carnuck

It's still chain driven, but it's not a bicycle chain like the smaller cases. The shafts are much bigger inside too. The NP208C 32 spline was built to stand up to Chev big blocks behind the TH400 (there is a lighter duty 27 spline one for behind 700R4 and TH350), NP208DHD for Cummins in Dodges and NP208J to handle AMC 401s. The NP208F is even tougher with a larger input than the others (larger bearing, 31 tooth input, wider/longer chain with bigger shafts and rums) to handle fuel injected 460s and 6.9/7.3L diesels. Each has their own quirks. The rear slip yoke versions generally suck. (people complain about the light duty Chev one mostly but that's because of the plastic shift forks and short output shaft slip yokes) The Ford one is wider than the others with more LH offset (which was designed to clear C6 and E4OD trans as well as exhaust. Ford frame was widened too @'77)

At your house maybe. Jeeps go back to '41 or so.

Don't forget to change the pilot bearing in the back of the motor! Last clutch job on my Jeep, they skipped over it (wrong one came with the kit I guess) and now it grabs when my foot is on the clutch at lights. It jumped forward a couple times and the squealing drives me bananas!

I've had the head gasket weep and drip down onto the block. Put a piece of paper well above the "crack" and see if it gets wet. Even if the block isn't cracked, the antifreeze can crawl up the outside as it isn't as gravity prone as water (being thinner than water and all) NAPA sells stuff called block seal. I would flush and drain ALL the antifreeze you can, bypass the heater (reroute the hoses temporarily), then take out the thermostat and run that stuff in there.

It appears they block linking

I have a set of helper springs off the '76 J20 I "downgraded" (swapped my '84 J10's rear axle in and swapped the front brakes with knuckles so I have J20 brakes now)

I was thinking about putting the ZJ CV axles (from a V8 rig) I have into my '87 so the 242 setup will be smoother on cornering (it's going to be the wife's rig unless she gets this instead

I park on a loading ramp with the nose on as high an upward angle as I can get and let it sit for awhile.

I can pass this on to the AMC-list. There are quite a few people back east looking for 2wd AX-15s and AW4s (to put into AMC cars, like I'm going to do with the '82 Spirit I bought my wife. It only has 60K miles on it original!) and 4x4 ones seem to be a dime a dozen there. I wish, this way a 4x4 AX-15 will set you back at least $300 from the yard, and that's no bellhousing or anything else, just the trans itself. I'll pass this on then.

true, but the renix powerband is still in the 2500 RPM range. Try driving 55 in 4th, that should put you at about 2200 rpm, see what kind of mileage you get. I've tried higher and lower RPMs (I used to drive to Canada a lot) and found that cruising at 70 mph (posted limit on I-5 most of the way) at @1900 RPM, I get my best fuel economy on the flat stretches.

Only twice that I can recall (besides too many tickets when I was young and dumb) Had a car fall on my head Jan 95 (Duvall, WA quake knocked the civic off axle stands) that pushed my right eye out of it's socket (doc shoved it back in and I had double vision for over a year) and I lost several pints of blood from the rupturing of my left ear (basal skull fracture from the eye socket across the top to the back. Doctors figured I was going to die for sure. I even overheard them) Took 8 months to gt surgery on my left ear to restore hearing and coincidentally balance. In Sept, I drove my 40 foot bus/home to Seattle when I moved here (I had to wear an eye patch so I could tell where I was and not be messed up with double images but it was hell on my depth perception!) June 29 '79 I accidentally stepped into nothingness from the top of a 3 story building with an armload of bricks (I was learning to be a bricklayer) and landed with a brick under my back, which vertically cracked and the one above it broke a corner off, then lodged into the cracked one, cutting off the use of my legs. It was friday, payday and everyone took off early for a long weekend (July 1st is Canada's version of Independence day) and I was there alone. After laying about for a few hours, I realized no-one was coming, so I crawled to my car ('66 Grande Parisienne with stock Chev 396, dual quad, powerglide holeshot and 5 point harness with rollcage) and opened the door with a 2x4, crawled in, and drove myself to the hospital, using the board to operate gas and brakes till I got there. Just as I pulled into the driveway, someone cut me off and I dropped the board, catching it across the gas as I headed straight for the emergency entrance. (luckily no-one was in the way) I slapped the car into reverse, stalling it into a slide, then I slapped it into park and shut the motor off. "like a glove!" I was parked sideways across the entrance, about 2 feet from the door and 2 inches from the walls front and back. The attendants came out, saw no-one in the back and assumed I was drunk. Took 16 or so minutes to convince them I really was hurt (idiots!) and while I was in Xrays, it took 2 tow trucks to remove my car without gouging the walls (cost me $400 for the towing) My now ex-wife (and mother of my children) came by later, found out I probably wouldn't walk again and sat on the bed while she was explaining why she was leaving me and the bed collapsed as I tried to pull myself up. I also found out the company I worked for didn't pay for worker's comp or my taxes and they took off. I spent 6 weeks in the hospital (pretty much feeling sorry for myself), then by fluke I tried to signal the nurse for a bedpan, dropped the call button. Somehow the way I was twisted pulled the spine open enough to snap the bones back in place. I let out a whoop (first time I hadn't hurt in 6 weeks and I could feel my legs again!) and the nurses came running and freaked when I wasn't in bed. I was on the can, having the first of many enjoyable "normal" bowel movements since then and I got there under my own power!

True on the 231's....early models behind the AW4, and ALL models behind a 2.5L (regardless of tranny) are 21 spline. There are variations on the input shaft length, though, depending on the output of the tranny it was behind. Some outputs (AW4 and MJ/XJ AX4/5) are flush, and take a short input, but some others (YJ AX5 in particular) have a recessed output, and take a long spline input. You can use a long spline in place of a short (the extra just sits deeper into the tranny) but not the other way around.....the shafts will engage, but just BARELY, like less than 1/2". Ask me how I know (and have so much experience pulling trannies :cry: ) Jeff Have to input here just a bit. The 4 cyl 904 automatics are 23 spline only and shallow output ones. Same output depth as the full size Jeeps. To put the older shallow input tcases behind a long output later trans (say '91 up AW4 or AX15) you need a dana 300 THICK clocking ring (7/8" plus 2 gaskets so it doesn't bottom out) Image Not Found (this is my setup, currently in the for sale section)

The early AX-15 and BA 10/5 use the same clutch, but the pilot bearing and throw out bearing are different.

The 4 cyl and V6 got 904s. The inline 6 got 904 or 998/999. I can ship a 999 bare case for a 4.2/4.0L/AMC V8 pretty much anywhere (helps if one has friends in the shipping biz for overseas stuff though. I used to ship to OZ and NZ till UPS's prices spiked due to high fuel costs) The I4/V6 904's guts will mostly fit the 999 except the rear band and maybe the rear clutch drum (inline 6 trans got wider rear band) The tag on the RH side of this cover will say what ratio, but often the V6 3 speed auto came with 3.55 gears.

Same low range, but the 208J is 3 times stronger (or more) than the 207 and double a 231. Image Not Found This is mine I have for sale with clocking ring and AX-15 for $500 in Seattle

Here's a thought: Look for a Dakota with the 2.5L and get yourself an AX-15 upgrade! PS: If you are near British Columbia, my son has an AX-5 from a '94 YJ for sale for $300.

I can pass this on to the AMC-list. There are quite a few people back east looking for 2wd AX-15s and AW4s (to put into AMC cars, like I'm going to do with the '82 Spirit I bought my wife. It only has 60K miles on it original!) and 4x4 ones seem to be a dime a dozen there.

That's what I was trying to say when I said "tone ring". I was just about on my way to work and typing too fast!

I bought the electronic brake controller (uses inertia to engage the trailer brakes) and used my long box '86 with custom tow dolly (front wheels go over center on the dolly axle to put weight onto the tow vehicle and wheels have their own steering, with truck snow chains to lock the tires in place. It was made for Uhaul, then they sold me the prototype cheap) to haul a '73 F350, my '84 J10, a Grand Wagoneer, and a bunch of XJs plus my current MJ home from up to 100 miles away. That's a 4 cyl, TBI, 5 speed, 4.10 gears, LT235/75/15 tires and a slight brake upgrade. Wish I hadn't sold it now. I used it to take 1 car shell on the box (of my '73 J4000) and a rolling shell behind.

I have a Rough Country adjustable trac bar (got it on Ebay from this guy with item # 170091559565)

Best way for a cheap lift: Buy used 4.5" to 6" front coils, and Rough Country adjustable trac bar (current Ebay item # 170091559565 ) then make shock extensions out of 3" of 1/4" waterpipe (thread the inside to fit the top of the front shock), and use exhaust studs on top to allow for extra length. Get new front brake hoses for corresponding year YJ (a couple extra inches longer than XJ/MJ ones) That pretty much takes care of the front. For the rear, get shock plates to sandwich between the axle and spring, plus new spring pads to weld on top of your current axle. Use a level to match the new spring pads to the old ones on the bottom before welding (unless you get a SYE for the tcase and double cardan or CV driveshaft. Then you point the axle directly at the tcase yoke) Move the springs to the top and grind just enough off the old centering pin nut to fit into the center hole of the new spring pads. New Ubolts and centering pins would be better (longer headed pins to align through the shock plate into the axle are best), but if they are rustfree, you can get away with reusing the old ones for a bit. I modified the rear level sensor bracket (took off the level sensor) and moved the rear brake hose to it, and disconnected the extra line to the front. (eventually mine'll get an XJ or adjustable proportioning valve) So far, so good. With 33/9.50/15 tires I can stop quite well as long as I don't lock up the wheels when empty on wet or icy streets. I accredit that to putting AMC Eagle rear wheel cylinders in place of the MJ ones. (slightly larger bore, but I'm almost always hauling a load of something besides the canopy)

Look for a C clip on the shaft behind where the nut was. Some have them and some don't.

I'd sooner score a Mopar D60 from a Super Bee (that's just about the right width to bolt into an MJ) Had a line on one but haven't heard back yet.

I run 33" tires with a BA 10/5 on a SOA D35 rear /5.5" front lift with 3.73 gears. I can cruise at 70 mph (and do when I have a chance) and I get @17 mpg with 240,000 miles on my rig. Now to throw something else into this mix. The Renix setup is made for lower RPM efficiency. The HO's power band is higher because they wanted to do away with the EGR valve, and they retarded the cam shaft to do it.

Full sized Jeeps started in late '62. They went from 5 lug to 6 lug in '74 (and got open knuckle with disc brakes. First year for Cherokee as well) but they were RH drop until after '79. '80 to '83 Wagoneers and Cherokees came with LH drop front axles (some 2dr Cheros were wide track with the same front axle as the pickups) and '84 is the first Grand Wagoneer that died in '91. The Grand Wagoneer was basically a blend of the Wagoneer limited luxo add ons grafted into the Cherokee (same tail lights)