schardein

If you decide to open up the hole and use the parts you have, here is a measurement to shoot for.

That valve cover is an older version (91-93, maybe?) of the metal cover, probably part number 53008559. The crankcase vent tube fitting you need goes in and secures with a 1/4 twist. I sometimes have used ones, but not at the moment. I have researched this before and found several part numbers- 53030591, 53009243, 53030497. I haven't bought these, so can't promise they are right. Here are some links: https://www.quadratec.com/p/crown-automotive/pcv-elbow-jeep-wrangler-yj-cherokee-xj-and-comanche-mj?gclid=CjwKCAjwgZCoBhBnEiwAz35Rwi-SG1lT43P709LCYsDkRQKQ0k3LqVncSM9dtKAE7yfA4xKTdSVD_BoC04kQAvD_BwE https://www.amazon.com/Crown-Automotive-53030591-Emission-Elbow/dp/B00SFUJRKG

Going through some old hard copy photographs. This is a poor picture of the 454 in my K5 Blazer after a day of off roading. What's that in the background?! Funny, I have no memory of a neighbor owning an MJ. But, I wasn't really into them yet, picked up my first XJ about a year later, a 1989 XJ Wagoneer.

This won't help, but I have a spare XJ steering column that I use to test wiper delay modules and wiper motors. I have it set up so I just connect my 12v power source to a set of pigtails, then I have different adapter pigtails so I can test the three different XJ wiper motors, as well as CJ, YJ, TJ etc.

I have these, $15 shipped. No brackets at the moment.

I have the black under column trim piece, relay cover w/clips, & battery T bolts.

Hahaha One strategy is to hang them on the wall!

I can appreciate that situation. Collecting parts to sell can be a slippery slope to end up being a hoarder anyway LOL. Perhaps your best course would be just to pull parts if someone has offered to buy. But be careful, I've had a few situations where someone offered to buy but backed out after I got the part. Small parts like the emblems would be easy to pull and store.

Ashtrays in the rear door panels? Not sure I've ever seen those before. The chrome front and rear bumpers, if good, would be something someone would eventually buy. Also, if that's a factory hitch, it might be worth grabbing- but also the factory nut plates that hold the hitch on. The nut plates are inside the unibody channel, and you have to pull the rear bumper, and the hitch, to get them out. You can tell if it has them because the hitch will be held on with bolts. If there are studs sticking out of the unibody, and the hitch is held on with nuts, then those are carriage bolts and steel plates in there that have to be fished in. Reproduction hitch nut plates go for $40-$100 a pair and work on XJs all the way to 2001. Also, if that's a factory hitch, it may have the factory trailer wiring adapter. It is a plug and play deal. The connectors are behind the rear quarter panel, behind the spare tire. There will be a relay pack, often covered in a padded jute or foam wrap. The harness will run through a rubber grommet in the lower inner fender body panel to the trailer plug. Even if the 7 way trailer plug is trashed, a newer one can be spliced on, the trick method is to get a late model Chrysler/Jeep 7 way plug that has a weather shielded harness plug in on the back side and splice that in. Then the trailer connector itself can be easily replaced if it is damaged. The only thing is the connectors on the adapters changed over the years, so it may only work on those very early models, which limits the selling market somewhat.

Those "4 wheel drive" nameplates (55005317) on the rear quarter are a rare part. Later ones were "4x4", then around 93 they became just a sticker. Hard to tell from the lighting, are the spokes on the steering wheel black? Or bare stainless? Black spokes was an early rare option. Either way, leather covered steering wheels are always worth grabbing if the leather is in good shape.

Yep, early ones are steel. Later ones are plastic.

I'm not sure if the trucks were pre-wired for power antennas. These might help with the fuse/breaker locations. Last pic is my 91 XJ with power everything. Not sure if it is exactly the same as the earlier models.

Team Cherokee website used to have these NOS for a good price. I just looked and don't see them. I stopped grabbing them at yards because I couldn't compete with Team Cherokee's price. It might be time to start getting them again.

makes sense

You're welcome and yes that can be a tight fit

You can tap into the fuse box for the power wire. You probably have two options, see pic. The IGN should be hot with key on, and the ACC should be hot with key in the RUN or ACC position. You can tap into these ports with a simple 1/4" wide male spade connector. Or, if you can do it like the factory did, using a plastic connector that is keyed to the specific location and locks in place so it can't be accidentally pulled out. Here is a source for the plastic connectors and terminals. The IGN port uses a brown connector, and the ACC port uses a green connector. https://www.ebay.com/itm/333919030216?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=bpFa1QANQb2&sssrc=2380676&ssuid=bpFa1QANQb2&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

I mounted the temp probe behind the front bumper using an existing screw. Seems to be fairly accurate.

Is that on a 91? I ask because my 91 is not pre-wired for the cargo light. I recall researching it, and I think the consensus was they stopped pre-wiring them for the cargo light around 1990.

Nice, I thought they might.

I was wondering about that. I haven't seen many black interiors, and certainly known as complete as this. The only thing missing in the entire interior was the horn button from the steering wheel. I've seen a few of these types of steering wheels and the button matches the color/texture of the steering wheel. Then I've seen some full size Jeep steering wheels that look similar but with a different horn button (pic). I was wondering if the buttons interchanged.

Found an 87 XJ with a black interior. This kind of find is the reason I love going to junkyards. Interior was near mint, everything there. Even had the factory zip up spare tire cover on the original spare tire, dated 1986.

I see ads on FB slamming Rancho shocks. I put brand new Rancho 2.5" lift springs and RS9000 adjustable shocks on my CJ7 back in 1998. It rode and flexed great, comparable to the Old Man Emu YJ swap that gets so many raves now, except it was a much easier install and cheaper to boot. I've now switched to OME springs, and they flex slightly better, but the ride isn't any better. The Rancho CJ springs were excellent. I still run Rancho 9000 shocks. Rancho also used to make a 1" lift replacement spring for early CJ5s (55-71) and, I believe, flat fender Jeeps. They no longer make them, which is to bad. I see wanted ads every once in a while, people are still looking for them. I have a set on my 67 CJ5. These days, if someone asks about CJ suspension, Rancho doesn't even come up. But I don't know if the quality of a spring today will match what it was 25-30 years ago, even from the same company. They are resellers, they don't manufacture springs, and their supplier has probably changed over the decades. It also reminds me of Smittybilt, which used to be a respected company. They mainly produced one piece, completely welded roll bars (also tube bumpers, cage kits, tow bars, etc). You could get a roll bar with a triple main hoop and double down tubes for full size trucks. Yeah it was an 80s thing, but they were well made. I had a catalog back in the 80s and wish I still had it, to see if they had applications for Comanches. I put a double/single Smittybilt roll bar in my 78 Chevy back in 1986. These days, I'm not sure if Smittybilt is still considered a top tier company.

Obvious problems should be addressed first As for checking vacuum, you want manifold vacuum, not ported vacuum. Ported vacuum will be any vacuum ports on the throttle body itself, near the area of the throttle blade. Manifold vacuum (not to be obvious) is anywhere on the intake manifold after the throttle blade. The vacuum booster is manifold vacuum. Not sure what that T-fitting is, but it is probably manifold vacuum. Just a suggestion, add your Comanche's year, engine, trans to the signature line of your profile-- that way people who want to help, don't have to ask questions first.

A very easy test for a failing vacuum booster, straight from a google search: "To perform an easy test, turn off the car and pump the brakes 4-5 times until the brake pedal stiffens up. Then, push down the pedal and start the car. Check for a slight give underfoot. If the brake pedal stays stiff without giving slightly, the brake booster may be failing." Another simple thing to check is the one way check valve in the booster. The one way check valve is what the thick vacuum line attaches to on the booster. Twist/pull the vacuum line from the check valve. Twist/pull the check valve out of the rubber grommet in the brake booster. Now that you have the check valve in your hand, put the part that the vacuum hose attaches to in your mouth, and suck- air should pass freely. Then blow- the valve should seal and no air should pass. Then wipe it off (so you don't get your nasty germs on the Jeep ) and reinstall, or replace if bad. You can also check to see if the thick vacuum line has become disconnected at either end, or has any cuts or holes. Check that the engine is in a good state of tune so it produces the normal amount of vacuum. If you have a vacuum gauge, look for a steady reading of 18-20 inches at idle. Have you had your front bumper off lately? Don't forget to hook up the vacuum line to the vacuum reservoir on the passenger side / back side of the bumper (round or football shaped plastic reservoir). Does your HVAC seem to only blow out the defrost? That is a symptom of a disconnected vacuum line, or faulty/leaky reservoir. Good luck and keep us posted.

This is interesting because this year has been beyond anything I've seen in the 9 years I've lived here. I have killed dozens of mud dauber wasps in my house garage this year. Just this morning, I went into the garage, grabbed my swatter, and opened the garage bay door. In flew two wasps like they were just waiting for me to open the door. I've gotten pretty good with a swatter and got both of them, one while it was flying. This has been happening most of the summer. However, I haven't been stung once this year. I was stung 3 times last year, once was on my ear and another the back of my neck. At my age it takes several days for the ache to go away. I don't have any advice on how to get rid of them. I've been waging a war of attrition with the swatter and it seems to have helped. I've killed 8-10 in a day, but that also involves standing around in the garage for an hour. EDIT: this year has been especially hot, I don't know if that has anything to do with it. Also, last year was a "mast" year here. If you aren't familiar, that is when all the trees of certain species produce an inordinately large amount of fruits or nuts. No idea if that might be related.