Marine1Texas

This is how my 87 mj has idled since day one https://vimeo.com/261183616

a few things that cause high idle are TPS that is not adjusted right, idle Air control valve that is not moving in and out all the way, then a air leaks. A air leak which could be in vacuum lines, seal around throttle body, and seal around intake manifold to the head. Use some spray carb cleaner to check for leaks on seals and possible vacuum line connections.. My 87 4.0 has never idled perfect since day one. when warm it idles about 750 to 850. it bounces around all the time between those rpms. If I click the a/c on it will idle 750 to 800 rpms when warm. I only run 3 vacuum lines on manifold, one to the ball canister, one for the pcv valve, and one for the fuel pressure regulator. Then the one on side of the throttle body to the map sensor. I don't have the line going to the egr vlave hooked up. I also have the EGR capped off. I know a dirty or bad fuel injector can cause idle issues. Of course cap, rotor and spark plugs can affect as well As Cruiser pointed out above do the tips above. The Renix has crappy ground system and would benefit all the way around for the tips. I went over board on the wiring and helped out a few things.

my 87 has off, on and start no acc

remember your oil pressure switch works off ground. If you have a bad engine ground it will read high. disconnect the wire and start it up, it will go all the way to the right. I bet you either have a bad ground on the engine. either that or the line that go's to the gauge is not up to par. To check if your gauge is good, ground out the line that plugs to oil pressure switch. it should go the left when you turn the engine on, if it does not you may have a switch that has bad diodes

I have the problem too when I wear boots in the truck. my foot can get stuck between the brake petal and the center trans hump. So if I drive a lot, I slip some teenie shoes on

I am assuming you can close the hood with some sort of air cleaner you have on it. the main thing is you using a carb or a throttle body ? if it is a carb I would say not to worry unless you going to do a scoop. Now if your using a thottlebody fi system, I am sure you can fab up a l bracket then a tube to a cold air box. They do sell 90 degree rubber elbows you could use. you may have to be inventive on how it is held down to the top of the throttle body. maybe as easy as using a large diameter hose clamp or getting the bend pipe or rubber to be held down with rubber stiff washers. little more info or pictures would help. Never SOL there is always away. If you have one of those short short wide air cleaners, I would look at a scoop.

all you need to do is this, find your self a hvac from a xj/mj jeep from 1987 up to mid 90's not sure the cut off date. you should be able to get a hvac box for a 100 or less. Than you need to get the right compressor for your engine. you can get the evaporator and condenser from places online like rockauto. get a drier with a pressure switch on it. Then get your hoses made or make them. Then you have the two option get the factory installed a/c controllers for dash, or you can wire up a toggle switch to a relay so you can kick the compressor on or off. I do a/c repair and installs on everything you can imagine. I like to do the toggle switch my self that turns the extra fan on and compressor, I can decide if it is too cold lol Then there are the after market ones. https://www.walmart.com/ip/New-A-C-Under-Dash-Unit-Universal-1860008/307400939?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=6035&adid=22222222227089883739&wmlspartner=wmtlabs&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=203309310184&wl4=pla-333849578132&wl5=9026890&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=115064719&wl11=online&wl12=307400939&wl13=&veh=sem These will still require you to get your engines compressor that match's your engine. You will then need to mount under your dash and run the a/c lines. you will need to cut some of your lower dah out to mount it. You will also have to install a drip line for your water condensation. You will have to get custom lines made. I think going the traditional jeep hvac install is easier and would look better. The controls you can go either way. either do a simple toggle switch hook up or install the factory controller and wiring.

these are LED and 30 dollars each. They are much brighter then oem. They take less power then the oem which is better on the wiring, and they make no heat. I have had good luck with these on my 87 mj and my 06 f250. I have had them for a year or so now, and they are still working great. They are plug n play. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013TMZUSM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Yea I bet that sealer your see. Both uppers we took sealant off and stick welded them.

Since day one our 87 mj has never been quiet. After the exhaust rusted off we put on a flowmaster 40 series with a 13 inch cherry bomb in place of the cat. It is a tad louder exhaust. We did add carpet over the rubber mat and some foam padding a few years later , but road noise just keeps coming in the same. When driving over 45 the radio is at 25 to 35 volume. when I am doing 70 have to jack the volume to 40 to 45. This truck just has such thin metal that noise seems to come right in. My 06 f250 is very loud, but the steel is nice and thick on the bottom so I hear almost nothing. The truck was built light, but not built to be quiet, my wifes 2016 trax is smaller, quieter however 1000 pound heavier. I am sure you could get much more quiet if you spend lots of money.

I agree the 87 4.0 renix runs out of steam above 3000 rpms. When I am out of 2wd low on the highway in 2wd high the renix has good low end Torque. Even in 5th gear, it is good from 45mph @1400 rpms all the way up to 80 mph @ 2800. When I am in 2wd low working in the back the truck just craws all over everything with no problem or revving much above 1500 rpms. It is a little 4.0 work horse of a engine that does not need to rev much to reach peak power. I like to shift right around 1900 to 2000 rpms when I have to get up and go. If I am putting around I will shift about 1600 rpms. I use the 31's with 4.10 on d44.

That was my problem too, that slave would just pop and give out without warning. We had one go out at 4k then at 7k then when out at just under 11k. That's when we switched over to ax15. My buddy in Czech republic says he gets about 45k out of a slave on his ba10. I always wonder if it was parts supplier! I still have the ba10 in shed with new clutch, and new slave. IN a pinch I can switch out in a couple hours if my ax15 ever went wrong

The BA10/5 was not a bad tranny. the problem is it was light duty for a 4.0 going off road, just way to much for its design. I have seen them go over 200k. However with offroading you will see them puke the guts out quick. I have a friend in Czech republic has one in a 88 that never off roads, but just street use. he got right around 250k right now and not a single problem. I have 2 BA10/5 in a shed that are pretty much new with less than 10k on both. I keep them around just in case with all the parts.

So for future search I got one from rock auto works on 1987 mj 4.0 Airtex-Wells 1T1160 works right price was good too $ 12.76. it is a little longer however it gets the same amount of turns to tighten without leaking and gauge is reading right.

Yes I would say that is or could be a real issue. he is in cali, I am in Texas, never a worry about that in our warm climates. They do make xenon kits that can be added. however they then need to put a relay since you risk melting the plugs wiring.

https://www.amazon.com/GENSSI-Headlight-Sealed-Replacement-Xenon/dp/B013TT9TE6?th=1 these ones here are the 4x6. these ones run less amps then the halogens 4.5 amps on low and 5.4 amps on high beams.

if it is 87 to half 89 they used ba10/5 and then mid 89 up they used the ax-15. They have 2 different crossmembers What mount you have, right side is ba10/5 - left is ax15 I find that easiest way to see.

I used these https://www.amazon.com/GENSSI-Headlight-Sealed-Replacement-Xenon/dp/B013TMZUSM. They are good price and I have not had any issue with burn out on my f250 or my mj. very bright and same watts as the factory halogens. direct plug n play.

Thank you Sir!

yep that worked! The gauge full ground makes it go all the way to right or hot. When off it is all the way to left. So now I will set out to try and find the right part. The old sensor died completely I retested it acted like nothing connected. I never changed the old one it same one from 87. the idiot light sender I put in was a wasted 5 bucks but it is ok.

I got my replacement instrument cluster today. It came out of the same year I have a 87 but it was a xj not mj. All went well plugged in fine happy that my oil gauge is working again as it should. My problem is I bought the new temp sender that goes on the back of the head. Installed no problems, however it is still not working. when I first hit the key it moves a bit then right back to under 100 on the new cluster/same as old. So looks my old cluster was not completely bad. So I am going to check the wiring to make sure the circuit it working right, I will do later this weak after the rain passes. Now I am wonder what part number is the right one. I got the part number BWD-WT387 that was all they said they carry at local auto part store, was 4.99 so no skin off my back if it was wrong one. I found these part numbers online AIRTEX/WELLS 1T1160 and FOUR SEASONS 37407 They say Sender with gauge so I am assuming they are the correct one. Can anyone tell me affirmative on these part numbers? or if they are wrong the right one!

EGR valve is to remains closed until the engine is warm and is operating under load, so around 1500rpms and up. it is not designed to open on idle at all. There is no need for EGR to open up at idle, so if it is opening up at idle somethings wrong. Since no inspection, unplug the vacuum line to your egr valve and plug it. Now the high idles I suspect either a bad iac valve or a leak. leak could be intake gasket, could be throttle body, or a vacuum line. get some carb cleaner and spray around intake, and vacuum lines. I find when the iac valve is not working is gets stuck all the way out or in. causing super low idle or super high idle. The iac should close when you are revving and then open back up as rpms drop. I would check there after you did above.

#3 Your valve cover has a line that blows the excess crank case pressure in to your intake hose over your air filter. if your getting way to much pressure it will start squirting oil. that orifice tube that you have on back of valve cover must be clogged. Either clean it out, or convert to a pcv valve. I did the pcv valve and on front where your oil is coming from, I got a small breather filter. 1# So it idles at almost 2k? or you mean it is idling around 1k? 2# have you check to see if your egr is opening and closing right? Also is the vacuum lines hooked up right? if your in a non inspection or smog checking state, county, you can egr delete, or just remove the vacuum line and that comes from intake to the valve on your right fender and plug it.

the ones I got do have the plastic.

The ones I got are very cool after running for a hour, in fact cooler then the halogen ones. they draw 65watts on high beam and 55 watts on low so 4.5 amps on low or 5.4 amps on high.