carnuck

I found an old photo of Sarge (my first ‘88 shortbox 4.0L converted to auto 4x4, SOA D35 3.73 gears and 33” tires) The other photo is the ‘00 XJ doors from a 2dr that I plan to use on an as yet not purchased longbed MJ with my shortbed and rear of the ‘88 shortbox cab grafted on. (No floors and possibly compromised frame but it’s 4.0L)

The full size didn’t come with full time 4x4 with stick transmissions from the factory. Dana 20 with 6 lug wheels and std trans until ‘80 Model year. They switched from RH drop front axle to LH in ‘80 and the NP219 was available for 2 years with std trans and 4.2L but rarely. The viscous coupler didn’t like the shock loads. Most standard trans after ‘79 came with NP208AM as a combo. The 727 and 999 Auto ones ‘80+ came with NP219 (80-early ‘82) and was called Quadratrac but was more like a Quasi trac and not to be confused with the Borg Warner 1339 used before ‘80 and only with TH400 automatic ‘73-‘79. Better than full time 4x4 NV249 but not by much other than being able to lock 4 hi when needed. NP208 was part time Commandtrac with no internal coupler or differential and often came with locking hubs. And there was NP229 Selectrac used in 90% of the ‘83+ FSJs till the end in Sept ‘91 except ‘86ish which got NP228 (same Selectrac as NP229 but no viscous coupler, like a non-posi axle)

‘76 Honda Civic

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The integral slave gives me pause and AX-15 second gear won’t like the 302 if you’re rough on it, but T-5WC doesn’t have a 4x4 version and the lighter duty non-WC ones were wrecked easily with a 2.8 V6. Don’t know about a NV3550 adapter for low cost but the Mazda 5 speed with 31 spline NP208F would be fun. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I started swapping mine out from a ‘90 before I moved to VA in Jan. I need to get back to it next week but the trans and tcase harness are on a separate plug. I’m bypassing the C101 connector in my ‘88. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If the oddball 3 speed std then it’s T15 or T86. 4 speed should be T18 (4:1 or 6:1 first gear if T18a) with Dana 20 tcase. D20 was used until ‘80 with std trans then NP208 and Other 23 spline shallow input NP tcases with 727 or 999 Mopar automatics. 6 lug wheels mean ‘74+ with disc front and power brakes. D44 open knuckle front and RH offset rear in J10 until ‘80. D60 rear in J20 with 8 lug and rare-ish rear duallies were available. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The 230 doesn’t have a MPEFI setup here but until 2004? They were used in IKA Torino’s in Argentina and Chile. It should be D44 closed knuckle front and rear can be 2 piece axle D44 or D53 (hard to get upgrades and axle bearings but precursor to D60-2 and super low geared) The early front frame needs beefed up for power steering to mount. The ohc motor is still popular-ish with the M715 crowd but many died because oils pre-zinc were too weak to save the cams. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The ‘90 longbox I was going to graft 12” of my ‘88 MJ cab’s rear onto so I could use the short box and 2dr XJ doors on it turned out to be too rusty for me to do that. Someone wants the back portion of the bed to chop down for practice shortening his but it has the rear X-section up to the driver’s seat that I considered making a trailer from but again, lack of lifetime left to do it all means stuff is going away. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

We used to do stuff like that years ago. We did a ‘61 Chrysler Saratoga with a hemi and 4 speed on an IH truck frame. A Javelin (floor was rotted) with tilt front on a Suburban frame. I Currently have a Saturn SL2 and a Spirit hatchback turned into an Eagle plus a J10 shortbox frame that could make a fun toy if combined. AMC 304 with 727 or AW4 (already balanced the flexplate for it) with a NP219am (quasi-trac) tcase and Wagoneer drivetrain. (Have an ‘82 Wag Shell with axles too unless they sell next week) It would have to be someone else’s project now. I will have an ‘89 MJ and an ‘84 J10 Sportside with 4.0L, AW4 and 242 tcase in each.

I recall someone not in the know spraying old school silicone lube on O2 sensors before installing. Poisoned it right out of the box!

Could be they came to a sudden halt (irresistible force vs immovable object results in weak link damage) and didn’t do the frame reinforcements before adding the plow.

I got kicked off again and had to do yet another update, restart my phone and so far it’s working. There were 5 big iPhone updates waiting that weren’t there before I restarted.

It kicked me loose again. I had to re-join the Comanche Club. Next will be rejoining tapatalk

I had to do the Tapatalk update to cure that. Works faster now. Log off and log back in after update. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

But did the previous owner use ether to start it? (That’s what happened to mine) There needs to be a breather hose in and a pcv out. Come to think of it, they put two pcvs on mine. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What about the ‘86s low floor hump? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

At least it’s brass. I would heat up the fitting area (Not with a blow torch which could catch the oil on fire) and stick an “icicle” (or use freeze-off) and the reverse-out bits or square cut easy out tapped in then turned after spraying with the freeze-off. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If it’s 0331, look for a cast stamp that says tupy or it may be cracked. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Depends what you mean by critical. For functionality or emissions? Did your motor come with intake? If so, then Renix has an EGR port and HO doesn’t. There is a casting number on the head that gives you a “range” of years it fits. Same with the block. Newer than ‘95? Has a month/year cast into it by the back on the driver’s side. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I was going to suggest swapping the spare 4.0L I have for a good 2.5 but I’ll probably be selling mine when I get back to where it’s stored.

Bosch had a round of mis-boxed ones some time ago. The wires in the plug weren’t done right. Check the stamped number on the sensor itself and if your old sensor is around, Check the wiring at the plug matches on both. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My ‘87 2.5 has an idler pulley and remote PS reservoir. The pulley was mangled so I ended up modifying a 4.0L one to work. There was something solid in the return hose from the reservoir so there was no PS at first. I switched in a 4.0L one I had but couldn’t keep the reservoir hose pipe in and converted to the 4.0L style on the pump and had to Space the pump forward to align the pulleys. The idler was a holdover from 2.5/4.2 with V belts. It keeps the serpentine belt from hitting the thermostat housing. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I would crank and possibly fire it up for a (messy) second to push out the brass bits that got in there. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It seems more than 1/2 the Jeeps I’ve worked on were already missing those front and rear manifold alignment studs. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk