Marine1Texas

yep agreed pete! I have a ax15 and it is great all the around. I almost never take it out of 4 wheel drive. Just put a 428 ecm in it and it seems to have a bit more I think!

Minuit, ballast resistor only used after prime of pump. ECU primes the pump and bypass the ballast resistor for 2 to 3 secs.

Well if you need it for emissions then you need it working. here in Texas no emissions after 25 years old. So I just plugged it and took vacuum line off. I don't see it running warm my self with out it hooked up. N0x gas is what EGR is for! The easy way to test is. idle the engine and push the diaphragm in by hand. you will notice that it is working or not. Once you know it is working when you do the manual test you need to test if vacuum is working to open diaphragm. hook it up directly to a vacuum on the intake while idling, you will notice it working or not. if it opens that means you may have to vacuum opening issues with the solenoid valve. could be not hooked up correct, bad vacuum hose, clogged vacuum hose or solenoid valve nothing working. See the EGR does not always come on, and your ECM tells the solenoid valve to open and close the EGR. I see no need for it, because it make lots of carbon build up on intake

Yes as your Dad said. BA10/5 is a light tranny. If your just doing light stuff it will last forever. I here stories of how bad it is. yes if your going to tow or off road with it, it not going to last. I have one that still good that has 350k on it. It is good for high way driving. but a AX15 would last longer and you can abuse it more!

I have the same wires hanging. I think they are to either abs option or cruise control option

This is a pdf of wiring http://oljeep.com/gw/elec/cherokee/91076b23.pdf

If your not getting any prime, Remember check ground being left rear tail lamp it is connected to pumps negative line. Always make sure the connection points are good and not corroded. The pump gets power from two locations. The relay supplies both locations for prime and full time running. The yellow wire that supplies power to open relay, also passes thru to the ECM. ( you said relay is working, but good to use volt meter to check) So your see the yellow wire on relay plug also attached to a orange/black wire which go's to the ECM. It is the ECM'S job to prime the pump. (this is the pass thru for prime) It plugs in to port A5 the 6th wire from the end of ecm. You can remove ecm turn ignition on and check voltage. if voltage is good then you need to check positive wire that go's from ecm to fuel pump. It is a solid orange wire right next to the orange/black wire. it go's directly to the fuel pump. Now that is a long wire so your need to find a easy way to test that the current is going thru the wire. If wire voltage is good and connections are good on pump side you have a ECM issue. Now if your getting prime and not a continue power for pump you need to check the red wire on the relay, that connects to the starter. if voltage is good and relay is working as it should you then need to check that solid orange wire that go's from relay to ECM. again you can remove ECM and test the wire. The wire from relay will be the 4th wire from end. don't mix up with other three orange wires they are all side by side on ECM 4,5,6. now if voltage is good then you have a ECM issue.

I have a fuel pump Ballast Resistor up front on driver side near air box. Mine came factory that way. I replaced it about 2 years ago because it broke in half. I know on start it bypasses it. I would check connection, could be some corroded connector.

I ordered a fey bumper at 4wd parts a few years ago for my 87 longbed. It has a 5000 tow and 500 rated stamped on it. I did not use a ball, but bolted the 2 inch hitch tube receiver. I got the receiver from harbor freight and the bumper from 4wd parts. The brackets I thought were made weak. So we but 1/4 corner joints and welded them on to the brackets. Never failed us yet. I am sure I have put more then the max on it and not even a bend. at least 2 times I remember pulling out one of my tractors that weight about 20k stuck in the clay river bed.

could be a bad clutch, could be a faulty expansion valve. If your going to replace any parts make sure to replace the filter.

1st test the battery to see if it has discharge going on it, could be bad and not holding a charge. 2nd test alternator. many new battery charges can test alternator and the battery. Most alternators put out 60 to 90 amps at 1500 to 2500 rpms. Of course to recharge what it takes to start the car normally need to run the truck for 10 to 15 minute. can be more or less in speeds. idling does not really put enough charge out to restart unless your idling for a vast amount of time. Take in mind if your using a 2000 watt system and using 1000 watts that is about 83.3 amps. So it is pushing what your alternator can handle. During those times your using half your power of 2000watts your using both battery and alternator. if you don't shut system off and allow to recharge you will end up with dead battery in no time. If your going to push your truck like that, best bet to get a larger alternator. They have 200 amp and higher alternators that will do for the power you need.

yes sounds like the fan clutch is not turning the fan as it should. When truck is still or idling the fan clutch should be pulling air thru when it is warm. If it is electric fan only then you need to check if temp sensor for e-fan is turning it on. That's the places to start before you move on to other things!

I have found, Every 5 years or so it is good to pull those relays and check all the connectors out around the truck. Little sand paper and some electric contact cleaner, there yea go. Owning a Comanche I find this is the only real problem is the electrical wiring and connectors. Mechanically not had any issues other then wear and tear replacement. These truck's last forever as long as you keep electrical in check!

If that was the case the battery would not last long. If you notice in most cars if your head lights are on with out engine running the lights are dimmer. as you start it the get brighter. that is because of the volt increase. Think of cars when they had hand crank, they had no battery, however had headlights and what not. The Generator of those days supplied the total electric. The way new cars work is almost the same. Other then not a dc generator. Have you ever removed the battery while a car was running, it keeps running, unless alt is bad.

fuel pump relay, 02 sensor relay, IAC relay (latch), if you had air conditioning there would be a 4th the a/c relay

Your battery if drained or over heated can make low volts. Now when the engine is running it should be running off your alternator if it is good. When at idle alternator should be around 13 to 13.5 volts. As you speed up engine rpms to around 1100 to 1500 the volts can go up to 14 to 14.5 volts. If there is a drain on the system it can make the lights dim yes, like a bad battery taking up a lot of amps to recharge it. Now this is also a common problem with bad grounds. You need to check your ground and refresh them. If grounds are not got a good connection then charging will not be as good. Check or refresh grounds, and clean contacts on head lights. after you can check your alternator volts and then battery. Battery is only for starting and running things while engine is off. After started the alternator should take over and supply higher volts then the battery for engine and accessories.

looks like a BA10/5. for air bags to work you will need to find out how they fill up!

when he said carb he did not mean it was a carb engine. it is fuel injection. he meant egr came from carb days that a lot had egrs.

for those air bags do you have a pump on the truck for them? or do you manually have to pump it with compressor? you should check to see if they hold air. just because it looks the way it does, does not mean it does not work. I had a Lincoln one time that had air bags that would allow lowering all the way to the ground, and also making it look like a 3 inch lift. it had a pump with no leveler control. You pumped it manually with a switch on the dash.

if your clutch fluid was low, you may have a leak. make sure it is not leaking in side down behind you fuse panel. it can cause problems and eat up some stuff on fuse box.

I would check your fuse box contacts. The clutch fluid is know to drip on back of fuse panel and cause problems. Before I moved my fuse box away from firewall it ate up my turn single connection. Could be a good place to start. My computer seems to always be warm after I run the truck. I my self never had a cut out issue like you have. another note, In another post I read some one had a bad ground to the coil and it would do something like what is happening to you as well. Where the coil is ground, it can become corroded

very available and can be made easy too. I made all of mine. You can always get a hose man to make them, if you can't find one to replace it.

It work really well. if you leave it on high for more then a hour, you need to turn it down, it will spit out small chunks of ice. This one is a coolmaster! made in Florida. People don't like the way it looks, I really don't care, it is more about keeping cab cool when I run the farm and stop leave truck idling for 5 minutes with door open. the truck stays cool while doing that. Even at idle it keep truck very cold. The air flow is also about 4 times stronger then the Comanche box air as well. It has 2 fans on the back. You can get in other colors that match the dash as well. We have another brand in our other Comanche it fits completely under the dash and runs thru the vents. It does not blow as hard or get as cold I have found. When it is 110 degrees here in Texas, I rather use this truck and A/C then my newer dodge truck!

thank your Sir!

1987 Jeep Comanche 4wd 4.0L Looking for the nut size for front wheel assembly hub. Today while pulling a bobcat tractor out of a sink hole while in 4wd I felt the bearing pop and after I got back to the front shop, I raised it up and yep the bearing is shot.. It has been so many years since we replaced it last I can not remember the size and I don't find the right size in my tool boxes. I think it is a 36mm. I will be replacing both sides just to be safe so while I am ordering the wheel assembly hub I will order the socket too. Thanks for the answers ahead.