dankicksass

Didn't read this whole thread but it is well documented that running with no mufflers makes less power than with a factory muffler, nice muffler or even a cheap muffler. Chevy High Performance had a shoot out a few years back, Pretty sure Borla won but straight pipes definitely came in dead last.

He'll probably get his $5k, looks very clean.

Two extra doors will cost so much less than an extra bed... Obviously the doors don't go all the way down to the bottom of the bed but if you're doing rock sliders, it's not going to make a difference because you'll cut there anyway. That's how I'd do it if I were you and didn't want to cut the frame in the middle. That always seemed like a giant pain in the @$$, sleeving or doing that band-aid patch thing. I don't know the proper terms but I'm sure you know what I mean. You could stitch it in to the front of the bed or do like Dodge with the skinned separate piece, which IMO would be loads easier. I can't remember if they actually sold these.

I started doing rust removal on the bed and fitting TJ Rubicon flares. You'll notice the flare template is pushed all the way up to the body line. This is where I find it most pleasing.

A long bed has about 6in more on each side of the axle. You're not going to find 20 extra inches. You could build yourself a skinned fuel transfer tank or a locking trunk between your existing bed and cab if you have 20 inches to fill. Pick up an extra set of doors and you'll have plenty of sheet metal to skin whatever you want without a ton of work.

If you're anything like me, you just got back from the junkyard with a fresh batch of 136A upgrade alternators ready to kill in the mud. You just took them off the Dodge trucks because they're plentiful and right on top so they're easy to get. But in your haste, you grabbed the wrong alternator and your new one has a quick connect plug instead of the usual ring terminals. This isn't a problem. As long as you grabbed a quick connect pigtail, you're fine. If not, you can go back or try the dealer or ebay. I found one with a quick search for $17 - #RPT-52010. This is really easy wiring. They didn't even change half of it. Connect the green wire to the green wire, which goes to the PCM, and connect the other wire (colors may vary) to what you found next to the green wire. If your factory harness has a ground wire, ground it. Piece of cake. If it's your first time with the bigger alternator, you will need to introduce your grinder to your alternator bracket, upgrade your alternator V+ output wire, and you're golden. You don't need to grind a lot, it's not a big deal. Here's some diagrams and a photo of some alternators to grab some attention. Dodge 136A Alternators Typical stock wiring Dodge ALT plug

I think I'm going to trade it with my buddy Tom for one I won't feel bad cutting up, if he wants it.

Mine is a 91 too and I figured the bed mat was older because of the AMC logo. Good looking out John. [emoji106]

I have a rubber bed mat with the old AMC Jeep logo in my truck. It's molded specifically for a long bed, not aftermarket looking cut to fit short or long. Is it legit? I'll include photos but they're not easy to see.

My rear under bed area is free of the spare. I took off my broken spare tire winch and the factory accessory spare tire bracket (that isn't broken, was the only thing holding my spare up) and my spare will be mounted in the bed with a TJ spare mount this week. There's room for a 35, heck maybe even more there. I just want a poly tank for the stock location so I don't have to worry about it, and I'd like it to be at least as big as the stock tank. If I lose a gallon for a Dakota tank, that's not a big deal, worth it to get the poly tank.

I'd consider adding a TJ or XJ tank behind the axle but I haven't gotten that far yet. I'm shortening the rear overhang eventually so that's a tomorrow problem. My stinky gas tank has to go soon.

I'll probably be going to the junkyard with a tape measure and a strap cutter soon. The three tanks on Rock Auto are all 23.5 gal. With the stock tank hitting my stock suspension, I really want something different.

Yesterday I had to hammer on my fuel tank a little to fit new shocks. The stock shocks had hit and bent the lip so I feel like that's a design flaw from the packaging engineers. Thanks Jeep. Anyway. I looked around and couldn't find any info on replacement non-stock tanks in long wheelbase Comanches. I'd like to get something in there that is plastic so it'll last. My stock one has a distinct odor so I suspect there is an issue but I haven't checked it out much. I understand there are stock replacements readily available, but I'm not afraid to step outside the box. Can anyone point me to the biggest or best tank someone has already put under a long bed? Thank you.

Since this thread got dug up from the grave already, I'll weigh in. I just built my springs and used GM pads from Dorman #31067. They're round, but they're much thicker than the Jeep ones and come with soft rubber insulators that service a noise concern. Do they fit like stock? No. It took less than a minute of work with a knife for them to fit and I'm very pleased with the results. I'll need to wash more mud out of my springs after I wheel but I think that's a fine compromise. It cost me about $30.

If you want just tail light lenses - just the red and white part - PM me. I have a half decent set of lenses but no buckets, I.E. the black tail lamp housing. I was going to do some LED stuff but went in a different direction.

He must have slipped and put a 1 in front of that $300 truck.

You don't want to remove the trans cooler and plug the lines at the case, the AW4 won't like that. It will get very upset and spit all its parts into the pan or worse.

The missing steering stabilizer is a nice touch.

The AC compressor looked like it mounted exactly the same as my HO 4.0 in the Renix 2.5 I worked on this weekend. It might be worth a shot. Advance and Autozone take returns for any reason.

For anything below hardcore off roading, it's good. Minimum you need one of each of the items listed under the Grand Cherokee there to upgrade the tie rod across the axle, but it was way too cheap to not get the whole deal IMO. Those are all Moog part numbers if you like the Moog name better than Quick Steer. You can get the same kind of deal price wise on ebay if Rock Auto has changed their deals, search DS1312 and you'll see kits that have everything in one box.

If you put anything in your bed, you want that overload leaf.

If you just want beefier, I did the V8 ZJ upgrade for under $70. The drag link is the same size and strength but the ball joint on it is a little different, so I just got the XJ one to save on shipping but the tie rod across the axle is solid vs the piece of tin that came stock on every other coil spring Jeep before 99. The short tie rod end at the pitman arm is the same as the left wheel on the ZJ and a little beefier than the one at the left wheel on the XJ IMO. Quick Steer is the same as Duralast, I don't anticipate any issues with these Moog-made parts.

$29 on Amazon, I just got one at the junk yard for $6 but I want to keep it, not worth reselling it if it's just $29 new. Dorman 34171

In.

Matt is cool, his videos are as good as anybody's for non-mechanics on YouTube. He doesn't just feed you crap like some of the YouTube pros out there and he's funny.