kro10000

Don't waste his time if your not interested in buying it. Yeah, yeah... If only I had time, money, space, and no other projects I'd be all over it. Could only imagine the neighbors looks when they see me dragging this home, that's almost worth it in and of itself.

I used to be a die hard Firefox user, but I've since been converted, to google chrome. Very fast and appearance can be (mine is) very minimalist, I hate tons of toolbars forcing me to scroll more through webpages than I should. Plus with windows 7 it looks pretty sleek. :D Like this:

:agree:

:drool: Oh man I half want to just call this guy to come look at it... Got nothing better to do tomorrow :thumbsup: We shall see

Flat and roller tappets are just the style of lifter, flat obviously have a flat friction surface that mates with the cam lobe vs a roller tip. Flat and roller tappets can both be solid or hydraulic, which is where you are getting mixed up. Solid lifters don't self adjust and must continuously be manually adjusted, whereas hydraulic do with oil pressure, and don't need regular maintenance. Since flat tappets create a shearing affect when they mate with the cam lobe (whereas rollers create far less friction) they require that ZDDP additive that creates a sacrificial bond that is destroyed instead of harm coming to the cam. Or so I've read. This whole deal probably doesn't make any difference at all to the emissions or emissions equipment on a car, probably just more of a California gov't conspiracy to get all old cars off the road, just like this ethanol BS. They're like in my head, man :nuts:

I've run mine on a diet of strictly HDEOs (Heavy duty engine oil), mostly it is whatever is around. I used to search around to try to find any oil that was API rated SJ or SL instead of the newer SM and SN because they have higher ZDDP levels. But after spending some quality time on bobistheoilguy.com the SM HDEOs have enough ZDDP levels for our old-school flat tappet engines. The oils I've been running are old Delo 400 (SJ), rotella (SM), and currently run castrol gtx diesel (SL). And I only run a wix filter, and refuse to use any conventional oil marked pennzoil or quaker state, although pennzoil synthetics are supposed to be some of the best. FWIW I have absolutely no valvetrain noise that is audible with the hood shut, and I have 215,000 miles and counting. :thumbsup:

One time while I was driving out on a highway a car hauler came in the opposite hauling 3 red shortbed MJs, as I was driving my red shortbed MJ. Weird :nuts:

Erm, Toyota Axles :no: Haha, well I won't fault you for it, still an awesome CJ and I am completely jealous, Toyota axles or not. (I'm still in denial about the Aisin transmission)

IMO the original decal was the best, I don't like the dot com after. Of course it probably doesn't matter much since my MJ is far more likely to win the ''that heap still runs?'' award

Oh that's right, cracked heads not head gaskets. I guess its pretty much the same albeit a more expensive repair.

4 or 6 ? ok one mod cheap and works well ...please don't flame me on this one ! get some new ford 300 '' rocker arms that knocks the lift in the mid .400's without spring bind or wear... Wait what? I've been working with Jeeps for a few years now and I've never heard this one before. How did you come across this? ok i have been working for 30 some years on cars and trucks plus a bit of racing too...we found to cheat at times if a configuration of a different part is close and get a gain ,it may be overlooked by the techy ,hey we win ....i had to seal my valve cover one day ,4 years ago and seen the rockers ...said damn i seen this rocker arm config before .....next went to the tool box found one new in the package ...match it up the fulcrum point its about a 1/8'' closer to the pivot .next i took one rocker arm off one put it on turned engine slowly with feeler gauge at the highest point lift over .050 spacing -no binding turned the rest of the way slowly ....win ok all stop got more of them but one trouble was the valve cover ... the plastic one part of the pcv baffle area will hit so grind or cut [easy]so no hit is done --hand turn of engine is needed .... i have 60,000 miles so far plus other mods on her .....working well ... Being that youre not in the US, we would like to know exactly what you are refering to as a Ford 300. We in the US know the Ford 300 as an inline 6 cylinder engine used in Ford trucks. Is that what you are talking about??? If not, more detals would be appreciated! What a Ford 300 is, what years, all that stuff.We need to know more! :wrench: I am also really wanting to know, if this is correct a set will be finding its place in my MJ very soon

If you are wanting to get the front level then I would skip the chevy shackles in the rear. I would just pick up some 1-1.5 inch pucks for the front and a good alignment. Mine had lift shackles in the rear and 1.5 inch pucks in the front and sat with some rake, but since swapping in the D44 with the larger axle tubing and taller perches (Obviously I'm SUA) it dropped it back down to level. Personally I'd rather have some rake so when I'm hauling it sits about level, which is important for vehicle control and sight.

Sorry I have no technical info to add here, but I will say that thing is awesome :clapping: Oh yeah and welcome to CC :waving:

IIRC those 2.9s are known for randomly blowing head gaskets... Just keep an eye on your temp and you should be good.

I'd stay far away from the cork, unless you want to redo it in a couple months.

Mine's perfectly straight :cheers:

:wavey: Haven't worked on my Comanche in like 4 months, which is good or bad depending how you think about it (I drive it every day). Some would say I'm suffering Comanche addiction withdrawal, if there is such a thing.

I just shoved some rags up above the fusebox, change fuses out as they melt, and generally try not to think about it. I'm on my sixth clutch M/C and they've all leaked, but they're all rebuilt units. I refuse to shell out the big bucks that the stealership charges for a new one.

Something like 100hp, talk to the Honda guys. Also they did tests and it is proven that all the performance benefits of a nitrous oxide system are actually caused by the NOS decals. So to save some cash just buy the biggest decals you can afford and slap 'em on the side.

Just a thought, but I wonder if using the rear setup from a TJ or ZJ would be a good starting point. Then one could just copy the angles that Jeep used from the factory, would take some of the guesswork out of it, probably wouldn't be any easier.

Are you running air bags up front too? But I think if it were me I'd probably retain the leafs (albeit with a one or two removed) to locate the axle and mount the airbags up above the leafs for weight capacity. Might have problems with axle wrap though.

Pretty much an identical D44 was found in XJs, yeah they had shock brackets and different perch locations, and were SOA. But by that logic the D35 is also MJ specific. So I'd just say all rear axles. Just a technicality anyway :thumbsup:

...and maybe they can make a trailer hitch integrated into the bumper that is the correct size. :thumbsup:

Have you checked your blinker fluid?

Personally I set up the axle on jack stands, set the pinion exactly horizontal then measured the angle and distance of the perches. Of course this made more sense to me as I had to take the axle to get the perches welded on. I didnt want to set up the axle, measure the pinion, pull it all out to get welded, and then reinstall. But also this could make it easier to make sure everything is done properly, I just measured 3 or 4 times before I did anything