AMCJeepMJ

I am not trying to seperate the leafs, only remove the packs. The packs seem attached to the perches [u-bolts and shock mounts have been removed], and they will not seperate even with not-so-gentle persuasion with a hammer. Everything has been soaking with liberal amounts of WD40 since last night to loosen things up. I will take a closer look at it this evening to reevaluate when it cools off.

There's an 83 J-20 4x4 for sale locally at a local pre-owned lot. They want about $3k [originally $5k] for it... still a little rich for my blood these days. I've been eyeballing it for about 2 months now since its right on the way home.

I think we can share. :chillin: I suggest playing cards on her back.

The springs are C-clamped together so they don't go a-flyin'. Looking at the perches, there doesn't appear to be much maneuvering room for a new centerpin, should the original be removed via saw or other means. Is there a trick to getting new ones in, or am I must misunderstanding how they are put together?

So I finally got the rear axle and springs out as one piece last night. Finally. So I am proceeding with trying to remove the leaf packs from the axle and everything is going smooth until I see the centerpin bolt has a generous helping of rust on it. I carefully gave it a shot of WD40, then try my selection of sockets to find the appropriate one, give it a few minutes to soak, and start on the right side. After realizing I was rounding the bolt instead of actually turning it I stopped. Which leads me to three related questions: 1- How to remove the nut from the centerpin when I wish to reuse all the parts? 2- Should I decide to cut off the centerpin bolt/nut, what will I have to do to replace the damaged centerpin? [will this require welding and perches?] 3- Should there be a nut there in the first place, or should it all come easily apart when the U-bolts have been removed? [my handy-dandy Haynes manual mentions nothing of a nut/bolt in that location when removing leaf springs]. Please advise, and keep in mind I have no welder.

:agree: I have done exactly this many times on the underside of my Jeeps trying to break bolts loose.

I wasn't going to say anything... but did you know the grille is upside down? ;)

Move [push] the truck forward or back about a foot or so, so the bolts on top that are being difficult are on the 'bottom' so you can get to them easier.

Here's pics of my 86's headliner. See if it matches what you have. The pleasant side: The dark underbelly:

I will make another attempt with the breaker bar after a few good whacks with a hammer on the remaining two that have been soaking for a few days. Should I get frustrated, the Sawzall will come out and at that point all bets are off.

Very cool! I've always dug the new Challenger, but this is niiiiiiiiiiiiiice!

Haven't had that problem yet with them rusting to the bushing... fortunately and knock on wood. I have a replacement set to use; I don't intend to reuse the crusty ones.

Drove one to work and back, and looked at the other sitting in the garage in disgust.

Flush the brake lines with new fluid and bleed it til new fluid comes out. It'll make a world of difference, especially if the fluid is dark or black. New pads/shoes will help too. Cheap and easy fixes.

The paint makes no difference on the impact survivability of the bumper; it is for cosmetic purposes only. On a side note, both of the chrome rear bumpers I have are bent/damaged to some extent.

I don't want to sawzall the bolt [even though I'm tempted]. PB Blaster is apparently good for nothing apart from stinking up the garage and melting styrofoam. Looks like I better buy stock in Elbow Grease to finish the job. Once I get these little jerks out, what's the recommmended torque to put them back in when it comes time to put leaf packs back on?

Due to lack of air tools, I'm removing both leaf springs and D35 in one piece by hand. I am finding that the 21mm bolts that hold in the leaf springs are nearly impossible to get loose, and when I do manage to get one loose, it takes a breaker bar [18" section of 1" diameter pipe] on a 1/2" ratchet just to turn the nut on the bolt! I have used PB Blaster on one bolt and then WD40 on the next, and they are still way tough to remove even after soaking for several hours and tapping it with a hammer to 'convince' them to loosen up. I'm sore from doing just the two rear bolts! :grrrr: Any suggestions to ease the removal of the two remaining bolts?

What's wrong with you? Of course its worth it! Six hundred for an MJ is always worth it unless its complete wreckage... which this one is not.

I'm right there with ya on the frustration level. Between the workload and new procedures at work, dealing with the ex and her high levels of stupidity, and tearing apart my parts truck, I'm ready to crash every night at 9. Just freakin' wiped out.

January 2016 update: Now have replaced the alternator and water pump [sep/Oct 2014], and painted the fiberglass canopy to match [beige] and new LED light installed to illuminate the bed. Now 213k on it. Amber KC lights are now gone, and headlights are Hella H4s. Lower air dam extended by modifying an 80's S10 air dam, for aero purposes. Grill slots partially blocked on sides, again for aero purposes.

1986 Jeep Comanche X 2.8 V6 / AX-5 / 4WD / D30 front / D35 Rear/ long bed Build date: unreadable Current Location: Central Oregon, USA Status: Scrapped Notes: Color: medium metallic blue. Interior: blue vinyl. 5th wheel in bed. Heavy duty suspension. Acquired July 2011, scrapped summer 2011. Current owner: scrapyard

Its easy to find on the drivers' side of the TC. It takes a 1" wrench to remove... just disconnected one last week on my 86.

I think I had every NES game you showed there. Battletoads was unnecessarily difficult. The turbo button on the joystick controller was a nice feature. Make sure you pick up for your NES collection: Mega Man 1 Faxanadu City Connection Super Tecmo Bowl Guardian Legend

Beige Clearcoat, 1987, carryover color from Renault.

Still as funny as the first time I saw it!