the switch within my tilt column MJ? I have been hesitant to just dig in because I don't see anything about it in Chilton or Haynes and I don't want to decomission my DD. Any help?

Went to England on a missions trip this summer. Took nearly a thousand pics, but Chirk Castle was one of coolest things I saw :thumbsup: We took the trip to Wales to visit this monster haha. It also has a huge hedge around the back and other cool stuff. I made a Photosynth of it at this link: Chirk Castle PhotoSynth

thats not rust man thats just a protective undercoating. rust is only bad when its holes :yes:

i used a new o ring when i put it back together, i just think it didnt seat where it belonged. thanks for the help guys. It's supposed to be warmer this week maybe i'll get out there and crawl around for a while and try to get it right again :ack: . and one more question, how does the vasoline work? just use it like glue to get the oring to stay where it belongs? thanks alot :yes: :thumbsup:

a while back my fuel pump went out so i had to replace it. I bought a new one and installed it with alot of effort :ack: . anyway i replaced the o ring and everything and had a really hard time getting the whole mechanism to seal back into its hole but i eventually got it. ever since then the gas tank has leaked profusely if i put more than half a tank in it. i know exactly why its doing it, the seal has to be messed up with that o ring. the question is what is the correct way to install this without it leaking? i did the whole swap without dropping the tank but if its necesary i can. I really need to get this fixed. is there some kind of a trick to doing it right or is it just a hit and miss kind of thing? thanks for any input

My brother bought an xj. it ran great was an automatic with a 4.0, 4x4 with d44 rear. he took all the doors off for summer and when he went to put them back on they wouldnt go. guess he warped the body :rotf: good thing for me because I'm buying it from him for 200 bucks :yes: if i were so inclined i could use his doors to do a power window swap, I'm going to take his axles to begin my 4x4 swap, but i don't want an auto so i still need to find a good ax15 with a transfer case.