Dave Stark

Wow, i thought i had a bug on my computer, guess not now...

So this thing started here for $3000: http://dallas.craigslist.org/mdf/bar/2058684944.html Then yesterday i noticed it went down to $2000, this morning he dropped it again to $1900 on this ad: http://dallas.craigslist.org/mdf/cto/2108752990.html I still think it's high, but if anyone would like me to look at it for them...

1991 Comanche Sport Truck 4.0L HO / AX15 / D35 / SWB Build date: Unknown (Not original doors) Current Miles: 156237 Current location: Grand Prairie TX Status: Complete restoration, in process Notes: I'm doing a ground up build on this one & overhauling each used component as i get them, it is receiving a 4WD conversion, Hell Creek 4 1/2" lift, Ford 8.8 in back, 4.10 gears, Mercedes OM617 3.0 Turbo Diesel re-power, & just about anything else i decide to load it down with.

I spy an AMC20. :bowdown:

This company makes a front bumper that is a good match for the JCR style rear bumper, i was considering seeing if they would make a rear bumper for our trucks. I'm ordering the XJ front bumper, hitch plug, D rings, simple & tough. http://www.custom4x4fabrication.com/front_xj.html

You need to find an inside micrometer with pointed anvils or a spring caliper. Measure from outside the score, then inside. The difference will be the depth of your score. Doing a quick search i found some inside spring calipers that should work well & get you an idea of how bad it is, this will not be terribly accurate, but should be enough for you to know if it's still usable... http://www.mcmaster.com/#spring-calipers/=92me03

I suppose i wasn't being as clear as i could be on this one. All engines vibrate all the time, it's inherent in the design, anytime there is a rotating mass it is impossible to have no vibrations, even on turbine engines that turn 50+ thousand RPM's. Piston engines typically have two peak vibration zones, the first one is usually in a lower RPM generally 1K to 2K RMP & it only lasts about 100RPM (this is the one I'm concerned with) it is generally considered a transitional vibe, the second one is your red line & is far more drastic. When you start changing the weight of the rotating mass at the end of the crank you change the vibration characteristics of the engine, a lighter flywheel means faster response & a higher RPM limit, but it changes the characteristic of the lower peak as well, possibly making it wider. My concern is that with a diesel engine that has a fifty pound flywheel going down to a thirty? pound Jeep wheel may move the lower vibe peak into a normal operation RPM & cause damage to my engine. I'm an aircraft engine mechanic by trade & after reading what i just typed i may be going a little extra rain-man on this one, but it's there like an itch i can't scratch... All of that being said, if there is an issue, the engine would exhibit signs of wear long before it had catastrophic failure, so I may as well go for it. :dunno:

Where would that be available through? Here is a link to the thread of the guy who's building the adapter: http://www.dieselbombers.com/diesel-engine-conversions/58670-mercedes-om617-5-cyl-turbo-diesel-engine-swap-jeep-wrangler-yj-conversion.html He's using the stock Jeep wheel, but I think it will be too light & cause vibes. If i can get a different flywheel & still use this adapter that would be great! :banana: ~Dave

Does anyone know the weight of the engine flywheel for 4.0 AX15 '91 model? I'm doing an engine swap & will need to use the Jeep's wheel. I'm concerned it may not be heavy enough for the engine i want to go with... Mercedes OM617 five cylinder turbo diesel. I believe the MB wheel is somewhere in the neighborhood of fifty pounds.

They should run at 210, the vents will drop engine BAY temperature, as long as your cooling system is working properly you should never have an issue unless you're driving in extreme temperatures. The temperature of the engine itself is controlled by the thermostat. :cheers: ~Dave

Welcome neighbor!! There is not many of us around here, in fact i bought mine in Las Vegas & drug it here. Believe it or not they pop up quite often on Craigslist. http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/cto/1955712732.html http://dallas.craigslist.org/ftw/ctd/1955674383.html http://dallas.craigslist.org/sdf/cto/1955477958.html http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/cto/1950029238.html I'm doing extensive work to mine & will have many usable parts leftover... :waving: ~Dave

They like it, they just don't want to work on it... :nuts:

The quality of parts in the lift are outstanding, it will be a while before I'm ready to have the truck drivable, but i would already recommend the kit. Yes, i was wondering if they are really necessary, or if the factory setup will be sufficient. With this information i will most likely go with the factory setting unless i have alignment issues that can only be fixed with adjustable ball joints, but i won't know that until it's all together. I may have to take you up on that offer, none of my friends around here want anything to do with this truck, but i'm sure they will want to go for rides in it when it's done. ~Dave

Another option may be the Cummins B3.3T, it has similar torque & weight as the 4.0, but is lacking a bit in the horse power department, but supposedly can be tuned a bit with an inter-cooler. Be aware if this is the direction you want to go, it is an industrial engine & may not pass inspection in your area... There's also a member on here that has installed a Cummins 4BT, but i think he had to have a 6" lift to fit it in the engine bay. Others have spoken of using a Mercedes diesel, but i haven't personally seen one. ~Dave

I'm replacing the ball joints on my new (to me) Dana 30 axle & wanted to see if anyone has ever toyed with adjustable ball joints. They are considerably more expensive, but if that means doing the job right then so be it. The old ones are already off & I am glad i pulled them, they were completely shot. While doing the 4X4 conversion to my truck I'll be installing a 4 1/2'' Hell Creek / Rough Country lift (already have), & 33 ~ 34" tires. "91, 4.0, AX15, NP231 Thanks... ~Dave :wavey:

Here is a link that will be helpful: http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=11077

Not really, stop drill to relieve the stress, then weld it up.

Mine is a short bed & all four corners have this issue, when i get into the bodywork portion of my build they will be getting my attention...

I just got an email from them today, they were having server issues. I also received my 4 1/2'' springs today!!

That is very strange, i just sent Tom Laher an email, so hopefully we"ll have a response tomorrow AM. I just ordered a 4 1/2'' kit from them, so i hope that nothing has happened...

I was doing some research today & found this: http://www.nwjeepn.com/Axleswap4.html I seems that the passenger side of the of the pumpkin did not have a relief cut for oil to return from tube when some of these axles were manufactured, so i went to the garage & sure enough: Passenger side: Drivers side: I guess i'll be getting out the grinding wheel before i reassemble this one. Definitely something to check for if you have yours apart...

Those numbers look about right to me, I never got better then 10mpg in my XJ with a 2" lift & 31's. They aren't exactly aerodynamic & these 4.0's are certainly thirsty...

The other thing i forgot to add is that the spring plate spacing center hole to center hole is 42". I can't remember if that was posted somewhere else, but there you go... :waving:

I was considering trying to mount the Explorer sway bar, but i'm not sure of the benefits for doing so. This will be a DD vehicle so i want it to be safe. Also, i'm not sure if it will interfere with the shocks when everything is together, so i may play with it some more later. The measurement i got on mine from the inside edge of the perch to the inside edge of the shock mount is two inches. Here are some pics to better illustrate: Here are the measurements from the inside edge of the brake mount to the outside edge of the perch: 4 1/2" on both sides. exactly what i plan to run. did you get one with the discs? what year did it come off of? Mine came from a '97 Explorer with 110k miles. The Explorer 8.8 is the Axle of choice because they ALL have 31 spline shafts, it is possible to find the 31 spline in some Rangers, but it only came in the higher end models & it really isn't worth the trouble looking for the proverbial needle in the haystack... :D

It has 4.10 gears with limited slip.