bighause

Ratchet straps are my preferred method as well but the jack would give more leverage I couldn't imagine being under a vehicle on jack stands that were on grass! No way! Lucky no one got hurt.

I did the same swap and had two problems, I didn't hook up the "telephone wire" (I think that's what it's called) it's the thin one that runs to the stalk. Its not part of the 2 large connectors that are on the column. I also found out my switch on the stalk has to be wiggled a little sometimes for it to work.

Agreed, I had a 97 XJ 5spd with 3.08's and 31's and it was terrible. 4.10 is perfect for 31's or 32's. Works ok with 33's but I wish I had 4.56's

GJeep, I very much appreciate the time it took you to put together the wiring info you sent to me! I never would have gotten it figured out without your help. I worked on this a little at a time and can't wait to get it finished in the next few weeks I do have the correct orings and will be coating them before assembly. Thanks for the tip on the correct oil, I'll be sure to swap it out. I do have a new also drier that I'm installing once I get ready to charge it. Looks like I will use 134a after all, thanks for the quick advise from everyone. I'm sure with the small cab It'll get plenty cold in there

Are you guys running 134a without changing the condenser or anything else?

I have access to proper r12 and r134a gauges and a vacuum pump so I will be pulling vacuum on the system for several hours to make sure I don't have any leaks. I don't want to waste money on buying refrigerant twice and I'd rather not pay for another condenser since I have a good factory one already. I was originally planning on just charging it with r134a once I'm sure there are no leaks, but I'm concerned it may not cool properly. Maybe I'm over thinking this?

I finally finished the process of adding factory air conditioning to my truck and I'm ready to have the system evacuated and charged. I got all the parts out of a 89 Cherokee and replaced the drier and all the orings. Being an 89 it was running R12, I'm not sure what to charge it with. Everything I've read tells me r134a in a converted system will not cool as well as R12 due to the condenser size differences. I've read a little about Freeze12 and I'm not sure if that would be a better choice than r134a or not since it is mostly 134a with some additives. Anyone recommendations or first hand advice? Summer is nearly here in Texas, I need to get it charged soon.

The stock cables are long enough. I am SOA with a 8.8 and have enough slack. If you plan on using lift springs and SOA you might have a problem then.

The 01 XJ I owned had the head crack on cyl 3 and it had the 0331 head I've owned 6 4.0's with high miles and the 01 was the only one that I had any trouble with

Then again the 2000 and 2001 4.0's are famous for the heads cracking. They had the 0331 casting on the head

You have to loosen the adjuster under the bed of the truck completely to allow enough slack to remove the cable from the pedal assembly

Ive never found a cheap white double tube shock that did not ride like crap. Spend the extra money to get good shock the first time. Both jeeps I tried cheap shocks on I ended up replacing the shocks pretty quickly due to the rough ride and wasted $150 in the process each time. Never again! OME or Bilstein only from now on

It's actually pretty clean... Most over lifted MJ's are all beat up

The bolts on the upper control arms are torx bolts so make sure you have a set of torx bits. I've done this and it's pretty straight forward. Sometimes getting the control arm bolts lined up is a bear but a ratchet strap to pull it into place works great.

I still need one of these

I bent my axle in the sand dunes and that's what it looks like. Might as well swap in a 4wd front axle while you have it apart for the lift.

Monday works, I'll even be heading that way Monday morning. I'm picking up a engine near Terrel for a 2001 XJ that I'm fixing up

I bent mine playing in the sand dunes last weekend and need a replacement. Must be High Pinion and have 4.10 gears. It doesn't matter if it is a disconnect housing or not. None of the JY's near me have any with the right gears.

I fought a squeak for a long time. Mine turned out to be two things: harmonic balancer rubbing timing cover and the double bearing on the shaft for the mechanical fan

When I upgraded my gauges, the first one I got from the junkyard had a broken tach. Everything else worked, but the tach did nothing. Swapped it for another one and problem solved!

Another vote for better shocks

I have been running General Grabber AT2's for over 3 years now on my liberty and they have been great, very similiar to the BFG's but considerably less expensive. I'd buy them again in a heartbeat and plan to put them on my wife's Land Rover when it needs new tires

I need help wiring my AC swap from someone who has a truck with dealer installed AC. The dealer installed AC system uses a 4 pin weatherpack connector located in front of the washer fluid tank to tie into the underhood wiring harness. I need pics of the AC wiring harness and connectors used for the relay, low pressure switch and compressor clutch. Once I get the wiring completed, I can sell my donor XJ and use those funds to buy the AC parts I need. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

If you're not planning on adding larger tires the factory 3.55 would probably be your best bet.

Have you checked to make sure it isn't the tires? My friends Rubicon had the wobble and threw parts/money at it for a while, it got better but it was never right. He and I swapped tires and it was like a new Jeep, consequently my MJ wobbled like crazy with his tires on it. He had balanced the tires at 2 seperate places before that and it never made a difference. If you know someone with similiar size tires, I'd swap them and see