schardein

4897227827806429 Good until 2 Oct.

try changing your oil. I had a bad Fram filter cause that very issue. and just for the heck of it you could use a thicker oil too. I've owned it for a couple years now, been through several oil changes. Always stuck with 10w-30 though. I did a google search and it actually seems like a somewhat common thing, although the only one I've personally come in contact with.

What makes it special is it has the transmisison shift indicator, with full gauges (minus tach), and a trip odometer. The only way to get a trip odometer with the blue font, only way to get full gauges with the shift indicator. At least as far as I know. I'll disassemble it when I get home and post pictures of any difference I see with the construction of the speedo.

Good info. I also have a collection of non-op starters.

Image Not Found Haha, yeah that would be a negative.

Yep - exactly what I would do. I've been looking for one of these clusters for years for just that reason. Nice score mate. :cheers: Thanks. Longer story-- after driving home one day I noticed my oil pressure idiot light flickering. Uh oh. Had the parts for the gauge swap but hadn't done it. Went ahead and got it done. After warming up oil pressure drops to zero on the gauge. It will climb when punching the gas. Obviously there is enough pressure to keep it running... when I bought the MJ it had "piston rattle" upon startup, which goes away after 2-10 seconds. However it also has the same noise when under acceleration. I'm afraid the engine (150,000 miles) has been abused at one time. The other day I scored a 93 XJ with a 96 motor swapped in. Got it from a co-worker for cheap. Got the motor running with about 2 hours work and it seems healthy. Also, it is 4wd, so now I have the final piece I needed for a future 4wd conversion (4wd transmission). Already have a hp d30 w/factory 3.73 gears and large axle u-joints, 242 tcase, and rear d44 w/ 3.07s that will be swapped for 3.73. This project is still a ways down the road as I am working a LS swap in my CJ7 and have a CJ5 down to the frame in front of it.

So is 1987 the only year for a matching tach? Would the plan be to also swap in the fuel gauge from the 1987 cluster?

1993. The XJ also had the skid plates (front, transfer, gas tank). ABS brakes (which means D35 rear axle), and what looked like the 28mm swaybar. I don't have my tools, so no calipers to actually measure. I scored a 28mm bar last week, and this XJ was wrecked pretty good in the front end, so I didn't grab it. Also had the mini console just for the tcase shifter (which I did grab) with shift pattern for a 242 (which I did not confirm, although the case was still there).

It's funny-- I just switched to the full cluster with the red font and tach. I'm glad to finally have a trip odometer to track mileage and full gauges. I could take or leave the tach especially since I lost my transmission shift indicator (the MJ is column shift). Now that I have this, I may install it to get my trans indicator back and still have gauges and trip odometer.

On vacation, went to the local junkyard and first XJ I looked at had a column shifter, tilt column with cruise and delay wipers. Also had the extended idle switch and certified speedometer. I grabbed the cluster and switch.

Factory? I forget where I saw this on the internet, maybe here at CC? I believe it was described as factory.

Don, for Highpower Rifle competition using an AR15 platform, there really are no drawbacks or advantages. The magazine release is on the right side, easily manipulated by a right handed shooter. The bolt release is on the left side, which requires a right handed shooter to reach over the rifle. If a left handed shooter has large enough hands, they can reach the mag release with the shooting hand thumb without breaking position and the bolt release on the left so easy day. The left handed shooter who taught me can perform mag changes faster than a right hander, without breaking position. If competing in the Match Rifle category using a bolt action rifle, there is definitely a challenge in the rapid fire stages, unless you are using a left handed bolt gun. During my years on the Team, I was supplied with a left handed bolt gun, so no issues there, although I only competed with it in long range matches where there are no rapid fire stages. For the Garand, it does take some practice. When loading the first clip for the rapid fire stage, the bolt is ridden home OVER the rounds so the chamber is empty. This requires pushing the rounds down with a finger while releasing the bolt and riding it home. This requires some practice to do with the left hand as the bolt release is on the right and your right hand is wrapped in the sling and grasping the fore end of the rifle. Shorter answer, no drawbacks with proper training, unless using a bolt gun that doesn't match the shooter for XTC (Across The Course) Highpower Rifle competitions, because of the rapid fire stages. Good stuff. The bold text above is what I was curious about. Mastering this technique has got to be painful at times during the learning process. Thanks for the explanation. :cheers: M1 thumb! Obviously you are familiar with the rifle. :thumbsup:

API 2610326504 Outer Tie Rod End; Severe Duty - FRONT RIGHT; Base Model [Wholesaler Closeout -- 30 Day Warranty] $4.96 Here's the same part for a good price. Probably not the same quality as the Moog. Rockauto.

True. Many competitors, myself included, use a blinder on the non-shooting eye, which among other things mitigates the distraction of the ejected cartridges for a left handed shooter.

Don, for Highpower Rifle competition using an AR15 platform, there really are no drawbacks or advantages. The magazine release is on the right side, easily manipulated by a right handed shooter. The bolt release is on the left side, which requires a right handed shooter to reach over the rifle. If a left handed shooter has large enough hands, they can reach the mag release with the shooting hand thumb without breaking position and the bolt release on the left so easy day. The left handed shooter who taught me can perform mag changes faster than a right hander, without breaking position. If competing in the Match Rifle category using a bolt action rifle, there is definitely a challenge in the rapid fire stages, unless you are using a left handed bolt gun. During my years on the Team, I was supplied with a left handed bolt gun, so no issues there, although I only competed with it in long range matches where there are no rapid fire stages. For the Garand, it does take some practice. When loading the first clip for the rapid fire stage, the bolt is ridden home OVER the rounds so the chamber is empty. This requires pushing the rounds down with a finger while releasing the bolt and riding it home. This requires some practice to do with the left hand as the bolt release is on the right and your right hand is wrapped in the sling and grasping the fore end of the rifle. Shorter answer, no drawbacks with proper training, unless using a bolt gun that doesn't match the shooter for XTC (Across The Course) Highpower Rifle competitions, because of the rapid fire stages.

I just got home from the National Rifle Championships in Camp Perry, Ohio. I went to see the Marines of the United States Marine Corps Rifle Team. They had an incredible showing this year, even by their standards. They won the Infantry Team Trophy Match for the second year in a row, and with a very good score. The Dogs of War is considered the most prestigious Match at Camp Perry, and is a 6 man Team Match. We came in second this year, but during the Match one of the Marines fired a 500-15x. This is out of a possible 500. Think about that for a minute. 50 shots, 50 chances to make one mistake. Incredible. As the former SNCOIC of the Team, it made my heart swell to see their outstanding performance. I fired the M1 Garand Match, which is very popular and a lot of fun.

Glad you made it home safe and under your own power. I've owned several XJs and my one MJ, and I've been skeptical of claims of HO trucks getting over 20 mpg. I just got home from a 1300+ miles trip (Missouri to Camp Perry, Ohio for the National Rifle Championships) and averaged 21.6 mpg in my 91 XJ.

Assuming you plan to completely disassemble the seats: I can't help with the tilt problem, but after you take the headrests off, you have the two plastic sleeves that they slide into. When I tried to remove these by pulling up on them, I ended up breaking the tabs on the bottom of them. I suggest loosening the upholstery from the bottom (of the seat back), then reaching one hand/arm up inside the seat, and pinching the tabs with your fingers, while lifting up on the sleeve from the outside with your other hand. This way I didn't break the tabs. The tabs are pretty stiff, and I didn't have the hand strength, so I used a small set of channel lock pliers. Squeeze gently until you can get the sleeve to pop loose, otherwise you'll break the tabs anyway. It's a small thing, but I had to go back to the junkyard to get replacement sleeves after three of my four broke had broken tabs from strong arming them from the top.

It's been a while since I messed with one, but I think the antenna must be taken off first, then there is a large nut that must be removed, freeing the antenna base (the plastic bezel) and the actual antenna base that connects to the line going to the stereo. The nut sometimes has two flats that you can get a crescent wrench on, other times it is a special fitting. I'm sure there is a specialized socket for it, I just use some good channel pliers, careful not to scar it up if it will be reused.

I never notice the clutch fan on my 91 XJ or 91 MJ. I generally do not even notice the electric fan when it kicks on, until I park and get out with the engine still running, then it's noticeable. Is your fan belt tight? Engine oil level correct? No damage to exhaust system? I've had all of these contribute to an overheating situation (along with a bad fan clutch, dry rotted radiator from salt air) and might be worth double checking before replacing a water pump.

Back when I had a Renix Wagoneer, replacing that entire assembly was money well spent, rather than trying to repair it a piece at a time.

The Renix experts will probably chime in, but I believe that is the main crankcase vent hose, and is only available as an assembly that includes other hoses. There are two halves to the assembly, and that side would be considered the engine side. The junction of the two halves is near the front of the intake manifold.

Why not just replace it with one from another 97+ XJ? Late model XJs are readily available in the salvage yards.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/321616166167?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2648&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT I've used this stuff. I started out with one small bottle, then bought six, then got 16 gallons. I have used it on cast iron pans, nuts and bolts, drum brake backing plates, all sorts of metal brackets. I've used it on old rusty tools and they come out looking like new. I haven't taken any pictures, but this stuff is amazing. I did some research and this stuff seems to be inexpensive compared to other similar products. Haven't tried other products so can't comment on whether one of them "lasts" longer. I have a bead blast cabinet, a large bench grinder with wire wheels, an angle grinder with a wire cup brush, and this stuff in a big plastic tote/container. Each have there place for rust removal, but it sure is nice to just drop a part in the tub and come back the next day to a rust free part. The link is for a 16 gal but they sell it in smaller quantities.