jpnjim

A thin flathead screwdriver can fit between the gate & bed (inserted from the backside the tailgate), and push in the latch. If both sides are hung up, you'd need two screwdrivers to push & hold each latch in, while applying force to open the tailgate. If the latches won't budge like this, soak with penetrating oil & try again.

:cheers: Now we need some pics. :yes: Welcome to CC.

:cheers:

XJs were all coil sprung HP till the last year or so when they went LP. ZJs&TJs were all LP coil spring And YJs were all HP leaf spring w/ axle discons. Easy to remember, AMC introduced Jeeps (XJ&YJ) = HP Chrysler introduced Jeeps (ZJ,TJ&WJ) = LP

POR-15 to POR-15 actually cures with moisture, and looks more like powdercoating than paint when done. It can also peel off like powdercoating if it's not applied right (and sometimes even when it is applied right :( ) But it's hard as nails, and looks smooth when done. Goodluck with what you got from NAPA, hopefully it's similar.

Wasn't for the Japanese, they had been using it for over ten years. MPI in 1977? Bosch, Bendix & Rochester injected cars go back to the 1950's, but multiport, as in a separate fuel injector for each cylinder was still new in 1987. The first Multiport Injection I can remember was the TPI Chevy's in 1985, for Corvettes, Camaro's & Firechickens, then the Mustangs got Sequential Fuel Injection in 1986. I can remember Bosch injected VW's in the early 1980's, but I don't think they used separate fuel injectors like the Jeeps, Chevy's & Mustangs were using by the mid 1980's.

100% possible and has crossed our mind. However if that was the case I'd like to know why we never got a lot of the items we had on order with them 5-6 months prior to them filing bankruptcy when we placed stocking orders due to them being on "backorder". For instance we had some SYE kits on order with them (about 30) prior, even before Christmas. Never got them. We just took delivery of over 100 of them this week. If they had them in stock prior to the buyout why didn't we ever get them? Your guess is as good as ours; however it looks like only time will tell.... I'll remain cautiously optimistic. IMHO, I think they will, more than likely, cut some corners eventually, and ship some production overseas. Tho hopefully now that things are back up and running, they will see a ton of demand for parts, and decide not to mess with a successful product (I'm still not sure why RE failed as a company, but it wasn't due to lack of demand for their products). Either way, good luck, & I hope this is a good sign. :cheers: :USAflag:

Renix engines have to turn a couple revolutions to compute the CPS sensor location. That alone shouldn't cause the long crank time, but Multiport Fuel Injection was new technology when the 4.0L was introduced, look around for other 1987 MPI engines, it's a pretty short list. Long crank time was just one of the bugs that didn't get worked out till they redesigned the engine controller in 91.

For- Effffing- Ever. :doh: 1989 with new CPS

you mean like: http://boston.craigslist.org/sob/cto/2483252466.html compared to: http://boston.craigslist.org/bmw/cto/2483199221.html

Anyone ever consider doing the Pioneer stripe in a single color, and having the center made solid: from: to (really bad quickie chop) Pic borrowed from CC'er autographixdesign's Ebay auction: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MJ-JEEP- ... 588db2b3c9 The idea's been bouncing around in my head for a while, not sure when I would ever get to taking care of the body on 'Grandpa' but I'm thinking a solid Pioneer stripe, understated in flat black, on the gloss black body. :yes: I don't even know if Spencer would do something like this, just wondering what you guys thought.

Looks like there wasn't a ton of thread engagement, judging from where the heim threads look more worn anyway (shiny part): My question would be was the track bar engaged up to the worn part, or the track bar + jam nut to that point? Either way, it shouldn't have happened, biggest question is was it Rockrawler's fault, RK + your own fault, or all your own fault? If the nut was loose when you last cranked it, the threads could have already been junk by then, and cranking it just made them give out sooner. Either way, take a breath, be thankful you're still here to post this, and hopefully you can figure out what went wrong. BTW, I'm no fan of RK.

Different manufacturer, but I've seen Skyjacker Heim joint LCA's where the threads just pulled right out. The threads wore off the heims some, but the inside of the arms (where the threads were) was smooth. Post up some pics, I'm curious what yours looks like myself. PS, glad your not dead.

:yes:

Too bad it's out of stock, I'd hit the nearest Jeep dealer, and fill the back of the MJ with NOS Bumpers: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detai ... yword=121g also helpfull: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detai ... ord=121gmf

Thanks guys! Keep the info coming if anyone has anything else to add. I'll order the bigger one, and figure I may have to tweak the mount a bit, I'm just hoping they still come with the pulley.

Looks like there are two case sizes for replacement renix alternators: 130mm (5 1/8 in.) Diameter Case 121mm (4 3/4 in.) Diameter Case Small case alts seem to be the 61a versions, large case either 85a, or 100a. Questions, were both sizes original equipment on Renix 4.0L's? is there a specific mount bracket for the 130mm vs 121mm, or will either alternator fit either mount? Simple questions, I know, but the last time I bought a new Renix alternator, they were an on the shelf item for a 5-6 year old vehicle. Now they are special order parts for 20 year old dinosaurs, and I don't want to order the wrong one. :doh:

Of the 4.0L's, only the 1987-90 Renix engines have that knock sensor. Basically, the computer is set up with a more aggressive timing curve than the later HO's, and it uses the knock sensor to tell it when to retard the timing. That said, I've run Renix 4.0L's with the knock sensor, and did not experience the hesitation you have.

That's "Quagmire" It was a bad azz mudder, 15+ years ago. I remember being impressed by it, back then. But the goalposts have moved pretty far since the 1990's.

Adds 17.25 hp. :wrench:

Interesting build. :thumbsup: :cheers:

You better have a time machine if you want to see that one :D ;) I have the trail MJ in my sig now, but it's currently off the road waiting for me to get off my @ss an finish it.

I kept the buckets, and plopped a kid size race seat in the middle:

Pics: The two tanks faded from red to pink pretty fast :doh: not fancy, but they did fit nicely next to the wheel well: and the big azz cooler plopped right on top. :D edit, I couldn't find any underhood pics of that old MJ.

I put a Sanden from an XJ in the cradle, and ran OBA with it for a bunch of years with no issues. For a filter, the AC inlet fitting on my compressor was the same thread as an XJ oil filter (Metric one), so I cut open a window in the side of an XJ oil filter, and used that as my air filter. For the output, I used a portion of the AC line, with a flexible air line clamped onto it. A simple electric pressure switch was used to cycle the compressor, and ran lines to air tanks in the bed. For air tanks, I used a pair of those cheapie portable air tanks you can get at K-Mart. Mounted them in the bed, fit perfect under the ice cooler rack. I drilled a hole next to the fuel fill, behind the fuel door, and put the quick release air output there, so it wouldn't get packed with mud. Kinda cool to flip open the fuel filler door to plug in the air hose after wheeling. Also, it's centrally located, so the hose doesn't have to be as long to hit all 4 tires. Last thing I did was put an on/off valve between the compressor, and the tanks, incase I needed a quick shot of air, and didn't want to wait for the tanks to fill up. Only real problem I ever had with it was I would burn up the flexible lines I ran under the hood, temperature would kill the cheap home depot hose (I had to bring a spare piece wheeling till I sorted out the problem). Eventually I cut up some heavy duty air hoses I got off a service station that was closing down. Don't know the brand, but they took the heat no sweat. Last thing, I found a use for that horrible Slick-50 oil treatment stuff, with teflon. Once a year I would run some through the compressor, and collect it on the output side. I don't know how much it really helped, but I figured the Teflon couldn't hurt, and it made me fell better about running it without lube. Either way, I ran that thing dry for 5-6 years, and it held up just fine.