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kro10000

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Everything posted by kro10000

  1. kro10000

    New Tow Rig

    :agree: about the trans. That said I'm still jealous
  2. I think itd be cool to do a GM gen III motor, id stay away from the LS motors but the 5.3s in iron and aluminum configurations can be found for cheap... Or the 6.0L truck motors
  3. Can't say I like the waggy front end either, maybe it would look cool if it were blacked out. To each his own :cheers: But IMO the best front clips are the 97+ and the chrome ten bar.
  4. Have you tried the ignition pickup yet?
  5. Better late then never right? Happy Birthday Pete! Hope it was a good 'un
  6. Dodge made a convertible dakota... but lets not try to draw parallels between the two :peek:
  7. Personally the only modification I'd make on the Gladiator is have a removable top. Otherwise I'd want one exactly as is
  8. :???:
  9. :agree: :agree: :agree: Two wheeled burnouts are sooo much cooler. Plus better traction off the line = faster ETs
  10. IIRC there is an ignition pickup located under the dizzy cap and rotor that could be the culprit
  11. http://www.autoblog.com/2011/01/11/marc ... kup-kinda/ :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: Jeep is getting a pickup, not that we havent heard that one before. However he might be the first person that tells the RAM brand to stuff it. We can only hope
  12. Got it figured out after pulling the drum, the e brake cable had frozen... I don't think ill be setting the e brake again while it is this effing cold.
  13. So today I was enjoying 4wd in the snow. I had no issued for driving around for a few hours but after I parked in 8 or so inches of snow I had some serious issues. I cannot move forward with any amount of traction but I can move in reverse fine. When I do try to move forward the back end kicks out to the left, and only the left. What I am thinking is the problem is that water has gotten into the drum while driving, and while sitting for long enough it froze on the left drum, and I have an open diff so the drum forces traction to only the left wheel. And since drums don't work well in reverse it doesnt affect it enough in reverse to give me abysmal traction. Anyone have any thoughts on the matter? :help:
  14. Well I guess since were reviving this thread... I'm a youngin' I'll be 20 on April 9
  15. Performance friction makes a good pad, they have a really good bite and I believe are US made as well. Stay away from Wagner
  16. Wow, complete opposite story here, it was around 70 degrees for most of the day so I put the top down on my brothers TJ (I stole it from him since he left town) and cruised around all day. Though I really want it to snow for a week just so finally getting my MJ 4wd again is worthwhile.
  17. Also from KC, I live in Pittsburg now for school. There are three pick and pull type junkyards in KC. There is the one off of 435 and Truman road, my favorite one is about twice the size, it is off of 435 on the exit directly north of the Truman road exit. It is half indoor half outdoor although all the ChryCo stuff is outside. Costs $2 to get into that one. However if you don't find anything you want at that yard you can get into the sister yard without paying again. The sister yard is off of Kansas Ave. I can't remember exactly where (strange because I was just there last week) but they will give you a sheet with directions at the yard N of truman. Last I checked there was an MJ at the Indoor/Outdoor yard. It was a red LWB 4.0 2wd 5 speed (didn't check which one) D35. Still had tailgate and taillights and was mostly clean. I didnt grab the VIN for the registry so make sure you do that. On recomendation though I would always go to the Kansas Ave. yard last, its probably the worst location and usually has the fewest jeeps. I got lucky one time though and found the D44 in an XJ that is now installed in my MJ. Yeah we all should get together at a yard sometime. Anyways welcome to the club and happy hunting!
  18. I just replaced mine with hard brake line, seems to work fine so far.
  19. It attaches to the bottom of the rod and has two holes on it (at least mine from the d35) that two of the differential cover bolts go through to attach it to the axle.
  20. Well for now the valve works, so there isn't really any reason to get rid of it. Id like to do a dual booster swap too, but I'm a poor college student so anything like that just isn't in the cards for me right now.
  21. In preparation for the snow I finally got down to swapping in my xj d44 to match my front ratio. I finished last night and ended up driving it 250 miles with no problems. What a difference 3.55s make vs 3.07s. Anyway my only problem is I am still using the load sensing proportioning valve and the bracket that bolted to the d30 does not match up to the d44. What have you guys done to solve this problem?
  22. Well... it was on a gravel back road, and shortly afterwards I found out my pitman arm and idler arm were pretty much shot :eek: , it definitely was a lot of fun. I don't think I would ever want to go that fast in an MJ.
  23. I had a 92 v8 auto longbed 4x4, and yeah it did not do very well on gas. The auto trans in those things are junk, mine had to be rebuilt at 80k, and 40,000 miles later the torque connverter clutch started going out. It had plenty of power though, in one of my stupider moments I maxed out the speedo (125 mph) and it was still pulling
  24. I once chased after a clean white shortbed... it had a d44 and a bunch of those magnum v8 badges that you see on dodge rams.. Lost him as he was turning onto the highway though. On another note I saw a trailer today with two red shortbeds on it today, he was going the opposite direction though.
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