kro10000

I always wanted to find an SX/4, drop a turbo high revving 4 banger in it, and make it a rally racer... Someday

:hijack: Just a thought, do our stock master cylinders have a residual pressure valve for the rear drums? And if so, won't it cause the rear disks to drag?

anyone?

It is normal for renix 4.0s to have a longer than usual (most cars) starting time. It usually takes 4-6 seconds or so to fire up.

:shake: I think it looks horrible, I never liked stepsides to begin with, and the rangers is one of the worst they make. Also the MJ and ranger have completely different design language. The MJ is boxy, and the ranger is curvy.

Sounds like WAY too much work, much easier to just give me the diesel MJ :thumbsup:

I'm trying to find a replacement speedo cable for my MJ. It's a 89 SWB 4.0 AX-15 4x4 w/ working cruise (until now). I have had no luck finding one through auto parts stores, junkyards, or from the dealer. I'd rather get a new one, so the only place I have been able to find anything is through EBay. The problem being is that the listings aren't very specific, I have no idea what length or type of fittings the cable has. And as my ability to work on my Jeep is limited as I live in the dorms here, so was hoping someone had this info on the top of their head. Would this fit? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/AMC-Chry ... 5194a0599d Thanks everyone

Try bypassing the fuel pump ballast resistor, I had the same issue and that was my fix

Last time I checked, a rebuilt 4.0 was around $1500-$1800 through O'Reillys, it has a 3 year unlimited mileage warranty... just sayin

The 5 cyl mercedes diesel Pete is talking about is the Mercedes OM617, if you google that you will get some more info. My buddy and I got a deal on one for his XJ for $200 after we pulled it from a 1985 300D, this one is going in place of the 4.0 in his 88 XJ. After tuning it up a whole lot you might pull similar power level to a renix 4.0, but we should pull some pretty darn good fuel numbers. Also the plan is to run it on WVO so we should be able to cut out almost all fuel costs. I'm using his swap as a guinea pig, so hopefully whenever I get around to a similar swap in the MJ, it should go relatively seamlessly. The packaging of the OM617 is one of the best parts, width-wise its a relatively perfect, and since its an I5 in place of an I6 you won't have issues with length. The oil pan usually will interfere with a stock height MJ, but shouldn't have an issue with some lift. Pics of the OM617 we pulled, sorry they are from my phone, so a little blurry Good Luck!

My brother did this successfully...

As far as I know. I just heard from him though, apparently he is getting no oil at all to the upper end of the motor, he is showing 40 psi of pressure at idle. Any ideas what could cause that?

After a whole lot of drama (involving the machine shop in Lawrence, KS) my brother has finally gotten the stroker in his TJ up and going... well sorta. Currently right now he is having a bucking and hesitating issue, the codes hes getting are the malfunctioning catalytic converter (rofl... it's not there, and hasnt been for years, so I am doubtful that is the issue) and codes that say there is no signal from the CPS and the CAMPS, but it starts up and runs (???!). I am wondering if this could be caused not from no signal, but from the two signals not corresponding with one another. I vaugly remember something about my brother losing his cps bolts and replacing them with hardware store pieces. He can't remember too well either, but he thinks he did. I heard on another forum that the CPS bolts have a shoulder on them to properly locate the CPS, so I am wondering if there is no shoulder on these bolts and the CPS is just a little bit off, if that is causing it to not correspond with the CAMPS and that is his issue. So here are my questions: Is there a special bolt for the CPS, also are there any variations in years? Could this cause a correspondance issue with the CAMPS and cause the ECM to throw a code stating there is no signal? Thanks guys

:agree: Tell her... Know your role!

Agreed, stay AWAY from the 0331 heads... especially the early ones (99-02) if you were to do it youd want to use a 0680 (IIRC)

:agree:

do it... Worry about the consequences later :thumbsup:

So a couple weeks ago when I was attempting to install my xj D44 in the MJ I was having some issues. I found that the center hole in the perch was far too big for the spring pin, but one of the offset holes fit perfectly, also my driveshaft was too long. Now my question was could I just use the offset holes in the spring perches that fit the spring pins perfectly, and (should?) set my axle back to where I could use my driveshaft without having to have it shortened? I have the huge rubber insulated driveshaft that I believe only came in the 2wd trucks, so I think it was shortened before for the conversion, but I don't know if there are any complications or higher expenses having one of these insulated driveshafts modified, also my time is limited to weekends as I have to drive 2 hours to KC to be able to work on anything, so this could pose a problem to having the driveshaft modified. Back to the question, will setting back the axle have any other issues, besides being a little further back in the wheelwells? WillI have to adjust the pinion angle to compensate? Thanks

Quoted :thumbsup:

http://www.facebook.com/?sk=ff#!/profil ... 1192651810

Well, last weekend I finally moved down here to Pittsburg KS. It's my freshman year here down at Pitt state and I'm going to be doing a double major with Mechanical Engineering and Automotive technology. I don't know if any of you guys have been around this area, but the tech center here is simply INCREDIBLE. They're forcing me to live in the dorms this year, which I don't mind too much since the guys on my floor are all pretty cool (even though its a mile walk to get food). The MJ is now serving DD duties, and unfortunately my latch ditch effort go get my matching gears XJ d44 in failed completely (due to the driveshaft length) it is stuck in 2wd until further notice. I did however, put my rebuilt d44 drums on to my d35 as I found the drums Ive been driving around with since last september were completely inoperable :eek: . It's depressing that the Kansas Rocks ORV park is less than 30 mins away and I don't have a working 4wd. Though it's probably for the best since I'm now a poor college student with no income, and I'd have no way to fix something if it broke (wonder what my dorm's policy is on working on cars in the parking lot...). The mustang is away in storage until I can figure out what to do with it. Anyway I figured I'd give all you guys an update :thumbsup:

:agree: Plus IMO the later (post 90) D35s are worse than the 87-89 D35s, with smaller minivan drums and C clip axles

How loud is it? My bet is either an exhaust leak at the header collector, or lifter noise

Again no pics... but I had a Countash drive down my street when I was out running, so I didnt have my phone. It was black with gold lettering :drool:

My aftermarket slave is going fine now... The first one did fail, and I'm on my sixth master (and its leaking) but I am too cheap for dealer, especially now they are free for me (lifetime warranty ftw)