schardein

A friend of mine had an 87 YJ, completely stock. Said it made funny noises, handled funny, and the rear end leaked. I figured it needed replaced, and found a good D35 for cheap with the right ratio. I didn't diagnose it at all beforehand. When we pulled it out, the diff housing itself was cracked, and the driver side axle tube was loose. He'd been driving it like that for about a year. This guy isn't a four wheeler, we figure the previous owner must have caused the damage. Doesn't really answer your question, but cool story, right? I've heard some people say the D35 can break while parked in the driveway overnight. Simple rear end swap is a 1986 factory AMC20 or 87-? factory Dana 44, both are rare. Next easiest might be a factory option Dana 44 out of a Cherokee (XJ)(also rare). The spring pads must be cut off the top of the axle and put on the bottom. Next might be the Chrysler 8.25 axle out of an XJ, same thing, must move the axle pads.

A little. I just had the axle shaft out about a year ago to change the axle shaft u-joint. It just spit out a cap, and bent an ear on the outer stub shaft. Interesting side note- I run a Detroit Locker in the front. Since it's a CJ, I can unlock the hubs on the street, so no issue there. But when off road in 4wd, it's always locked. I just did the Rubicon Trail, and a lot of the time you are driving over solid rock, so it's just like driving on the street (high traction). It spit out a cap on the driver side last year, so I put in a new stub and replaced the u-joints on both sides. Now this one. I didn't notice until a few weeks after the trip, but the damage almost had to happen on the trail. I think the answer is a front selectable locker, so I can remain unlocked until needed, preventing unnecessary stress in high traction situations most of the time. I thought I was being budget smart in my choice (Detroit $500-$600, selectable $900-$1200). Live and learn. I run a cable operated Ox locker in the rear axle.

Made from a washer from the parts bin and a steel rod that was in the workshop when I moved in five years ago. It was next to the wood furnace, I think the previous owners used it as a log poker. About 1/2" diameter, and i think the washer was a 3/8" ID. Don't know what the original app was for the washer, but it fit the axle tube ID perfectly. Ground the tip of the rod down to fit the washer, then quick weld and cut. Works great.

Tool for cleaning/scraping out the axle tube. Pic is the front D44 on my CJ7.

I mentioned it mainly so you could confirm that the battery you currently have would work in a (possibly) smaller tray. One could assume that the factory battery changed size when the change was made, but like you said, it may have simply been they realized it was larger than it needed to be. If they were redesigning for the temp sensor, why not save some room (and money) by making it smaller.

FYI, there are different size battery trays. To the best of my knowledge, the older ones (up to 96) are slightly longer, measuring about 7.5" by 10.5". The later 96 and up trays with the battery sensor are 7.5" by 9.5". The larger tray is #52002092 while the newer, smaller tray is #55235294. They use the same hold down hardware. I don't know enough about battery sizes to know if the small difference could cause a factory application battery to not fit a later tray. I've read an article about putting a larger alternator on the older 4.0, and it mentions the possibility of having to trim the battery tray. Likely, the later tray would not require that. In the pics below, you can see the difference looking at the left side of each tray. (driver side as they are installed).

There is a reason everyone is jumping in that box. Not following the crowd so as to be different, doesn't mean the crowd is wrong. I pulled the 4.0HO from my CJ7 to put in a 5.3 LM7. I expected a lot, but results still exceeded my expectations. I have a 1980 CJ5 that I intended to put the 4.0HO in. After all, it had been in the CJ7 for 16 years, all issues had been sorted out in the first year and had proven reliable. Instead, I have another 5.3 sitting in the workshop now.

I found mine stuffed in the springs underneath the pass side seat.

Added to my search list. Have to say, I don't think I've ever seen one. Even chrome bumpers for those years, I don't think I've ever seen. I used to own a 1989 XJ Wagoneer (black & woodgrain). It had a similar chrome trim piece above the license plate, I believe it said "Wagoneer" on it. It was missing when i bought it, and it was a great day when I found one. How is it mounted on the hatchback? Double sided tape, or mounting studs that go through drilled holes, or ? Picture of your spare might be helpful to see how to remove it without damage.

Did you read my post right above yours? I spun the odometer of an electronic speedometer with a scavenged gear in an electric drill. It did not damage it.

I always wondered what the original application was for those assemblies. Edit: As a side note, Jeeps with the D18 transfer case used transfer case mounted parking brakes into the late 60s.

Here is 25' of brake line and 8' of stainless gravel guard for $40 https://www.ebay.com/itm/25-3-16-Copper-Nickel-Roll-with-45-fittings-8-ft-of-stainless-Gravel-Guard/262484945116?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 Here is the same thing as the Wilwood valve, but cheaper: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g3906 Or retain your factory combination valve and use this somewhere in the rear line: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g3905?rrec=true I converted a K5 Blazer with a 14 bolt (1 ton) rear end to disc brakes back around 1997. I used a Summit inline adjustable valve similar to the one above. It lists a reduction of 57%. I had to turn it nearly all the way down to balance the brakes, that is how much more effective the disc brakes were. I think you have a good plan. I think it's a good idea to use the gravel guard, especially on the hard lines on the rear axle. I haven't worked with the cunifer line yet, but if it is softer than factory steel line, the gravel guard becomes even more desirable. I plan to convert my XJ and MJ to dual diaphragm someday, and have 1996 XJ boosters on standby. I've read both those and the WJ ones work. My "problem" with rear disc brake conversions is they often have no parking brake, or the installation doesn't result in a functioning parking brake. My opinion is this is hack. You should have a functioning parking brake. On the K5 Blazer, I used the Cadillac Eldorado calipers, back when they were very difficult to find, and very expensive if you didn't have cores (I found rusted beyond use cores in the junkyard that saved me hundreds in core charges). But they worked. I had custom parking brake cables made and it worked good. Now the calipers are available new from Ruffstuff, oops, looks like they are out of stock. https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/R2262-A.html Drum brakes are a very effective parking brake. Unless you are doing a lot of deep mud and/or water crossings (which can quickly destroy drum brakes) I think most people are better off with their stock rear drum brakes. Those mini drum brakes inside the disc rotor don't seem to work well in my limited experience. My 2001 Silverado 2500HD has that setup, and the parking brake sucks. I'd be interested to hear other people's experience with there effectiveness. It sounds like you are experiencing the same thing (I think the 8.8 uses that setup, correct?). You need the flexible hose going to the caliper, to allow it to move (self adjust), but I wouldn't worry about stainless braided hose. If there was a standard rubber hose available that fits the application, I would use that. Probably be cheaper, and easily available as long as you keep a record of the part number.

I could post some pics. Interesting idea on the video.

Interesting that this diagram shows the coin tray (#8) as a separate part. I've had mini consoles where that was the case, and also where it was one molded piece with the rest of the console. I've also seen long and short mini consoles, and someone here at CC explained the difference, but I can't remember what it is.

The window switch in my 91 XJ (driver door) is starting to go, it works intermittently. I got a replacement from the junkyard (from the pass side, less used) but haven't installed it yet. I have a 93 parts XJ that had aftermarket power windows. They did look different than Strokermjcomanche's photo. Also, his photo shows black switches. Not sure if they have been painted, but they were also available in chrome. I think in later model XJs they were black.

I've reset the odometer on 91-96 speedometers. You have to sacrifice a speedometer and pull out a small metal shaft with a plastic drive gear on it. Put that in an electric drill. Then lay the speedometer you want to adjust on a folded shop towel. Lay the drill next to it on a folded shop towel, so that the two gears mesh. Turn the drill on. Check periodically. Helps if the replacement speedo's odometer is close to your desired mileage. Also helps if the drill is variable speed so you can go slower than full speed.

I will second Lake Tahoe. I just got back from Lake Tahoe and running the Rubicon Trail. It was an epic trip. It really is beautiful there. The trip was made better because my brother joined me there, and he lived and worked in Tahoe when he first graduated from Culinary School.

This makes me sick to my stomach. Sometimes, violence IS the answer.

Also, I had a friend who special ordered a 1997 Jeep Cherokee. He requested front and rear tow hooks and a receiver hitch. It came with a tow hook bolted to the rear receiver hitch, designed like the picture. Only one I've ever seen like it.

What MJXJJeepguy said. And I agree, the hook pointing down isn't the best design. Although adding tow hook clips would help retain a strap or winch line.

I ran out of time, was only in town for the day. And I did get free entry at the second U Pull!

I've talked with Pete, and I think he is planning to stop at my place in Success, MO, on 1 Sept. The more the merrier, so anyone who would like to come is invited. I'm retired after 30 years in the Marine Corps, and live on 30 acres in the Ozarks. I have a large workshop where we could hang out and talk Jeeps, and a small collection of Jeep CJ/XJ/MJ parts. I've got plenty of room for parking. Overnight guests are fine also, but I only have two rooms, one reserved for Pete if he decides to spend the night. There are campgrounds in the Paddy Creek Wilderness of the Mark Twain National Forest only about 30 minutes from my house (primitive camping on a river/stream, bathrooms only, no water/electric). I don't know how full they get during holidays though. Or feel free to pitch a tent on my property. I plan to fire up the grill for lunch/dinner (depending on Pete's schedule) and we could have a small bonfire behind the shop later if we wanted. I have a small (500 feet?) off road course in my woods and I can shoot out to 200 yards. I'm not a big drinker anymore, but hold no rules against it, other than shooting and alcohol don't mix. Pets are ok but not in the house. I have two cats that will hide when strangers appear. If interested, post here, and I will PM my info.

My standard vacation for the last 5 years or so consist of an off road trip with stops at junkyards on the trip to and from. I really enjoy it. I've noticed the number of Jeep XJs in junkyards on the east coast steadily declining over the last 10 years. There were so many in Sparks, NV, that I couldn't look at them all. And they are mostly rust free. Found this in Salt Lake, it was for sale complete:

LKQ Pick Your Part, 6100 North Federal Blvd, Denver U Pull & Pay, 390 W 66th Way, Denver U Pull & Pay, 1370 Zeno St, Aurora Still processing the whole trip. I will say this: I attended the Jeep Jamboree USA Rubicon Trip. It was truly epic, they have a helicopter that brings in a piano so you have live music while eating your ribeye dinner on Saturday at Rubicon Springs. But, their rules state that Jeeps older than 97 are not permitted to register without prior approval. I guess I'm a rebel, and registered my 83, didn't call, just showed up. They were not happy. Quizzed my about my driving experience and Jeep details. Funny thing, I probably have more off road driving and instructing experience than most, if not all, the trail guides. They grudgingly "allowed" me to participate, and I had zero issues, while numerous "newer/better" Jeeps experienced breakage and/or required recovery. Still it was a great trip, the scenery was awe inspiring.

So I just completed an epic trip from MO to Lake Tahoe, and ran the Rubicon Trail in my CJ. During the trip, I stopped at 7 junkyards (3 in Denver, 2 in Salt Lake, 1 in Sparks, and 1 in Lincoln). I have a box full of stuff, but this is some of the coolest. I found an 89 2 dr XJ, 4wd 5 speed with full factory skid plating and tow hooks. It also had a 28mm front anti sway bar, and the longer rear leaf spring bump stops. Not only did it have the front tow hooks, it also had the factory rear tow hook, a rare item I've never found before. I pulled the fuel tank skid plate, and on a whim, pulled the transfer case skid plate. I've seen transfer case skid plates before, but the mounting bolts were always seized to the thread inserts, causing the inserts to spin and the bolts to not come out. This is the first one I've been able to remove. I know, mostly XJ parts, but I thought this was a cool find.