mnkyboy

At least 4.5" and you may still need some trimming. People have done it with less and a ton of trimming. My truck is lifted about 7" with alot of trimming.

I have 4.88s with a 2.5l and AX4 turning 33x12.50-15s. On the road it feels slightly over geared and I could definitely make use of a 5th gear but otherwise its great. I would look at 4.56 or 4.88s

The firewall changed because of the 4.0l. In addition to the 2.5l 1986 had the 2.8l V6,in 1987 the 4.0l came out so they had to make room.

Why not go to a local fabricator and have them build you exactly what you want. Most rock rails seem to use the pinch seam on the rockers as a support so IMO most of the off the shelf sliders can damage the rockers on a hard hit. I have heard of people adding additional supports to help with that but who wants to spend $300+ then have to modify them.

Your probably not going to find a lift kit for a VW. Your best bet is to check out other bajas and sand rails then piece something together. most people just crank up the torsion bars to lift them.

I had a 72 super many years ago. Being a standard should make it pretty easy to make a baja,it will have irs with an I beam front so there's lots of options for suspension.

Is your 72 a standard or super beetle? Its hard to tell on 71/72 because both models had flat glass so they look about the same.

My kid just started building a 67 bug. He wants to make a volksrod out of it.

I made my own.

I drove mine home for $400

Your location would help.

Problem is that the lug nuts/stubs job is to hold the wheel on,not support the entire rig. Every time you hit a bump you are sending the impact into the side of the lug studs,this can cause the lug studs or the spacer itself to fail. You will also find cheap spacers are not anodized. Raw aluminum will rot over time weakening the part which can lead to failure.

Good point, its important to recycle. Not only is it good for the planet but it gives the inferior part a second chance at being turned into something useful.

http://tires.about.com/od/understanding_wheels/a/hub-centric-vs-lug-centric-wheels.htm

Spidertrax hub centric spacers. Ebay garbage. You can see they are lug centric rather then hub centric which is not safe.

Are they hub centric and anodized? If not I would toss them in the trash. Cheap spacers are unsafe and the reason spacers get a bad rap.

I ran without front flairs for a while, it will throw mud like you want. Problem is it throws it directly accross the windshield, it got old fast and I ended putting on a set of cutout flairs.

Spidertraxs spacers are good, just make sure you buy something hub centric and anodized. Don't buy cheap spacers no matter how tempting the price is. For the cost of quality spacers you could probably pick up a set of aftermarket steel wheels with a better offset. Darren here on CC had the crushers on an XJ, IIRC he liked them.

This is where the shut up part comes into play, if some low life up and disappears one night why would anyone suspect you unless you told somebody.

The nozzle should have been fine, a 1.7 is usually used for primer so it should shoot fine. I use a 1.7 as a primer gun, my main paint gun is a 1.3, and I have a 1.0 for touch up.

Probably too much air pressure. Is that gun even rated to be ran that high? I would have reduced the paint and cut the air pressure by about half.

Shoot, Shovel, and Shut up.

I see them go for around $200 all the time. I gave $150 for mine. Up here pick and pull gets $130 with a $30 core for them.

Problem is cheap spacers, most of the guys with issues are running cheap non hub centric wheel spacers. If you want to run a wheel spacer go with something like the spidertrax spacers which are anodized to resist rotting like the cheap ones do and they are hub centric. If you don't know what hub centric is read this. http://tires.about.com/od/understanding_wheels/a/hub-centric-vs-lug-centric-wheels.htm

Drilling the mount is kinda hokey IMO, but that's exacly what RC says to do with their basic 4.5" kit.